I was looking at the MHX blanks and noticed all the different types, like mag bass, popping, etc. Should I be worried about those names or just pick the right power and action? Also, when you do a custom build, how do you know what size reel seat and winding checks to buy? Do you order a blank, measure, then order the components? Or is there some sort of standard thing I should know about? I know i'll need to order a dryer also, what rpm is best? I saw a kit that included a 9 RPM drying motor, how well will that work for drying AND applying epoxy? Also, is color preserver a must? I'm thinking if they make color preserver, it's probably a good idea. Also, I read that Fuji's ACS reel seat is self arboring, what does that tell me on how to put it on? Which brings up my next point, exposed blank reel seats, ACS/ECS, how do I make sure it's the right size for the right spot on the blank to ensure there is no gap between the reel seat and the blank?

Also, what kind of stickers can you use under epoxy, to bascally state power, action, etc. and add a logo?

Me = confused.

Thanks for all your help!

Yes power & action will get you close but if you click the model it will show intended uses .

look for the MHX winding check & seat sizes on the Mudhole Mhx Page for your Blank sizes to know what seat size to get.

9- 16 RPM will work good for a dryer.

The Mhx blank comes with a "decal" with length action & serial #...

I'm not going to touch on the Fuji seat or CP.

DVT should be along shortly.

BTW, if you spend $100 Friday you will get free shipping. I'm not sure if that includes Blanks or not.

Power & action are primary for the blank. I like to tape the reel to the blank and move it around to get close to a good balance point, then measure with a micrometer where the reel seat goes and order the right fit. ACS reel seats are not really "self arboring". What they mean is that instead of the inside of the seat being smooth throughout, they cut grooves to make it easier to ream out the seat for a perfect fit. I don't like reaming seats when the blank is exposed, better to get the exact seat if you can (JMO). Color Preserver is a little misleading. Modern wrapping thread doesn't need to be protected from bleeding and reacting to epoxy like older dyed silk treads from many years ago. A lot of builders use CP as a first coat to get air out of the thread that might cause bubbles in the final coat of epoxy. I use a light build epoxy thinned with a little acetone for this purpose, but CP works well too. It is not at all mandatory. Getting hard winding checks (aluminum or stainless)and real seats to fit 'perfectly' is a bit of a challenge. I would recommend on your first few builds to use rubber winding checks and the recommended seat for your blank. After you have built a couple of rods, it will be obvious what corrections you want to make. Get a copy of Tom Kirkman's (google it) rod building book, it will answer most of your questions. I hope this is helpful.

Ronnie

The MHX are great blanks. Personally, I'm more concerned with grip length and size than with balance point so I know where the seat will go when I order a blank. If you tell mudhole the info They'll pull the right size seat. They'll also recommend blanks if you tell then what you want to do with it. My recommendation would be to wait to see how you like it before investing in a lot of equipment. Turning by hand gives you a lot of insight into how epoxy behaves too. Alpster's right on the winding checks. Color Preserver (CP) is not mandatory. I depends on the look you're going for. You can accomplish nearly the same goal using NCP (colorfast) thread as using regular thread with CP. Regular thread w/o CP will go translucent which is cool sometimes. Many blanks including the MHX come with decals. Mudhole is having a rod building class in Raleigh in Feb.That's about 3hrs from you. A little guidance goes a long ways and the supplies and components are all included. You'll want a couple under your belt anyway before you build a real keeper. Get Tom Kirkmans book and read up here: http://rodbuilding.org/list.php?2

At first you may get more confused as we each have our own way of doing many things. We do agree for the most part on the basic best practices though.