fishingdanderson

Here's another

Here are some of my most recent completed spinnerbaits. Let me know what you think.

I would put the hook pocket on the top like the old Culprit Jerk worms. Dan

I agree for the most part with cory n. There are just a couple things to think about. The powder paint is great but hard to paintpatterns with. If you are just going to paint one color on each bait than that is probably the easiest. If you are going to get real creative buy an airbrush. If you are going to get creative but want to handpaint go with vinyl. It is just as durable as paowder paint but takes longer to cure. In the long run the airbrush is the cheapest way to go. The other thing to consider is the swivels. Yes ball bearing swivels are the best as far as eace of turn and strength, but what difference does that make most of the time. I'll probably get blasted for this but the blades are only going to turn as fast as we reel the bait in anyway. The roller swivels are a great alternative. The are close to a ball bearing swivel in performance but not near the cost. I think sometimes we buy into the hype that manufacturers are putting out there. If the fish hit the blade I would be the first to use a ball bearing swivel, but they don't so I guess I just don't see the point. I'm sure there is one in certain instances. That's just my opinion. Probably not worth much. Dan

Thanks guys. I had two seperate tube do the same thing. This is my first time to use it so I didn't know if there was something I wasn't supposed to do(lighting, heat, etc.). they were both labeled 30 min 2 ton. If they had a whole lot messed up at Walmart I guess it's possible that they were labeled wrong. The only other thing would be if it was reacting with the little plastic dixie cup I was using to mis it up in. It got so hot it melted the cup and was smoking. I always used the vinyl clearcoat before which is durable but reacts with soft plastics eventually. The stuff was rock hard in 4 to 5 minutes. I know that sounds like 5 min epoxy but that means that 2 of them were labeled wrong. I have one of those adustable desk lamps and am only working about 1 foot or so from the stuff. The heat of it was what also threw me off. It would have seriously burnt me if I would have been dumb enough to hold on to it. Anyway, thanks again. Dan

I have been using Decon 2 ton epoxy, but something is going wrong. It sets up very quickly(like 5 min tops). I mean like rock hard in 5 min. It's also so hot you can't even toich the mising cup. I can only get a couple of spinnerbait heads coated before it's a gummy mess. It starts to get gummy in about a minute and a half. The only thing I can figure is I am working under one of those fluorescent replacement lightbulbs (150W). This has happened everytime I've used the stuff. It keeps the bubbles in the clearcoat because it's to stiff for them to work their way out. Anyway if anyone has any ideas it would be much appreciated. Thanks, Dan

I have handpainted hundreds of spinnerbaits using Component Systems vinyl paint. It works great. Covers well, and frankly I got good enough at some of the patterns that people thought they were airbrushed. However, the paint costs about 6 to 8 dollars for a 4 oz. jar and it is touchy stuff, meaning the shelf life is inconsistent, it stinks, and you have to use a special thinner which smells even worse. It will always have a special place in my heart ::)because the first baits I made that caught fish were with that stuff. I got an airbrush not long after I started making baits with the intent to spray vinyl, but I couldn't seem to get the stuff to work right in the brush. After that I got pretty good at doing them by hand so I put the airbrush on the shelf only to get back out this week after finding all my vinyl paint solid after a summer and fall of fishing and unable to afford replacing all the vinyl paint colors. I went to crafts 2000, bought createx paint and will not go back to vinyl. It's just cheaper to spray. One reason for using vinyl paint is durability. It is durable but when you coat your paint job with Devcon 2 ton anyway what difference does it make. My advice, after going the long route, is go by an airbrush and some createx paint. By the time you get all the colors you want in vinyl you could have bought an airbrush anyway. This is probably more that my 2 cents but I've been there done that and I hate to see someone go down the same long road. Dan P.S. Does anyone know if fluorescent light will make Devcon set up quicker. When I use it I only have about 4 min working time and it gets so hot I can't touch it. The only thing I can figure is I'm using one of those fluorescent replacement bulbs close to the lures. Just incase you're wondering, yse it is 2 ton.

dampeoples, what kind of paint do you use if you don't mind my asking. I brush with CS vinyl paint but it seems pointless to do this with an airbrush because it defeats the purpose of using that kind of paint. I only use it for spinnerbaits and jigs. I'm actually quite proud of them but it's too much work for all the thinning and paint you end up using. I have a Paasche dual action airbrush but haven't really used it because I don't know what paint to use. I noticed you painted spinnerbaits also and wondered if you used the same paint for plastic,wood, and lead. I would post pics of some of the baits I have done of I can find the pictures. I give alot of them away and just ask for them to send me a pic of the big one they catch with them. Ifigure i'll change paint if I'm going to cover them with 2ton epoxy anyway. That vinyl paint sure is durable once it sets up thoroughly though. Anyway, any advice would be appreciated. I'm not new to painting just new to airbrushing. Thanks, Dan

Does anyone use the epoxy from Component Systems or their new 1 part DuraCoat? Just curious. I love their vinyl paint, but I haven't been able to spray it effectively because you have to thin it so much and that kind of defeats the purpose of the vinyl paint. I was just curious about the CS stuff. Dan