SteveF

Has anyone seen or used Gary Klein's K-Finesse jig from Spro? I would be interested in hearing about the quality of the jig, as well as the overall look of the jig. Also, I debating on switching to the Terminator Top Secret jig for my large jig profile, however when trimming the skirt back is that a probablem with the rattle's being on the arms or do you take the rattles off? I would prefer to use the rattles, but how much trimming is needed on this jig? Thanks guys, and if someone has both and could take a picture for comparison in size and shape that would be excellent. Steve

rondef, Amen to changing the hooks, specially on the Rat-L-Trap brand. I have found that the Yo-Zori lipless hooks are pretty good. Steve

I absolutely love lipless crankbait fishing, however I have always preferred mono/copolymer over braid but not because of ripping the hooks out of a fish, but because I feel that the fish get the bait deeper because of the loss of feel and the stretch I am not taking it away from them. In other words, I would prefer to have to pick a few weeds that I might not be able to clear off my bait with mono, but have the entire bait in the fishes mouth when it does take it as lipless crankbaits are notorious for throwing the bait anyway, I guess I would rather put that favor in my side of the court as much as possible. No braid for me. Steve

The best hand tied swim jigs are made here in Wisconsin: www.customlures.net Call and ask for Scott, he will also produce any color you can create in your mind. Steve

I only use Gamakatsu EWG hooks, however with most tubes these days they require a very large gap, and in order to get the gap needed the hook is too long. I would like to know if there is a wider gap hook out there that does not add to much length? Like are Owner's Rig n Hooks wider than the EWG, because they seem shorter for the size? What does everyone else use for 4" tubes? A 2/0 seems to be the right length, however I would prefer a 2/0 length with the gap of a 4/0, is this possible? Thanks, Steve

Curious as to the durability of the Flick Shake worm if rigged wacky style with a jig head? I'm trying to decide between the Flick Shake and the thin Senko for a great finesse worm and wacky worm. Also, when using a jig head, can you use an o ring even though the jig head will be side ways or will that cause the worm to want to turn side ways as well? I will probably use a 4" Senko the majority of the time, however wanted to have a finesse bait to my finesse bait if needed in a really tough situation. Thanks all, Steve

I will only use the Cul-M-Rite scales, as it can be certified as well. Thanks. Steve

I have probably 20 of the RC .5's and 1.5's and I also have a few of the Big Daddy's too, just wondering if there are some better baits out there so keep your opinions coming. I haven't found the Mann's Baby 1- to be extremely well suited for brush, however for $4 a guy can afford to loose a few of them, and I probably already own at least 2 of every color they have but I mostly use them around weeds or over weeds. Thanks all, Steve

I'm looking for a crankbait that I can throw into some nasty stuff and work it through. What I want the bait to do is be a substitute for a spinnerbait at times, or for a little different look. I'd really like it to run in the 4' range, however would be vary interested in series of baits that can run say 2', 4', 6' and 8' or a 2-4 and a 6-8. Thanks for all the help in advance. Steve

More people realize it more than you think, maybe just not so much in the Chicago area. I've spent some time on many of the Great Lakes, and the fishing is great. Steve

I personally wouldn't be looking for numbers, I would be looking for that 6 pounder this time of year. Personally I feel you would be able to cover as much water with a football head, while also not making them "catch" the bait as much as they would have to with a long leader. Again, the water temperatures have to be really cold, as at best you are just after ice out if the bays are even free of ice yet. Steve

Duma, Being a bottom prey fish species of the Great Lakes, I would suggest a 1/2 oz. football head stuffed inside a Goby Coffee tube to be the best presentation of a Goby. However, with the water temperatures in Lake Michigan this time of year I would opt for a hair jig and you're going to have to very deep, as water temperatures can't be much over 40 if that I would guess (could be wrong). Take care, Steve

Question: Step 4. "... None of the loops of braid should jump on top of or over the other loops of braid - this is important! If even one loop jumps out of line, start over or you chance a break off at the worst possible time! ..." Doesn't the braid have to go over the other loops of braid in order to reverse the wrapping process? I mean if you make 8 wraps going one way and you need to make 8 wraps going back doesn't the braid have to form "X's" to complete this knot? Thanks. Steve

For me, I absolutely love the Sufix DNA Promix I have been using for the past couple of years, it is very inexpensive and extremely strong and abrasion resistant. Now by no means is it as sensitive as braid, but I have more faith in the clear line (even in dirty water) than I do with the braid (more mental probably than anything). My experience with fluorocarbon was very short, however the more I read on these types of forums the more I understand that it was not fluorocarbon, it was the Berkley Transition brand. What am I missing with the Gamma's, Sugoi's, Seagur's and the like? Is the knot strength there? Is the sensitivity really there compared to a copolymer? I read the review on TackleTour.com and I'm not sure how those numbers compare to the real world, however I can say that my experience with the Transition was worse than there test numbers. Braid, I have only used Power Pro, and I can't say that it was a negative experience but more a mental experience. The noise in the guides was hard for me to swallow (especially with all my rods being $300) and the fact of the possibly strikes difference with the more visible line (or is it in the water's I fish?). That's all for now, let's here it .... Steve

I would like to discuss in detail what everyone's thoughts are when it comes to line, what things are important to one person but maybe not important to another. Now I know that many of you are going to be braid fans, and some others are going to be fluorocarbon fans, but lets look at why? What positive aspects make you lean one way over another, is it water clarity, size of the fish, sensitivity or is it strength to diameter? I've always been a mono/copolymer fan, however I am looking for the sensitivity and strength of a given line. Now I fish mostly stained waters as the "river rat" that I am, however I find it mentally hard to fish braided line, even though it would probably my best choice. I guess I have purchased my Japanese reels (Alpha's, Steez's) and paired them with St. Croix Legend Elite's to gain my sensitivity. I will typically only fish frogs on braid, and I'm debating to fish some fluorocarbon line on my flipping sticks this year instead of copolymer's. My questions: What makes you choose your preferred all around line? What conditions make you switch (finesse fishing, flipping, frogs)? How much does water clarity effect your choice depending on your application? In your opinion, of the lines you have fished (experience with each-braid, fluorocarbon & mono/copolymer) what have you found to be the biggest differences between them as far as sensitivity, abrasion resistance and strength (both knot and test for test)? Lets see some great discussion please. Take care all, Steve

I just use my finger nails, and I have about 50 Rat-L-Traps so I have changed numerous of trebles just with those baits ... man I would pay a little more if they would just put some Gamakatsu hooks on there from the factory ... A small hemostat (spelling?) works too, clip it on one side and rotate the nose in between the ring and it will open to get the hook started as well. Steve

I would like to know some feedback on the XPS Flourocarbon as far as knot strength, durability in structure as well as amount of stretch compared to other flourocarbon lines. I appreciate any and all information that you can give me. Thanks. Steve

I totally agree that it makes sense, and I went with the Steez for the ability to present light baits like my (slow) Alpha Type F's, but yet a faster gear ratio. I'm hoping that it is a winner. Steve

Thanks for the confidence, I'm going to guess that your recommendation on settings being critical is the smoothness because of bearings and what not, or at least a positive aspect of the reel, correct? I purchased this reel as I like to flip finesse jigs, and what not with when I want a slower fall, or a finesse presentation, and even though I haven't fished my new Zillions I was told they are more for heavier baits which is fine as they will be used for carolina rigs and frogs, however I wanted a little faster gear ratio than my Alpha's but to say pretty similar as I absolutely love them. Thanks again. Steve

For those that read the Daiwa fan, but thread I decided on a Steez 103HLA. I was curious as to if anyone has used this reel and how it compares to the Daiwa Alpha Type F (Japanese SOL) and the Zillion in general, and whether it was a great choice for a pitching reel? Thanks all, Steve

Bass Brat, I did not doubt anyone and totally agree with a faster gear ratio makes since for flipping and pitching, I guess I didn't see where I doubted someone on there opinion. I was asked why I feel a slower ratio was better for me in my mind for my standard finesse fishing, but I never stated that a faster or slower was better for flipping and pitching or for that matter than my way was right. Reelmechnic understood my reasoning as I like to leave my baits, jigs in one place longer and the slower gear ratio makes me slow down even though I am moving the bait with my rod I have to take more time reeling to take up that slack which in turn leaves my bait motionless for a longer period of time. michbass, It's funny that you mentioned that as I did go with the Steez 103HL (I believe that is the code for the left handed model in the 103 series). I would really like to hear why some prefer faster gear ratios over slower, is it lest cranking or is it a matter of more casts throughout the day? Thanks all, Steve

Bass Brat, Please explain the wall you are referring to? Steve

I personally prefer to either drag my jigs in those situations or I will stroke the jig, which is basically like setting the hook 2-3 times in a row (deep water). I believe that stroking jigs gives the same presentation as the initial drop does (and we all know how productive the initial drop is on a jig) but does it without bringing the jig back to the boat. Basically long points, with rocks I will drag a football head. Deep weeds, I will jerk the jig out of the weeds hard (stroke it) and let it settle back to the bottom, and wait ... then jerk it 2-3 times back out clearing the jig of any grass (if present). Steve

But I tend to leave it in one place longer with a slower gear ratio because I am taking up slack probably but at the same time not moving the lure. Steve

I feel that the slower gear ratio makes me slow down more and fish slower, which is why I love the Alpha's on my EC68MXF for my T Rigs and spinnerbaits. I understand where you are coming from, but the St. Croix Elites are so sensitive that I don't mind having a very slight slack in the line when working the bait, I think that the rod will transmit the bite, but the reel will force me to fish slower ... am I right or wrong ... I don't know but that is my reasoning. Steve