SteveF

Could those that have experience with the Rapala DT Series of baits rate them against other crankbaits as far as action and effectiveness? I'm kind of a Lucky Craft fan, however I would like to get into some handmade Balsa baits and was wondering how these DT crankbaits perform in relation to others until I take the plunge into the $25-$30 baits as they are wood correct? Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Happy Holiday's, Steve

I have it narrowed down to the Iwata Eclipse HP-CS (gravity feed) thanks to Marty, and the Iwata HP-C Plus (gravity feed) for the brushes. Any advice or helpful comparison would be great? I'm at a loss on the compressor, I would like something that doesn't run constantly but yet is not 5 times the cost of my other supplies as well. I want consistent air flow in order to utilize the quality air brush and to help with my abilities especially at first. Please help recommend some compressors or give me any advise that you can? Again thanks to Marty I am aware that I need some misc. accessories that are very important such as a good regulator and moisture traps along with Createx and Wildlife paints. However, any more information or helpful hints that you can provide a new person coming into air brushing baits would be greatly appreciated. Thanks all, Steve

If you were going to get 6 buzzbaits (2 of each as buying only one of each isn't an option), what size(s) and color choices would you choose? Would you mix it up with a couple of each size? Would you buy only 1 color but in each size? Or would would buy all the same size and in 3 colors? Fish size range to about 6 pounds, and includes a mixture of smallmouth as well if that matters. Thanks all, Steve

It's not how deep you fish ... it's how you wiggle your worm.

You will not beat the teeth on pike. I lost 15 jigs in a 2 day tournament to muskie's and that is just a day on the water with lakes with pike and muskie. The only way to beat them is to use a leader which is designed for toothy critters. Take care, Steve

I hate to tell you, but that "stupid law" is probably the reason you caught a decent smallie like that in the first place. It is put into place to protect them during the spawn. In northern Wisconsin it goes until like June 14th, and in some lakes it is a 21" minimum length with only 1 over 24". It preserves the fishery during the spawn, and there isn't a fish easier to catch on a bed than a small mouth. Take care and congrats. Steve

I have all sizes of Gammie EWG's from 1, 1/0, 2/0, 3/0 and 4/0 and typically always fish the 3/0 about 90% of the time. If you are going to carry one size for me it would be a 3/0 as Raul said. The other sizes come in handy when using different sized baits and I'm a fanatic when it comes to gear, so I have everything and I would say the best idea and what I kind of use when I throw a worm is to have the hook point enter at the bottom of the egg sack on all my worms/senkos. Hope this helps. Steve

I have never fished this type of lure, however have fished the weighted hooks before. I little trick is to start the hook like you normally would, however once the point has came out of the bait take it back out and insert the eye of the hook and it will go back out to the nose of the bait, the only disadvantage of doing it this way is that you will need to tie the hook on after it is rigged, and retie more often; but then again that may just increase your odds as it forces you to retie. Hope this makes sense. Steve

I was a little too late. ;D The following is a link to a hook (Reaction Innovations BMF Flippin' Hook) that has the eye welded closed for this very reason: http://www.***.com/descpageRIHOOKS-RIH.html Take care, Steve

I don't fish braid much, however try tying a piece of mono with just a standard over hand knot on that side of your braid so that the mono prevents the braid from slipping through, as the mono will not. Hope this helps my friend. Take care, Steve

Nobody has an opinion on this? Come on guys/gals, lets here about it. Steve

What copolymer line has the least amount of stretch? What about the most abrasive resistant and best knot strength? I would also like to see some testing if you know of any body that has tested any lines extensively. I'm looking for something in the 14-15 pound range for use on a Steez and a Zillion for finesse jig/t rig uses. Thanks. Steve

I use a St. Croix AC62MXF with a Daiwa Sol and 10 pound copolymer line. It is perfect for short, accurate casts to docks, and isolated cover. Hope this helps. Steve

To me a Senko (one of my favorite baits) has too slow of a fall for pitching and flipping. When I'm pitching and flipping I am doing it to specific targets and am typically only fishing the initial fall and then maybe one or two hops and its back in the next spot. I would say that a Senko with a 1/8 oz-1/4 oz weight would work for pitching and flipping, but I personally wouldn't pitch and flip it. Now casting it to weed edges, or rip rap banks and the like is when it is at its best for me, but for pitching and flipping a jig, or a pegged t rig is what I'm going to have on the end of my flippin' stick. Steve

In my opinion the rod components from the guides to the graphite blank and the reel seat as well as the line that you use are the most important factors when it comes to sensitivity. I believe the best rods as far as components and sensitivity are the St. Croix Elites, as I have fished Kistler's, G Loomis and I have settled on the 14 Legend Elites. As for reels make it more or less sensitive, in my opinion the reel is more important when it comes to casting and retrieving (more so with baitcasters) though. I all I am a huge supporter of extreme high end rods and high end reels (particularly the Japanese variety). Take care, Steve

Don't they have any weedless frog baits? They look like they are all supporting dangly trebles? Thanks for sharing. Steve

Custom rods don't offer me much, as I would basically end up with a Legend Elite or GLX, what does it offer that is different from those "factory" rods, not to mention time? I'm looking for a unique design (blank) with some uniqueness in the overall look such as that offered from Megabass. What custom option would I choose that would make it better than those offered from the factory, or what benefits would there be? Would be great to hear from some custom rod makers to make me a believer and I would consider that option as well, as money isn't the issue if I can get the uniqueness. Thanks all, Steve

I appreciate the information, sounds like direct is the best route. What would you guys suggest to pair with a Daiwa Steez 103HLA for finesse pitching/casting with say 12 pound test in light to medium cover? Thanks. Steve

I'm interested in teaming up my Steez 103HLA to a little more exotic rod than my standard St. Croix Elite. Where can a guy purchase these types of rods (Megabass or Evergreen)? Are they available online from Japan where I have purchased numerous reels already? Thanks. Steve

Just thought this might be an easier alternative to keeping your eye open on Ebay. Link doesn't work, so both sizes are availabe at another site. Com Hope this helps. Steve

If they are hooked deep as in the gullet (I believe that is what it is called) or the clinched spot at the bass of there mouth, then the only option there is to cut the hook as any attempt to me is harmful and more than likely deadly to the fish. If that is what you are talking, you are only doing wrong by trying to remove. I have found that with senkos if I am not paying attention and set the hook as soon as they bite I will have to cut the hook or the line in order to prevent them from any harm. Take care, Steve

I personally throw wake baits on a EC68MXF or a AC66MHM as I throw those baits in some nasty stuff, and even though it is not a power house rod, I have found that a MF or a MXF is perfect, soft enough to let the fish take the bait good yet stiff enough to move a fish and (try) to keep them out of cover. As always it is personal preference, however I feel the wake baits are not as effective in open water (other than flats), so I usually am pulling it along pad fields or over submerged weed beds, where a glass rod (crankbait) would not provide me with the little extra power to pull the fish out of cover. Hope this helps, Steve

I would say that it varies so much from one situation to the next, however I would say that a 1/4 oz weight is probably my average. I do use 1/16 oz all the way to 1/2 oz depending on the "weeds" (broad term) and depending on the tackle that I am using. If your looking for one weight to use in most situations I would say a 3/16 oz-1/4 oz. Hope this helps. Steve

Bass Brat, I'm not disagreeing with you at all, and I see your point for sure as far as just to have a quality custom rod, but is it really "better" in terms of performance? Again, it leads us back to the original post, I'm more of a performance guy, however I'm worse than my wife when it comes to something looking good though. Some rod builders are true craftsman's if you will, but is the end result more sensitive or using better components when you compare apples to apples, I just believe there isn't in the performance part of things. Again, I've tried the custom route with some very specific applications that I wanted a rod to do, and the few builders I've asked about it can not even "create" the rod that I wanted ... was it those "craftsman"? I don't know, but to me a true rod builder should be able to produce anything for a specific amount of money and I haven't found that person yet. Steve

Bass Brat, I don't understand your thinking, not that you are wrong by any means, but I have 14 Legend Elite Croix's and one of the reasons I bought these highly sensitive yet brittle (comes with sensitivity) rods is because there warranty is second to no one. I just don't see having a custom rod builder build me a rod based of a St. Croix SCV blank (same as above) with the same components and probably charge me the same or more for the rod and have a 1 year warranty, heck most rod companies warranty a $100 rod for that long. Again no disrespect to the very good rod builders on this board as there rods are some fine pieces of art, but just not for me but then again I guess I haven't dreamt up a rod that wasn't available in a product Elite or Tournament bass series, and the ones I did I haven't found a rod builder that can build it either ... so again ... warranty for me with extreme high components and quality in a production rod. Take care, Steve