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Hook Manufacturers need to get the hint!

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With braids getting smaller and fish getting bigger, this problem is more prevalent than ever. Too many times when using braid and setting the hook, the line pulls out of the small gap between eye and hook shank. Have lost many fish because of this not to mention the rig which nowadays if using top of the line products like Tungsten weights etc.,can be a headache and expensive to say the least. Fished for 45 yrs and know every knot in the book and and nothing short of glue will keep the knot from sometimes sliding into the gap when a fish has the bait jumbled up in his mouth. Also the crimping method leaves a small divot in the end next to the gap and unless you ck it often, it will hold the knot in the divot right next to the gap. I now have to crimp each of my hooks individually prior to use.

Is there anyone else who have noticed this, or am I just too picky?

If they could just close the gap

www.ragetail.com

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Agreed 100% since I mostly use braid.

I take a piece of heavy mono or fluoro and tie a knot on first,then cut it off to "block" the gap. Most times though I just tie the braid on 2 or even 3 times then cut the line at the knot and slide the pieces over and dont have any problems after doing that.

 Most times if I cut a hook off to fish something else or change sizes I just leave the knot on the hook then its ready next time I tie it on.

There is absolutely nothing worse than laying back on a pig and hearing that "pop"!!!!

Even still though...why cant the makers come up with a design with no gap at the line tie :-?

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I don't fish braid much, however try tying a piece of mono with just a standard over hand knot on that side of your braid so that the mono prevents the braid from slipping through, as the mono will not.  

Hope this helps my friend.

Take care,

Steve

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I don't fish braid much, however try tying a piece of mono with just a standard over hand knot on that side of your braid so that the mono prevents the braid from slipping through, as the mono will not.  

Hope this helps my friend.

Take care,

Steve

Thats a good idea Steve, using the mono as a keeper. Still don't like the thought of having to do that though.

On the Reaction Inno hook, would be nice if it was a worm style hook withe J offset below the eye. If it was, I would own a bunch of'em.

www.ragetail.com

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Agreed 100% since I mostly use braid.

I take a piece of heavy mono or fluoro and tie a knot on first,then cut it off to "block" the gap. Most times though I just tie the braid on 2 or even 3 times then cut the line at the knot and slide the pieces over and dont have any problems after doing that.

 Most times if I cut a hook off to fish something else or change sizes I just leave the knot on the hook then its ready next time I tie it on.

There is absolutely nothing worse than laying back on a pig and hearing that "pop"!!!!

Even still though...why cant the makers come up with a design with no gap at the line tie :-?

Hey Finatic, sounds like tying a few extra knots ahead is gonna be the answer. Thanks

www.ragetail.com

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I use a double palomar. The knot is pretty fat. I have not really had an issue with this.

This is the knot that I use with braid with best results and use Tungsten and normally 3/8 or better. Have had it beat on the double palomar and frey it badly pretty quick. Thanks

www.ragetail.com

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Are you guys having this problem with Owner and Gamigatsu?  I use Owners almost exclusively and haven't had that problem with suffix braid.

I don't get to fish but once a week though.

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Snell the line on the hook with a uni-knot especially when using a heavy tungsten weight. That way the sinker can't come in contact with the knot and the knot is not in the hook eye so it can't slip out. Put the line through the hook eye from the point side when starting the knot.

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I've never had the problem much - but wouldn't a drop of super-glue on the gap solve the problem?  

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Stringjam, no, super glue is too thin to fill the gap and it's too brittle when set up to offer any resistance to the line slipping thru. Even using super glue on the knot to keep it from working it's way around to the gap won't last but a couple of casts since working the lure and weight will break it loose. Without snelling, filling the gap with another knot before the final tying-on works the best.

tCR, the gap cannot be closed with pliers since there is really no gap, it's the small contact area of the wire end to the shaft that is the problem. The wire has a blunt end and that is resting against a curved surface which is the round wire the hook is made of.

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Why don't you all fish the superline hooks by Gamakatsu????? Aren't they welded shut as well? Theyare meant for braid and what not....

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Why don't you all fish the superline hooks by Gamakatsu????? Aren't they welded shut as well? Theyare meant for braid and what not....

Superline is a darn good hook but....not welded shut. :-/

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MattStrykul, I just checked all my Gammy Superline hooks under magnification and none are welded. The wire is a heavier guage than the non-superline hooks

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Might take a little time but couldn't a guy solder the gap shut? Or would heating up the hook a little compromise the strength? Couldn't be any worse than pouring melted lead around a hook. Heck maybe I just thought of another bait to sell......custom hooks...... ;D ;D ;D ;D

Harshman

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Go with it Harshman,

www.ragetail.com

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I agree and use the Gammy superline hook now and it is definitely better than the others but it too has failed at the gap, just not as often. Wayne P's idea about snelling is good, cause that would alleviate the problem as well. thanks

www.ragetail.com

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never had the problem

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Guest muddy

I wouldn't put the jaws of pliers anywhere my knot or line for that matter, your begging for abrasion that way

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I wouldn't put the jaws of pliers anywhere my knot or line for that matter, your begging for abrasion that way

You are on the money Muddy, been there done that and lost my T-shirt along with the fish. Tried vice press and aluminum inserts to avoid abrasion with better results. Lot of work though. Wow, we go to great lengths just to hold those big slimy critters, "Aint They Beautiful"?

Steve

www.ragetail.com

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Oddly enough, I can't say that I remember that happening to me.

I would imagine that something else had to take place first,

to allow the hook to pivot around and expose the wire-slot.

Not for nothing, I've never had a uni-knot slip on me, but I've heard others with that complaint.

I always suggest that they pre-tighten the uni-knot before the final tightening and it will NEVER slip.

But now you've got me wondering; is it possible that their knot slipped through the wire-slot in the eyelet?

Things that make you go, Hmmmm ;)

Roger

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