J Francho

Muddy, I love you man, but get serious -- the is BassResource.com, not Bass-Striper-Tuna-SteelheadResource.com, LOL.

Just like a Senko, a float and fly in the wrong location can be boring and unproductive. You want a slight breeze and low activity fish in relatively shallow (for smallmouth) water. its a deadly technique, but not one of my top choices anymore. Back in the 90s, we used it a lot.

1. Jig 2. Jig 3. Jig 4. Jig 5. Jig

For some reason a dude with a mullet, fishing a Slug-O came to mine, LOL. So true, though.

Take a trick out of the trout fisherman's book, and fish a float 'n worm in there. Float down, set hook.

No, some are professionals and some are charter captains: Go Strip Bass Fishing now, with a Charter Captain and he will usually have the very best salt water gear for their customers. Enthusiast is not set by dollar amounts and not all high end buyers buy for collection some , indeed all the Captains here buy it out of need ,for their customers. also there are tuna guys here,buying the best for themselves,and you should see what the Steel head guys are spending on rods and reels.Sorry Raul; 200 bucks is not a criteria for enthusiast But Muddy, isn't it all relative? How can you compare a tuna fisherman's gear to a bass fisherman's gear? You cannot touch a deep drop rig for under $1200. But you can get a decent baitcasting rig for $150. I have a few JDM reels, including an Alphas and an ITO Alphas Ai. Neither cost me more than $200, yest they are considered "enthusiast gear." Just trying to put some perspective on things. By the way, I caught this steelhead on a $120 Lamiglass Pro Graphite rod, and a $90 Daiwa spinning reel:

Why would you expect a company to enable oafishness on anyone's part? More accurately, why should I have to pay more for an item to subsidize another individual's oafishness and the manufacture looks good? Those last 2 posts may have well have been Japanese, they make no sense in English The rods I have , all have warranties, they are all specific as to what they cover, how and why does this effect you buying one? Pantera is referring to certain manus that have a no hassle replacement plan. There is no way that some of the replacement cost is not built in to the initial retail price. By that, I mean that anyone that buys a rod with a lifetime no hassle replacement policy is also paying to replace others' broken rods. This is different than a warranty for defective product.

Not the cranker, but the burner. 12# brown trout. Line was 8# CXX, drag set to 3# of resistance. Worked like a champ.

In a tournament, I will mutter to myself. I can recall having a hard time shaking the disappointment of losing two huge fish at the boat at a tx on Black Lake. I was so ticked after the second fish came off, I was a little shaky. Took five, had a snack, and regrouped. We came in 4th, which is good for points, but no cash.

I think its great when a guy that posts so much good "big bass how to" info gets some props in a major publication. Congrats man!

Very slow sink, even with a heavy duty hook. If rigged correctly, with a slight upturned snout, the get on plane quickly, and retrieve is no faster than a spinnerbait. Sometimes, you do want to really burn them. You may not actually hook the fish, but they'll give up their location. Finish them off with a slower bait

No, Koopa, I meant there are guys here that fish waters that hold DD and better. A 10+ in WI would be a remarkable catch. BTW, I just read a local report by a friend of mine that fishes downstate, NY. 8-6 on a spinnerbait. WooHoo Pete!. Sorry, that's off topic, but had to mention.

If they are in Wisconsin, sure. But there are people on here that are near waters that hold potential records.

How would I get the trailer hook on? I'm unfamilar with this technique, but seems like it would work. Thread an O'Shaunessy hook on the main hook after inserting through the nose, but before inserting the main hook point in the toad's butt.

This isn't about his sponsorships. As a college team, this is about our sponsorships. If the whole club is going to represent a company, shouldn't the whole club have a say in who it is? I see, but still, that's not necessarily true. In most clubs, they have a quorum rule. Not ALL members need to agree or even be present when a motion is made, seconded, and voted upon. Anyway, this is much ado about nothing. Take the money. No club sponsor has ever required we use their products or services, just advertise. I'm curious as to the company that is so business savvy, they thought a four man club was worth the investment. What is alarming to me, is that in its infancy, this club has set a precedent for exclusion. Not a great formula for success. :

Pre treat the line with KVD L&L, and the bleeding issue is resolved. Color lasts much longer as well, if kept up.

Wow, you have a club with 4 members, and have already voted someone out. Jeez.... If my club dictated whom I can and cannot contact about my sponsorships, I would tell them to jump in the lake. Your terms of membership are ridiculous. Good luck attracting new members.

No, you need to replace the whole tip top. Its pretty simple, my 10 year old son has done it.

I use my XH flipping stick, 65# Power Pro, a 1/2 to 3/4 oz. weight, and a 5/0 worm hook to cannonball pads with a 10" PowerWorm.

A 3/0 or 4/0 Owner Wide Gap Plus or Rigg'n Hook works GREAT with Stanley Ribbits.

I use red or yellow for just the opposite reason: visibility. With slack line presentations, being able to see the line is key to detecting the bite. If you are concerned about "lining" the fish, just use a fluorocarbon leader. I like P-Line CFX, Gamma, and Triple Fish leader material. An Alberto or Uni to Uni connection works great for attaching the 6-8' leader.

ANY boat with ANY motorized propulsion whatsoever MUST be redistered if it is to be used on ANY NYS waterways. Somewhere there should be hull ID (HID), stamped into the hull. Feel around, and you'll come across it.

No that isn't I-bay. For I-bay, you basically need to work your way down either shore, fishing in 8-15 FOW until you find fish. Then pick the spot apart. dmac14 recommended some community holes that should produce.

Owner, P-Line, Daiwa, Shimano, Deps, Lucky Craft, Megabass, GYCB, Megastrike, KVD L&L, Columbia, Keen, Yo-Zuri, Power Pro, Flambeau, Falcon, Sufix, Raection Innovations, Gambler, Ragetail, Outkast, Skinny Bear, SWL, Stanley, Spro... I'm sure I missed a few.

I do like a fast reel for frogs, but this is a thread about spook baits, not frogs.