J Francho

For $10 you can but a plug knocker. I have the Bill Dance one, and its paid for itself about 50 times over. Not one lost lure from a hangup.

And it looks pimp

I'm guilty of this. But I'm a mile or so, off shore, on Lake Ontario. I drop the buoy, then drop a waypoint. Then I drift to where the I'm a 100 yards or so away, and drop another buoy and waypoint. I might have 4 or five buoys out there. Its never been an issue. When you are out in a vast expanse of nothing, the markers give you real, visual conformation of what you are seeing on your GPS. My buoys all have my name and cell# on them.

Sounds like a whack-o.

Its the name of the technology, probably branded, which takes all the "slice" images and composites them into a very realistic rendering. They didn't have this ten years ago for 1st son, but for my youngest (he's 2) they did. Really impressive stuff. *************************************************** Congrats on what looks to be a perfect little wonder

That's twice in one week I've heard someone recommend soldering hooks, LOL. You guys ever fish with that? Solder is for electronics and sweating pipes. It won't hold to fishing. Besides, just go buy the minnow spoon - they are around $5 and less.

What size? Chances are, the Owner Beast in 8/0 should do the trick.

You want to do something cool to you Power Pro? before hitting it with KVD, take a black Sharpie, and color 1/2 the spool. Now you have camo line

Melatonin.

I use it on Power Pro. It preserves the color longer, and casts a little smoother. Nothing as dramatic as what it does to fluoro, mono, and copoly.

There are too many variables involved in what depth a lure actually runs at, as opposed to its stated depth. I have so many cranks that cover the gamut of depths, down to about 20'. I just keep picking through and using them until I find the one that runs right for the area I'm fishing.

I've literally tried just about every spinnerbait box, wallet, binder, whatever out there, and have settled on the FTO wallet. It works well with every type of spinnerbait, except the Secret Weapon Lures baits.

Alewife, blueback herring, sawbellies....get some Berkley Gulp! Alive 3' and 4" minnows, find the bait, and drop shot away. Been working great on Lake Ontario for years.

This is the style I use: click me. I think I got two at Dick's and another two at Wallyland. They were like $6 for a two pack.

I own an Avid AVC70MHF, its a beast. Throws 1/2+ oz. jigs, frogs, big t-rig creatures and worms, big spinnerbaits, small solid swimbaits, etc. with ease. Love the rod, but its not an all "arounder", like my LTBC70MF. Get the M and later when you are ready for a heavy cover/bait rod go for the MH.

7" Power Worm 10" Power Worm 10" Anaconda

Depends on the weight of the spinnerbait you're throwing. I generally throw 1/2 to 1 oz. spinnerbaits, so I prefer a MH/F rod. For the times I use a lighter spinnerbait, for pinpointing holes, I go to my topwater/jerkbait rod, a 6-2 MXF rod. Something in the 6-6 to 6-8 range, with the same action and power would be perfect for this, though. I just have no need for another rod.

The front grip doesn't matter to me too much. I definitely like a full rear grip on cranking rods. My favorite two full cork grip rods would be St. Croix Avid AVC70MM and AVC70MHM. One thing I do not like is the EVA foam butt on my Kistlers and LTBs. They catch my long sleeve Columbia fishing shirts. I'll be swapping them out soon for rubberized cork, like is on the Avids. Speaking of the butts, I've rounded off all four of my Avids' butts - no more slipping when they leaned up against the wall or something.

LOL, its a Senko Slap Fight!!!! My Senko is bigger than yours! Who cares how far they go, its WHERE you put the bait that counts with a Senko. Its a "spot on the spot" bait.

The LTBS69MLXF and LTBS68MXF were on my final cut of about five rods when it came time to replace my (stupidly) broken drop shot rod. I handled both, mounted reels, tied weights on, and cast them in the store. I ended up getting a Kistler that was VERY similar to the LTBS69MLXF - same length, power, slightly faster taper, and on sale for about 40% less, LOL. Not as nice components. The difference I found between the two St. Croix rods wasn't so much what each could handle after hooking, as the backbone felt about the same, but in what weights each could handle in a normal pitch cast, or lob. If you use heavier (>3/8 oz.) weights, then go with the medium, otherwise, the ML will be fine. I still sometimes use heavier weights, but a little more power would ideal. i just have no use for so many spinning rods, LOL. My 6'9" ML/XF Kistler had no trouble pulling this 5-0 smallie off a bed: Many, many others have been caught both in cover and open water with this rod. Either will work well, and as someone that has two LTBs, they are really well made tools. You won't be disappointed. Congrats on the new addition

Mmmmmm....I love the taste of kosher salt and caviar in the morning, LOL. You mean you bite down on 'em? Guess you tie extras. We fish with Meatballs!!!!

Mmmmmm....I love the taste of kosher salt and caviar in the morning, LOL.

I don't ice fish, but we hit the streams for winter steelhead. Some trips to Pulaski have been in the single digits.

Agreed. Definitely not new to the Great Lakes and I seldom use the Mite Me Big Dudes mostly because of cost and I have convinced myself that the bulge is not that important (read: I am cheap) especially when worked with the faster methods like in the IF article. Venom makes a 3/4 oz tube jig that is $12.82 for 25 or $40.32 for 100. Lake Erie eats tube jigs and these seem to work just as well for me. venom heads are great, too. There is a way to get the bulge, without using the Big dude head. Looks ugly, but its functional, too: Tie the jig on, sans the tube. I know this sounds "wrong" and that's why I call it "wrong way rig." Measure where the hook will exit the tube, and note that position. Thread the tube on by pushing the hook point into DEAD CENTER on the tip of the tube. Feed the tube body onto the hook until you get to the point where the hook will exit the back of the tube. Depending on the size of the tube, the hook might come out the side of the tube or just be out the skirt. Lube up the lead head with Megastrike. Push the tube over the lead, and massage the plastic so the hole you made makes up to the line tie, and covers the hook. Its UGLY looking. But, it has a goby bump, and your knot is protected by the plastic. I'll try to get a pic of this, if I can remember.

I don't know, but I'll check. What's that about? I let my subscription run out, and picked up a copy at the newsstand. To my horror, it was staple bound! I like the "perfect" style, glue binding with the spine. Having a somewhat photographic memory, I can recall the month and year a particular article appeared, and the spine showed this clearly.