J Francho

No, that's why you lose fish. That's why I set the hook, LOL. I rarely lose spinnerbait fish. But if it makes you more confident, bend and file away.

Nope. Huh? Nope. Its junk.

Not sure, don't have any friends/customers that have them. The ones on Daiwa are accessible by removing a small cover on the end of the handle with a paper clip.

7" or 10" Berkley Power Worms.

Sometimes I use a crank to locate weeds, especially fishing from shore with no electronics, and bringing some back is a good thing. Then I use weedless baits. As far as "ripping" off the weeds, You've got to use a bait that just skims the top of the weeds, not on that runs right into the heart of the slop. I like baits with a quick rise. When you feel the bait hang, stop reeling, and wait a half second. Then pop the rod and wait again. Continue the retrieve. You sometimes get bit after the initial snap of the rod.

I was just at BPS in Auburn the night before a tx. at Cayuga, and happened to spend about $50 there. I grabbed a few bags of Roboworms, drop shot weights, Super Chunk trailers, Parasite clips, football heads, KVD L&L, and yet another pair of braid scissors (I've fed a few to the lake gods this summer, LOL). It was sort of an anti climactic purchase, but that was all I really needed. Oh, and I've caught a few good fish on Money Minnows on both weighted and unweighted Owner Twist-Loks.

Most chains just buy top selling brand name combos. Gander, Bass Pro, Dick's, Cabela's etc. all have private label rods to fit that product slot.

The other two are in the handle.

Mine have seen one to three seasons, and they work better than new. You might want to reassess your maintenance schedule. The oldest reel is actually the smoothest reel in the bunch - smoother than a Sol that recently super tuned.

I couldn't care less if a rod had IM8 or IM80 graphite. I decide on a rod based first on the blank action and power and then the components. Lastly, I check to see if it feels right with the intended reel.

Why keep throwing the backer away? Just leave it and respool the last 100 yards or so. Alternatively, use a smaller capacity reel.

I think you have to be very specific here, as mono refers to a few different types of line. Nylon Mono: Suffix Elite, Trilene XL, Big Game FC: XPS or P-line 100% Copolymer: P-Line CXX

Put together a set of shore spots and learn what spots are better during different times of the year. Do not just park at one spot waiting for the fish to come. If the bottom is hard enough, wade, if you can. Keep moving until you find fish.

That's it. The humina was the clue.

I'm also finding a version by Connie Francis.

There is a couple of "Swanee River" songs. Al Jolson performed Gershwin's version, and Sephen C. Foster is responsible for the Florida state song.

Not sure that dead sticking is going to be the best tactic. My experience with spooning for bass is that they take it on the drop. In fact, most of the time, I don't even notice the fish until the next lift. This is why the strong, fast strokes work well with spoons.

The one that is catching fish right now . My favorites to fish? Either Spook types or spinnerbaits.

Maybe. If there is money on the line.

For dragging and hopping in open water, I like Zooms or Gitzits. I don't do much flipping with tubes - I have other baits that serve me well for this. I think a better question might be what tube jigs do you use. Maybe for another thread?

I definitely do not prefer a weightless tip.

The AC70MF is a good "all-around" rod for treble hook lures, not jigs or soft plastics. Although it is Fast Action, the tip is soft. Your want a firm tip for fishing soft plastics. 8-) I agree. The Avid medium weight tapers are very soft at the tip. I'm with you, a MH or H for plastics is a must.

Its a concern irrespective of line material. I fish Great Lakes waters infested with zebes, and the lines I listed about are very strong. I use moderate action graphite rods for cranking, so that is part of formula as well. The line may get rubbed and even peel a tiny bit, but they usually hold. Always inspect and retie at the slightest notion of a nicked or rubbed line. If you are concerned about abrasion, then stay away from so called supple or soft lines for cranking. Use a baitcaster to better manage stiffer FC line. The softer, supple products really excel on spinning rigs for finesse baits and light line.

I must be a tip heavy guy, as I prefer the balance point to be just in front of my index finger of my palming hand. I always though this was properly balanced. The exception to this would be flipping stick, as its closer to the reel center line.

I own a few Daiwa Capricorn (silver) baitcasters that were on clearance. I think one $60 and the others were $40. I have two TD-X HSDL flipping reels that I got used in EC for $40 each. I also have three Daiwa Capricorn XTC spinning reels (orange) at $60 each that have served me well. I have also owned a Quantum Accurist that fell apart after a year. Two $80 spinning reels needed roller bearings replaced after one year, not acceptable. However my 12 year old Quantum IR3 round BC is actually better than brand new, mechanically, after being cleaned and rebuilt every year. I have a Shimano Stadic, an older model with a wood handle that was a steal at $70 that has been great for two years. Another oddball are two 20 year old Zebco "33" that still work great. Yearly maintenance on those probably didn't hurt. Some companies have good products, and sometimes they make a dud. Its hard to determine if the dud is poor design/cheap components/poor quality control or just a "Monday morning car." Lately, I've been buying higher end gear. And I feel it is much the same. Some are worth it, some aren't. As far as my recommendation for <$100 reel? Look for a TD-A on ebay or in the clearance bin.