J Francho

But wait! Everyone says fluoro is delicate and breaks easily when nicked, and you're using it in a harsh toothy situation. Another myth perpetuated. BTW, what diameter do you find prevents breakoffs from picks?

This especially well put. I'll go one further on the stretch bit. My largest brown trout (22 lbs.) was caught using a 4# Seaguar Blue Label leader, attached to a 6# Blue Label shot line, attached to 8# P-Line CXX. The attachments were all made with Raven 20# micro swivels using uni knots - 5 knots in total. The entire terminal rig is about 13' long, which is about as long as my centrepin float rod. Pretty sure this dispels the many points of failure, stretch ruins fluoro, or that it isn't for big fish. I doubt anyone encounters this extreme in bass fishing. Oh, the "bait" for this is a little bead, pegged just above the hook with a broken toothpick. Toothpicks don't harm your line either... For the OP, check your reel settings. Coiling doesn't cause backlashes. You can use KVD L&L to help with the issue, but really, a few casts and a fish or two mitigates the problem.

In most cases, yes. I fish straight fluoro on many of my set ups. There are several that are straight braid. I do carry and use leaders occasionally. There have been a very few occasions where I was not getting bit, while others in the boat were, so when in Rome... Other times, when fishing wood, want to be able to break off, without leaving a ton of line in the water or ripping the cover from lake, but still want minimal stretch that offers lightning fast hooksets. That's a good use case for braid and leader. I prefer actual leader material and use Seaguar Gold Label in 8 to 15# size.

I fish 3/4 tubes on a MLXF, so I'm the wrong guy to ask that, lol. I know- it's a quirk and not a recommendation. The rod did fine with weedless wacky so I think it will handle all that. I'd step it up for a finesse jig with a brush guard, but I bet you'd be fine with it using braid.

You can. But unless you really know what your doing, don't. Unless you plan on eating them, then it doesn't matter.

They only allow using theirs was my point.

Using Hobie scupper cart properly on a Hobie does not void the warranty.

I have the 6' 10" MLXF Victory rod, saddled with an OG Stradic CI4 spooled with 6# mono. I used it last week almost exclusively tossing wacky jig, wacky/weedless(T-rig style) senkos, and flukes. It fishes a little heavier than most others' ML, but feels light and nimble. Here it is with a trophy Rocky Balboa:

I prefer an XF taper for large single hook baits. I want to be into the power of the rod quickly to drive that hook. Moderate and parabolic tapers may throw a chatterbait nicely, but need not apply to hook setting, unless you step way up on the power. Even then, what's the point? I'd rather use a lighter rod whenever possible.

For the OP: I have a fish grip on a T-Reins leash. It can, if you're low to the water. I still prefer a net when there's a face full of trebles. Don't.

They go for almost that now in very good condition.

In that same catalog were black Team Daiwas - THE top of the line reel to have - for $129, which was a ludicrous amount of money for a reel. It around this time I bought a Stradic for $80 which seemed super expensive at the time.

Even earlier. I have a BPS Master catalog from 1994 with the 7.1:1 Procaster in it. Interesting tidbit: Curado Bs were $89.99 and Citicas were 79.99. I recall that $10 difference being a big deal back then.

I'm not sure what you mean? The pic you posted is a current Spro lure.

It's a Spro Bronzeye Pop: https://spro.com/products/bronzeye-pop-70

Always make sure your purse matches your belt and shoes.

There's a HUGE thread here:

I do believe it is a product developed by Rob Faddis himself. The other product they market is Bow to Stern boat polish, which has very similar properties. Also, if it was as simple as you suggest, any number of companies cold come out with a product and undercut the margin. There just isn't anyone doing that, so that tells me there's more to it than that.

They seemed to disappear from production rods in the 1980s.

Lots of myths being propagated in this thread. I'd wager the stretch of fluoro is pretty similar to mono, though mono stretches a bit more when water logged. Knots - you simply need a well tied knot. I do not bother wetting the knot, just cinch it slowly, and always from the tag end. Degradation is interesting topic. I have run Invisx on reel for 6 years and Tatsu for 5. I'm sure it would have lasted longer, but the line was getting too low on the spools. Try that with mono.

This statement is not correct in the case of L&L. I caught this fish (and at least 30 others) on a 6# Tatsu that was spooled up sometime in 2018, based on the sticker I put on the reel foot. After every trip, I treat the line with a few squirts of L&L. If it weakened the line, I'm pretty sure my use case would reveal that. It doesn't weaken the line. It does soften the line a bit. Solvent based products such as Real Magic and WD40 definitely damage line. I do not. However, I have found some benefit to treating the guides when fishing sub freezing conditions. It helps make knocking the ice off the guides a little easier.

Check out the videos on the site. It seals and coats the line. You should try before spreading pseudo science.

Not KVD Line & Lure. It actually slickens the line with long chain polymers.

Not exactly true. You do not need a driver license to get a fishing license in LA, but if you have a DL, you can use the wallet app.

Had a nice couple days earlier this week.