J Francho

I've broken a couple of micro guides. I can't remember who made them, but many rod builders on here were a bit indignant about it being possible. Glad the OP's are fine.

Great video! I don't entirely agree that spring is the only key time. In my experience, Great Lakes smallmouth are fat as heck almost year round, save winter when I've never fished for them or directly spawn/post-spawn (see pics below). My PB came on a warm November day, in a deep wintering hole on Erie. I do have some outstanding catches from pre-spawn and spawn periods, as well as dead of summer. June, directly post-spawn Novemeber: Early May, minutes from spawn. Males were already making nests: August (a few decades ago, lol): Late May, full on spawn:

https://fish.shimano.com/content/fish/northamerica/us/en/homepage/REEL_SUPPORT_SERVICES/Reel-Maintenance.html Start here: https://fish.shimano.com/content/dam/shimanosnaffish/pdf/Spinning Reels maint.pdf

I can assure you that casting into the wind is almost always the better presentation, if you can hold your boat position. It isn't easier, but easier isn't usually better. The same goes for current. Upstream is almost always better.

Wut?

Nice job! I tore it up a week later on the south shore of Ontario.

That's my question too. None of my bass boats made much of a wake at when on plane.

Anchoring from the stern faces you downstream or downwind, and neither are ideal ways to present a bait.

I've had my stuff a lot longer, lol. AFW has a reasonable starter crimp kit at $20. Or you can go all the way up to a HiSeas for $130.

I like the flavored seltzer waters. Pack them, along with some ice packs in my Hobie cooler. I've tested completely full of ice sitting in the hot sun on my porch, and there were still ice cubes after two days. Sushi anyone?

This is THE deal.

Oh my goodness....

Bummer! Can you try to get a warranty exchange?

It won't matter a bit since it's stuck in the plastic. Use whatever to add weight. How much depends on wind and how fast you want it to sink. Personally, at 20', I'm drop shotting.

I've done this as well. Works nice when you want to switch between wacky and weedless, depending on the cover.

You didn't describe what power you are matching with what baits. YOu might be over powering the fish. I use AC Avid 6-3 MLXF and 6-3 MXF for tubes and do not have an issue with losing fish. I probably err a little on the heavy side for weights of the baits, and the rod rating. I also use straight fluoro. Much simpler than braid to a leader for a beginner.

6# Tatsu has always worked just fine for me.

Seems like we're talking about two different things: tubes or kick boats. Pros and cons to both.

That's fine. I'm good with fluoro. Get it? Yours is not the ONLY answer. Go get a root beer float.

You use mono, so no it isn't a good idea. You can if you use fluoro. I completely trust it. Caught over 30 fish on two seperate days last week, including this girl with 6# line I spooled up in 2018. I have a 1000 yard spool of 6# line, so I'm probably gonna change them all out soon. Just haven't had time, and I know and trust the product. Seaguar Tatsu, literally the best there is in my book.

More that isn't really debatable: In the end, fluoro and braid are less expensive than mono because they both last so much longer. Pretty sure I have 10 year old braid on a couple reels and have gone as long as 6 years with fluoro. Both are more expensive up front, but pay off in the long run.

You generally have to go over 60# to get decent protection. As was mentioned, that can kill the action. A tieable steel leader is an option as well. I've used Cortland Toothy Critter with success.

That's pretty light! I've crimped my own leaders from 80# and 100# for targeting northern pike.

Keen Newport H2O.