J Francho

I once dreamed I forgot my pants and went fishing. That dream was way better than when I dreamed I forgot my pants and went to work.

General recommendation - spinning, 15-30#, casting 40 to 65#. I pretty much stick to 20 for spin, and 50 for cast.

Rule #1: match line diameters, not break strength or "test".

L&L is one of the "must haves" for my fishing - like a good set of pliers, a blade, some cold beverage, a camera, and a scale. I bet I have a dozen bottles in various places - tackle bags, boat compartments, my truck... I know there's three in my junk drawer in the kitchen, lol. It's a must have if you're using fluoro or copoly. Tough lines really benefit from it, and it doesn't harm the line. In fact, I think it helps CXX last longer. I know it also helps braid hold it's color longer.

Fixed that for you.

You don't want "backbone" on a fully loaded rod with a fish on. The harder you fight a steelhead, the harder it fights back. You want constant and steady pressure. You'd be surprised at how much pressure you're putting on a fish with even a 4# line rated rod that's 10+ feet long. Watch an experienced steelheader fight a fish - there's more side pressure, steering, and letting them run that actual yanking back.

What material, what size, where do I get this part? Telling the average user to jam scrap metal laying around the shop into a roller bearing is bad advice. You're really stretching things here to get at pulling line out of a reel in reverse proves it's sensitivity. I don't think that reel sensitivity is total bunk, but I gotta say, I'm of the opinion that if you're relying on it to tell you what your bait is doing, you're rod is junk. The rod, even a $20 graphite job, will transit more information than a slow reel, fast reel, in between reel, or string wound up on a pop can. I'm sorry, what it is that your trying to demonstrate? That a reel with a higher gear ratio will have less revolutions of the handle per some arbitrary length of line pulled out? You can get that directly from the gear ratio spec itself. I'm struggling to understand. What does this have to do with sensitivity? Are you saying that on a faster reel you can't react to input from the bait as quickly because the spool is moving so fast? Fair enough, but you can also argue that you can't react as quickly on a slow reel because your hands are already moving too fast. Both points are moot, when put in the context of a reel being mounted to a rod. Even using your logic, a faster reel with no AR would transmit more back to the hands because a small change in bait movement results in greater handle movement. Also a moot point. Feel it in the rod. Or is this just a stand you're taking in support of slow ratio reels because it's all own, and all you know? I'm cool with whatever you use to fish - heck, I use a 1:1 ratio centrepin that has no drag or AR to fish rivers - so long as you enjoy what you're doing. I'd suggest you try some faster ratio reels long enough to learn to adjust to them, and switch back to a slow reel before declaring one better than the other, and see if the your old arguments hold up. Slow, fast, in the middle- they're just variations on the same tool - it's not a hammer vs. a table saw debate. In certain situations, one or the other either feels better or offers a slight advantage - most were brought up here. For others, it doesn't matter. I don't like fast reels for anything moving, except when fast isn't fast enough - then I need faster, lol. Slow reels catch fish. So do fast ones, and everything in between. "Better" is personal preference, though there are definite trends that occur among larger groups of users. The reasons don't have to be quantified through backwards math and off beat claims of better this or that. I have no need to prove scientifically why I prefer a full rear grip over split. I just like it. It's not more or less sensitive, lighter or heavier,. balanced or unbalanced....I just like it. That doesn't make me smarter than split grip guys. I suppose I could demonstrate some science to prove why it's better, but it isn't why I use a full grip. None.

That's right, 9 issues per year. I guess I don't pay too much attention to when it comes. I don't really read it too much, unless something really interests me.

http://www.lineandlure.com/media/videos/play/4/Reel_Magic_Will_It_Burn

Look up "iridescence." Light, and angle plays a part too.

I bet that really bugged you.

One has map chips. Weigh that in too.

It will make all your dreams come true. Go up to the L&L site and check out the videos.

I would skip the Real Magic. It's not for reels. It breaks down line, is flammable, and counteracts the benefits of the KVD L&L.

Try #2 on this list: http://www.bassmaster.com/bass-membership-faqs

The amount of misconception of it is confounding. I don't care if you like it or not, but unless you fished, please don't describe to me what it's like, lol.

A buddy of mine pours his own baits, and makes something similar. I'm not totally convinced the hair generates a bite, but it does hold a scent like Megastrike very well.

Reel service techs everywhere just got a bump in business. In other words, do not try this at home. Most modern reels do not use a dog and bone anti reverse, save for the redundant system in some Shimano reels, and it's not easy for most to get it back together properly. Substituting anything for the roller bearing sleeve is a really bad idea, unless you want to replace it.

I don't care for CX, but I love CXX.

Not that important to me, though I can cast pretty far. Smooth, trouble free casting, that gets my bait in the general vicinity is all I care about. The more you fish, the farther you can cast, and the more accurate you become.

I get it every month, and I never subscribed. I got an issue a couple weeks ago.

That's true, though they are so heavy, even then....

Said no one that has caught a fish on an umbrella rig, lol.

The bass boat owners generally load and unload without much ado. Pontoons, bowriders, and deck boats, now that's good stuff!