J Francho

You kind of need to see a roll cast firsthand or on video, and that's what I'd call the very most basic cast. For false casting. I generally have beginners scribe a "C" above them on an imaginary blackboard, and keep practicing until they get the rhythm. I'm by no means an expert caster, but don't watch "A River Runs Through It," none of it very realistic.

No silly, a 3" senko "weighs" exactly the same as a 6" senko, which is unaffected by gravity, or so I heard on the internet. Their mass is different, though.

You lost me at "Facbook Article"...

Kent's always a little late to the party.

What action? LOL, that's beauty of the fluke. But you know that already. :rolleyes:

I mount mine on an acid free matte, in a tasteful frame. The photo, that is.

Fluke type baits are one of those baits that literally has dozens of "correct" rigging options. It might be one the most versatile plastics available. Jighead, wacky, wacky jig, split shot, drop shot, nose hooked, parasite hooked, Carolina, punch, neko, jika, as a trailer, tandem....the list goes on and on and on.

I've only launched from Squantz Park. Your going to navigate to Danbury, CT. As great as people talk about it, it wasn't easy, though I fished in post cold front conditions. It's pretty there, though.

There's a few REALLY nice Bulkets in that range for sale. Not that I'm biased, or anything.

Yep, Perception is a good starter boat as well. Forgot about that brand. My buddy had one, and I was surprised at how nice it was.

SCIV. I'm not sure I fish better with that extra bit of sensitivity - the Avids are plenty sensitive.

Click the BBCode Mode button in the upper left to deactivate formatting, and right-click & paste to your heart's content.

Don't rule out used boats either. If that isn't for you, these are great boats to "get your feet wet": http://www.pelicansport.com/en/products/kayaks/sit-top-kayaks/strike-120x-angler

Two used TD-X I got for around $40 each. Used > cheap new stuff.

Think around $1k. Otherwise, skip the mid level boats and grab a Pelican or something inexpensive until you start to get a feel for what you want/like.

Pick your poison..... Coosa Ride 115/135 Feel Free Lure Prowler There's a more out there. For a general rec, the Ride 115 is hard to beat. It's not the prettiest, but it's one the best built, and feature packed crafts. I'm paddling a Coosa right now, and it's not my favorite boat, but for first timer, it would work well. The seat is like a La-Z-boy, lol.

You should be able to feel it when it hits bottom. Wind, line diameter, slack, and most importantly, the size of the bait and hook, all change drop rate.

The jump from an SCIII to SCIV blank is not quite as dramatic as the jump from an SCII. I have a dozen Avids, four or five LTBs, and love them all.

Keep in mind, he'll be paying $425/month for an 11 year old boat. I don't begrudge a loan at all, but there's some great used deals out there, something ALWAYS goes wrong with a boat.

I think a net would really help a guy that is already using a glove to handle the fish.

Exactly.

Rollout = (tire diameter * π) / ((spur / pinion) * internal gear ratio) Translated to a fishing reel: Rollout (knob travel per revolution of the spool) = (handle length * π) / (gear ratio) There's no "transmission or rear differential" in a reel, so gear ratio is all you need. Note what's not here: IPT. Also note that reels are not driven by the spool. As they say in New Hampshire, "You can't there from here."

Ahhhh, no. My 3.73 gears don't magically become 4.10 gears by changing tire size. You're misunderstanding the relationship between tire travel, gear ratio, and rpm. I will stand by my original statement. Inches per turn and gear ratio are most definitely not affected by handle length. Ever. The only thing that will change IPT is spool diameter. spool diameter : d gear ratio : r inches per turn: i r * d * π = i π, r, and r are constants. d is altered by how much line is on the reel. Generally, when rating reel for comparison, the maximum diameter is used. Notice what is NOT in this formula: handle length. IPT degradation, based on line diameter and aspect ratio of the spool (width x diameter) is pretty much never talked about, and has a minor effect, but is out of scope in this conversation. Bottom line, your math, naming conventions, and explanations are incorrectly applied to the relationship between the objective knob travel and subjective feel different length handles offer. I'm pretty much not going to debate this topic, since it's clear that you're unwilling to accept the math and physics involved here. Really the only thing up for discussion is leverage, how it applies to exerting torque on the spool, and the subjective feel increased leverage and knob travel different length handles provide. ******************************************************************************************* Personally, I like my long handles for some thing, and I also appreciate my shorter handles for others. Math can quantify the difference, but nothing beats user experience for developing preferences.

Here's your morning dose..... www.youtube.com/watch?v=QWjGhZt4Dsk

What's the planetary status of Uranus?