ernel

The what: Tule, bridal veil, mesh laundry bag, minnow dipping net The how: You can put the fabric in an embroderiy hoop and place it against the side of the lure then spray the next color of paint. I wrap the lure with the fabric and use clothes pins at the bottom of the lure to hold it in place while a spray. Heat set with a hair dryer then remove the fabric. Low paint volume high air pressure.

Thnak ya' very much. You can't see it because the flash was too harsh, :-[ but there is scale pattern worked in silver above the yellow stripe that fades into the blue.

This one is a re-paint from the bottom of the lake. When I found it it was brown from the rust off the hooks and the mud.

This is my version of the "Sexy Shad":

Thank ya' kindly. Eric

Big M, the deep divers are made from a 2:1 balsa:basswood laminate. The finished width is 16MM. They start out around 5/8". Thank ya' kindly for the thumbs up. For some reason, I always forget to take pictures. I had 2 more that I was going to post, but the camera went dead. I need to get some batteries so I can post the "sexy shad" paint scheme.

Sweet as usal. 8-) I just dont see how you turn out as many lures as you do. I might turn 3-4 in a week and that is if I don't work for 1/2 the week.

I start most of my new cranks on draft paper. I use a ruler, a compass, and a protracor to get started. Once the body is designed and measured, I get the lip angle for the type of lure I am trying to design. After the design is what I like, I transfer it over to something more rigid. I use cardboard, stencil material, or whatever I come across.

These are a couple Blue Back Herring top water stick baits:

These are a couple craw patterns. One spring and one summer:

Sweet! 8-)

Thank ya' folks.

The top one is one I made last week and the bottom is a re-paint on a Bandit Flatt Maxx. Eric

Depending on the make and model of your truck, there may be seperate fuse under the hood that sends DC to you trailer lights.

White Rattle Trap

Rapala is a good lure for the money, as are the others mentioned. I have Bombers, Bandits, Strike King, Rebels, BPS, Team Diawa, and Lucky Craft. I also make my own cranks to hit specific depths with different actions. I can honestly say that there is a time and place where one action will be more to a basses likeing than the other. And yes color will matter more at times than you know. Just because the lip on a DT says 10, 16 or whatever, does not mean that will be the depth it will run. (You can get almost 18' if you are willing to go down to 6lb floru) You can gain depth by using flourocarbon line instead of mono of the same test. Flouru carbon has less stretch which adds to sensitivty, but it sinks insted of floating. You can also gain by going to a smaller diameter mono line as well. So my .02 is buy lures from a company that is established or that has proven itself overtime. Somedays L/C will out produce all other lures in the box, and other days it will be an old Rapala or Bomber. Crankbaits are all the same in one respect, they are a tool designed to preform a specific function. Now you just have to pick the right tool for the job.

Sweet!

Thank 'ya.

You can go to almost any glass/window shop and they carry Lexan. You can buy it by the sheet, or you can buy smaller custom cut lengths. I get a piece that is 4" wide and 48" long for between $5-$6. I buy the .065 lexan.(1/16") I can make between 25-30 lips from one cut.

And one more: Eric

This is one of my cranks. Eric Edited due to re-size

It could just be the way the clutchdog is lining up the gears to the pinion. Have someone slowly spin the prop by hand as you shift into reverse. It should go into gear and stop spinning. It should go smoothly and quietly. If not have a mechanic take a look at it.

I would say that the shift rod needs to be adjusted. What type of motor do you have?

One way to check the measurement below pad is simple. All that is needed is a level, tape measure, and a level spot in the driveway. Place the level on the pad, and raise or lower the tounge on the trailer until the pad reads level. Next place the level on the cavitation plate and trim the motor up or down untill the cavitation plate reads level. Measure the distance from the ground to the bottom of the pad. Then measure from the ground to the center of the prop shaft. Subtract the prop shaft distance from the pad distance and this is your distance below or above pad. Before buying new prop, I would try the PVS plugs first if the prop has them. If you do not have the plugs to replace the ones that are in the prop, they are not expensive to buy from the dealer. It almost sounds like you could remove all of them to begin with anyway. If the prop does not have the vent holes, you can have them added by a good prop shop for around 40-60 bucks.

There are many types of batteries for different applications. I will however only speak on the ones mainly used in marine applications. A car/starting battery, as already stated is not capable of being used as a deep cycle for prolonged periods due to the size of the plates. The plates are not only thin, but are porous like a sponge and are very soft. They are a combination of lead and calcium. The reason the plates are so thin is so that more plates can be placed in each cell, thus giving maximum surface area contact with the electrolite/acid. This is how a starting battery is able to give so many CCAs. (This could also be the reason for the difference in the speed you noticed between the two batteries. Higher amperage available to be drawn for shorter periods with the starting battery.) It is also the reason for having such a low percantage of discharge. With repeated discharges below their reccomended level, the plates begin to fall apart and settle to the bottom of the cells within the battery. Recommended discharge for a starting battery is 2-5%. (Regardless whether it is liquid, gel, or AGM.) Hybrid batteries or Marine/RV batteries are a combination of charecteristics of a deep cycle and starting battery. They will normally have an amp hour rating (AH) and a MCA rating. (Marine cranking amps.)The plate composistion while thicker, is still soft and porous. This allows the plates to have more surface area for MCA (Available amp burst given at 32 degress as opposed to 0 degrees for CCA.) Plate composistion is still similar in the fact that most hybrid batteries have the lead calicium make up. The thicker plates allow for the battery to be drawn down further without damage occuring. Most hybrid batteries are able to be drawn down repeatedly by 60-65% and recharged without causing damage to the plates or cells as long as there is proper water levels in each of the cells. Water/electrolite levels do not apply to Gel, AGM or maintenance free batteries, as there is no way to check or replenish. A true deep cycle battery has plates that are not just thicker, but solid and normally rough. This is what allows the battery to be discharged to such extremes where other batteries would fail. This plate composition does have a draw back. This type of battery is suspect to loosing water faster than other plate composotions. These batteries are normally used in a commercial setting where they can be carefully monitord for water loss. (Back-up universal power supplies, telecommunications devices, etc) There are some deep cycle batteries that are made from the lead calicium combination. Their amp hour, while still longer than a hybrid of equal class will fall slightly short of the solid lead plate batteries. Both styles of the "true" deep cycle can be drawn down repeatedly to apx 80% and recharged without harming the battery in any way. These batteries can be liquid, gel or AGM. Edits were for spelling and content.