ernel

Marty, I had to reshoot the very top lure 3 times. I haven't done that since being 6 months in to building. The bottom lure is a double shot. I could not get the psi right on the metalic silver for shooting through the netting. Maybe it won't be so long in between the next batch. I only have two blanks that I have to build up and test so it should not be long. Either way I need to buy some more stock anyway. Eric

Thanks guys. I actually had a time with the airbrush. Things that used to be 2nd nature were a little of a struggle to do. Marty, I agree I am spending more time building rods than lures these days. It is a blast. You should try one someday. I can say that I let my wood stock actually run out for the first time in 4 years. I was shocked to find hardly enough to make the above 4 lures. Most importantly, the lures do however have the correct action. At least I did not forget how to build them. Eric

They look good to me. I can think of some places to throw them for sure. Eric

Took a little time to build a few lures. Haven't built any in a few months, so don't pay too much attention to the paint as I was way more rusty than I thought. Eric

Marty, very nice indeed. Eric

R/B, I have that same rod I built for slinging jigs. I don't have a lot of slop to throw to, so most of my jig fishing is done near docks and along points and 45 degree banks. It is a little more "stiff" than other mfgs version of MH, but I don't think you will be disappointed at all. Very sensitive blank for sure. Eric

Great catch on your first bait. It will stick in your memory. I was like you in 1 regard as well. My first catch on my first plug was a 4.5lb walleye in roughly 20 foot of water. Found 'em on the graph and thought they were bass just by seasonal positioning. There were 5 or 6 more large arches on the graph there too. Walleye don't pay at the weigh in, so I had to move on. I have found that over time, I have thrown that one lure more than any other lure I have made. I have many lures now that look much better due to better paint schemes, but I will reach for it first anytime I need to fish deeper water. It has caught many smallies over 3lbs, a lot of l/m over 4 , a few over 5, and one l/m that was over 7lbs. So don't knock your painting. Sometimes it doesn't need to be perfect to catch fish. Eric

If you know the general location you are looking to put the reel seat when you order, then you can have the seat fitted to the blank prior to shipping. This is the best way I have found to ensure that the proper seat is delivered. You can always call the supplier you purchased the blank from and have them do that now also. Then they can send you the proper seat. I would rather ream a seat to proper fit than to use ANY type of arbor when using a exposed blank seat. More work involved, but makes a better looking union where the blank is exposed. Handmade or homemade. The difference is in the details. Eric

I/B, I would use a 3/16-1/4 oz weight for the ballast as a starting point. Place the ballast at the lowest point of the belly and combine it as a hook hanger. Also, the lip slot is easier to cut square while the lure is still flat sided. (As in Pic 3) Eric

This is what the Ultra V packaging will look like: http://www.mudhole.com/core/media/media.nl/id.10768/c.210436/.f?h=a544ff2b40521f785523 Eric

Fine job. The color combo on the tiger wrap looks great. Eric

To add to what cidgrad said, a lighter rod is a more sensitive rod. If you can save weight in the most important place, which is the last 2/3 of the blank toward the tip, then the rod is just going to perform better. Just make sure you test cast with any knots or leaders that will need to pass through the guides prior to wrapping. I am able to pass a 20 turn arbor knot using 30 lb power pro to 17 lb XT through Fuji BLAG 4Js on a spiral wrap with no issues Eric

The way I do my balsa lures is to build all the hardware into the lure and seal with epoxy. I only use 2 coats of epoxy for sealing the lure. 1st coat is thinned with 6 drops of denatured alcohol. This allows the epoxy to be slightly thinner and I feel it soaks a little deeper into the wood as it takes it a little longer to set up. 2nd coat is not thinned. If you do the two coats within 24 hours, you do not need to sand between coats. The two coats will bond together. If you wait beyond 24 hours just sand with 400 or 600 paper to give the second coat a slightly scuffed surface to adhere to. Some people use super glue for the first coat to seal the wood. Then coat a second with epoxy to give a smooth surface to paint on. If you paint straight over CA glue, you can see some of the wood grain. Eric

I know one of the guys over on tu bends his lexan by heating the lip in hot olive oil. (Around 350 degrees if I remember correctly.) Deep friers like the "fry daddy" or the one made by presto will heat the oil up to 375. No cracks show afterwards either. http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/hardbait-how/12155-compound-bending-lexan.html http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/hardbait-how/13549-polycarbonate-lexan-lip-former.html Eric

1instripes, and ChiCityBasser, As far as where to start, try here http://www.bassresource.com/bass_fishing_forums/YaBB.pl?num=1152205660 and follow the links. Then here http://www.rodbuilding.org/list.php?2 Find and buy Tom Kirkmans book, and maybe pick the video "This is How We Do It" from Flexcoat. After that, if you still need to digest more knowledge, look into Dale Clemon's books also. Reel Mech, coming from you, that is a HUGE compliment. Thanks. Eric

Maltese, I am holding the the rod in the "right" hand though. Thanks. As far as cost, between $95 & $100. Bought the blank at the expo so missed out on an extra 10-15 bucks for shipping. Eric

Speedbead, The first paragraph was the only part I was directing toward you. The rest was just me reading the rest of the posts and responding in general. Did not mean it to sound like it was all toward you. So please do not take offense. Eric

Speedbead, If you want to see what the "veteran builders" are saying, then next time you are on rodbuildiong.org, just use the search feature with all dates selected with the words "micro maniacs". You will get at least 40 pages of reading. The proof is in your hand after you build one. If you have the option of building a 7' rod with 8 BLAG 6J guides that adds 1.384 grams on the last 2/3 of the blank, or build the same blank using 9 BLAG 4J guides that weigh .45 grams, which would you choose? One of the folks over on RBF figured it up to be something like 72% weight savings on average by using micros. It is not just about a more sensitive rod. It is also about a more efficient rod. It is also about weight reduction in the correct location, not just overall weight reduction. (It is however nice to build 8' rod and only add 1.7 oz including cork, reelseat, guides, tip, thread, and epoxy.) Building with micros is NOT FOR EVERY build. There are certain situations where it will not be the better build. Sometimes the reel, line, or knots will not allow the use of anything smaller than a 6 or even an 8, but that doesn't mean that it is a bad build. That is why you test cast prior to wrapping. If you can get 1/4 oz to go 95 feet with a 6J, and can only get 88 feet with a 4J, then the 4 is not the right guide. I will step off the soap box now. Eric

Thanks for the kind words. Eric

Decal made off the printer @ home.

Cataway XP3 963P, Split Grip, Fuji reel seat no fore grip, Fuji 4mm guides, 3.5 oz total weight of the build, 139' longest cast using 12lb XT mono with 3/8oz casting plug.Custom crank strategically placed. Label Grip and reel Guides Guide close up Eric

Here are a few links to show how small these guides really are. Looking at a photo will still not prepare you for actuall swize once in hand. The first 2 show the difference in size between a Fuji and Batson 3mm guide. http://www.rodbuilding.org/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/8119 http://www.rodbuilding.org/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/8120 This last one is the one that you can see best how small they really are. http://www.rodbuilding.org/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/5531/cat/506/page/ Eric

Yes they will work. I would however reccomend sticking with the Fuji guides. The Batsons are a little taller, but the Fujis have a longer foot to wrap. The Fuji 4mm guide is smaller and lighter than the Batson 3mm to boot. Yes you can build a spinning rod using size 3 & 4 guides for the running guides. You can actually build the whole rod using smaller guides. If you go with a "M" style guide, which has the ring higher off the foot. You can actually start off with a size 16 butt guide and transistion down to the "micro" running guides. Just keep in mind that if you are using a leader, then all your knots and such will need to pass through the guides as well. Eric

Carrothead, Each builder has their own way of painting. After you build so many, you will find a few schemes that normally out fish other schemes. Sometimes, you will find a very complex scheme that works wonders. Other times, you will find a simple scheme that will out fish anything in the tackle box. If you look at most bait fish, they are light on the bottom, somewhat "flashy" or bright on the sides, and get gradually darker in color as near the top. Most scale patterns are more visible near the "shoulders" approaching the top due to more contrast in colors. Now look back at all of those cranks. They each follow closely to that pattern that nature created and set in motion over thousands of years. Everything about that pattern makes a baitfish harder for predators to see, both in the water and from above. Honestly you should see his bluegill scheme. Simply awesome. Eric

Good to see you up and slinging paint again Marty. Eric