islandbass

Welcome and greetings from the Pacific Northwest!

It really doesn't matter, and you won't need for than 30 ft., unless you needed to be precise in how much you wish to spool of both the mono and braid. There are two basic ways to view the mono backing methodology as I call it. Method #1: Use just enough mono to stop slipping and fill the rest with braid. Pro: Super easy - only need about 30ft of mono Con: Some of that braid, for its price will never ever see action. Almost a pity. Method #2: A more economical use of braid - By way of using more mono, the angler now has the ability to use up the entire typcial spool of 150 yds in parts - either two (75 and 75) or three (50-50-50). You simply need to spool the line up with a percentage of mono and the top with braid. For example a Curado G holds about 180 yards of 8# line, from which you could extrapolate that it will probably hold maybe 150-160 yds of 10# test. For your example, we could use the former, since you are your 30# braid, which happens to have the mono equivalent of 8# mono. It makes things easier! If you wanted to use 50 yds of braid on top, you would only need to fill the spool with mono just 130 yards of mono. Because 30# braid and mono have the same diameter, a few simple caluclations will reveal that 130 yards will occupy about 72% of the spool. 72 is close to 75 which is just shy of 3/4 of the spool. So just fill up the spool with mono until it is about 3/4 full and fill up the rest with mono. Pros It's an economical way to use up your braid It helps to keep the spool close to optimum capacity which helps to increase casting distance with less effort and keep reel operating at its intended gear ratio Cons If you're fighting larger species of fish, you might run the risk of getting spooled down to your back for which 8# test might not be ideal - not a problem for most bass fishing scenarios If you're facing a lot of break offs, you run the risk of using up your braid quickly so bring the spool with you. If you remember fractions and percentages from 4th grade math, you can easily make modifications to how much braid/mono and to use regardless of the line strength. I have braid on one reel that is well into its 4th season, no problems at all. Pro: Ensures maximum use of braid.

You might have answered your own question as 5-6 outings without regular/peridically checking is a lot to ask of any line. The note about exiting the knot the same way is critical. The knot will come undone.

ah, the learning/growing pans of taking up the bc reel. first, the only way to prevent 100% backlashes from occuring is to not use one. Sometimes line can make a difference but you didnt mention which you were using. To help minimize the chances of a birdsnest: 1) use a manageable line. 10-14 lb mono is ideal for gun joggin ttyl (Stupid auto correct!) 10-14lb mono is ideal for learning, lol 2) learn to allow the weight of your lure to load the rod. This is so key. Those coming from a spinning background may have the toughest time with this. failure to do this with a spinning rig has no consequence 3) pull off line from the spool equal to about the length of two casts and place a piece of tape there and wind the line back on. If you nest again, the tape should stop the nest from going any deeper. 4) ensure the reel is set to the lure's weight I can relate to that one cast that birdsnests while other seemingly identical cast made are fine. Never Been able figure it out completely but the things i listes help me minimize that occurrence.

such a drop in atmospheric pressure may not affect the water temperature too much. to me fishing is better than not fishing and most of the time, weather changes dont prevent me from going. To me, the ds is a rigging method and not limited to light line fishing exclusively. step up in rod power, line strength and even bait size if need be to suit the conditions you face.

I think the challenge for them is handling the rod in their non-dominant hand. In the words of Metallica, sad but truu-uue.

Just My Take on the Drop Shot Fishing Technique I am no expert by any stretch of the imagination, but I have grown fond of the Drop Shot technique in my short, six-season fishing journey. I found this technique to be a very productive method to catch fish in a variety of states. In my first outing for fishing for smallmouth bass ever, I hooked and caught three smallmouth bass on three consecutive casts. It is the only method that has done this for me to date, and from the shore to boot. At the very least, I can share with you what I have learned through trial, error, and experience (which isn't much). As a method of catching fish, I believe the Drop Shot, as many bass anglers call it, has been around for a very long time. In its most basic form, it consists of having a weight at the end of the line with the hook a set distance above it. Basic Drop Shot Diagram Here is a generic set up: As previously noted, the weight that gets this rig to the bottom is attached at the end of the line and the hook is placed above it. Although weight of the sinker can be of just about any shape, there are some that are available that have a clip at the top of the weight that can be quickly attached to the line. It is not necessary, but it can be a convenient to use. A teardrop shaped weight with a clip for the line is used in the photo above. Rod Selection You don't need a Drop Shot specific rod. A medium-light to medium-powered rod with a moderate to extra-fast action, and a length ranging from 6'3" on up to just over 7' should work for you for now, unless you plan to fish heavier cover. If you find drop shotting to your liking, you can then opt to go with a Drop Shot specific rod of your choice. As a rule of thumb, a longer rod will enable you to have more line control, which is a plus when using the drop shot. Unfortunately, many anglers perceive the drop shot to be an exclusively finesse (fishing with lighter line, and smaller baits) technique. I do not limit myself to such a narrow view. I believe that the drop shot technique can be successfully employed not only in finesse but also heavier situations. One would simply have to adjust the rod and line to suit the environment. Reel Selection – Spinning or Casting? The decision to use a spinning or casting reel is up to you. I will use either, depending on the conditions I face. I prefer spinning reels (a size 20 or 2500 reel is an excellent choice) if I am going to face light cover, use lighter line and a lighter weight (1/8 oz. or 3/16 oz.). This is because they require less work on my part to give the bait a better vertical drop than a baitcast reel ever could. I realize it is minor, but it is a major peeve of mine to have to strip line off when using 1/8 oz. or 3/16 oz. weights just to produce a vertical descent of the bait. This is not an issue with a spinning reel. A vertical descent is achieved without any extra effort when the bail is kept open. With that said, casting reels can also be used. Even a Barbie pole can get it done for drop shotting! I will not hesitate to use a baitcast reel if I were going to fish cover that required the use of heavier line, heavier weights, and larger baits. Drop Shot Weight and Type A 3/16 - 1/4 oz weight is a good starting weight. Going any lighter might make it harder for you to read what is going on until you get experience. As for the shape, I like to use either the teardrop (like the QuickDrops sinkers. They are my favorite.) or cylindrical shape and prefer the former as my first choice. I have not experimented with other shapes. When facing windy conditions, strong currents, or if you have to fish a greater depth, you might want to consider using a heavier weight. Update: I no longer go out of my way to purchase drop shot specific weights. I use coiled pencil lead that I cut with special pliers that river anglers use. It is far more economical. A typical bag of ten 1/4oz weights (2.5 oz.) is about $3.50 give or take a few pennies. If I were to buy a pound of ¼ oz. drop shot weights, it would cost me $22.50! A pound of lead coil costs about $4.00. The math is simple. In addition, with the pencil lead, I can cut my lead to any size that I want and on the fly. Line Because you are drop shotting, lighter line is preferred if the cover you are fishing allows it. Use a heavier line if the cover dictates it. The conditions I generally face allow me to use six-pound fluorocarbon line. I usually use Seaguar's Invizx or Cabela’s house brand. Seaguar’s Invizx line is surprisingly limp and that is what I like about it. It is very manageable on spinning gear, which is something that cannot be said about other fluorocarbon lines whose stiffness can make it a pain to use on a spinning reel. I know that some also like to use braid. I know the benefits of braid and am not against it and maybe someday I’ll use it with a fluorocarbon leader. Given the amount of sensitivity my rod and line already provide me, I just don’t have a need to take it up another notch to braid for the depths I typically fish, which is usually no more than 25’. If you plan to fish greater depths, braid may very well be the ticket. The enhanced sensitivity braid provides should be helpful. Baits I keep an open mind when it comes to the baits I use. Many types of baits can be used. The general rule of thumb is a tendency to use smaller baits since we are "finesse" fishing (translates to downsizing in general). The length of a typical drop shot bait usually ranges from 3" - 4.5". However, this is not set in stone. Senkos, Sniper Snubs and Bolts, Roboworms, Reaction Innovations Flirts, Baby Brush Hogs and Tubes can be used. Think out of the typical angler’s zone. Do not limit yourself to using just a worm. Here is a picture of a smallmouth bass I caught on a longer Roboworm hoping for a bigger smallie. Bless its little heart. The Roboworm is nearly as long it is! Hook, Knot, and Rigging I prefer to use size 1 or 2 (mostly size 2) Owner Mosquito or Gamakatsu Split Shot/Drop Shot hooks. If I am fishing a grassy area in which grass can catch the exposed hook, I opt for the Owner Down-Shot hook, which is in essence a mini version of an EWG (extra wide gap) worm hook. Naturally, if you plan to drop shot much larger baits, you might need to go up in hook size. When tying the line to the hook to fish the drop shot, many anglers like to use the Palomar knot. Tie the Palomar knot as you usually would but do so with an extra long tag end. After the knot has been tied, position the hook with the point facing skyward and feed the tag end through the eyehook from the top. Next, tie, or if you have a drop shot specific weight, attach the weight to the tag end. TIP: To ensure that the point of the hook will face up after tying the Palomar knot, hold the hook so that the point is facing skyward in one hand. Then, initiate tying the knot by inserting the line through the hook’s eye from the top (the point’s side). If you start the Palomar knot by inserting the line the other way, the hook will be oriented point down upon completion. The two most commonly used ways to place the bait onto the hook when fishing the drop shot rig are to hook the bait through its nose, as shown in the first picture in this article and wacky rigged, or through the middle of the bait as shown below. A “Wacky-Rigged” 3” Senko Tag End Length (Distance from the hook to the weight) The best way to figure this out is to experiment. I have had success with the tag end being as short as 4-6" to nearly but not quite 24”. Because drop shot method is not limited to a purely vertical presentation, a longer leader is an option if you wish to work it like a Texas or Carolina rig (i.e., dragging it on the bottom from spot to spot). When fishing from the shore and as I do most of the time, a longer tag end will enable you to keep the bait off the ground with the shallow angle that results from a long cast and being on the bank. For a more vertical presentation, a shorter distance from the hook to the bait could work. Another influencing factor is the depth at which the fish are staying. You might need to adjust your tag end accordingly to get the bait into the fish’s strike zone. Imparting Action and Giving Life to the Lure Despite my initial perception of working a bait on a drop shot rig, I have learned that it is not all about jiggling and wiggling the bait to death. An angler can indeed work the bait this way, but I can tell you from personal experience that wiggling and jiggling the bait to death (continuously) has accounted for the fewest number of catches. By no means am I saying to not wiggle and jiggle it to death. It is however, just one method that can be effective on certain occasions. So what should one do in addition to the wiggling and jiggling tactic? Keep the weight on the bottom for the most part and leave enough slack in the line to let the bait sink/float/suspend on its own accord. For lack of a better term, I call that slack, “semi-slack.” Then, when you think the bait is near the bottom lift/twitch the rod just enough to move the bait a little (without moving or minimizing the movement of the weight on the bottom) and repeat. In effect, what you are doing is working a semi-slack line, which in turn, imparts action and life to the bait. No hits? Repeat if you wish, or add a little dead sticking to the mix or, drag your bait to the next spot. All are good choices. The dragging of the weight from one spot to the next also imparts life and action to the lure and can help to draw a strike. Working a semi-slack line and dead sticking have usually very effective and productive for me. Give it a try and see if it does the same for you. Not sure what the bait will do? Find shallow water and drop your bait down. The depth should be one where you can see all the way to the bottom. Once the weight is on the bottom, let your bait fall by lowering your rod. After the lure hits the bottom, raise the rod’s tip enough to bring the lure up a little while keeping some slack in the line, and do your best to keep the weight in place. Watching this will give you an idea of what will likely be happening when you are not able to see the bait with your own eyes. Visualizing what the bait is doing when I can’t see it helps me to focus on what I am trying to do, and that is catching fish. Concerned about not being able to feel the bite on this semi-slack line if you are using fluorocarbon or braid? Let me put you at ease. It is not an issue. Either of those lines combined with a sensitive rod is more than adequate to feel the bite when the line has a bit of slack. The Strike or Hit The strike or hit can vary depending on the activity level of the fish, the quality of your set up to a certain extent, and the line you are using. More sensitive rods do a better job of transmitting what is going on to you. I have had the blessing of drop shotting with my Berkley Cherrywood Rod, which is decent and not too shabby, but comparing it to my Lamiglas Certified Pro Drop Shot rod is something else. Here is my analogy: If the Cherrywood rod provides stereo sound to me while watching a DVD movie, the Lamiglas rod gives me the sound in THX and Blu-Ray for the mental image, for the full cinema experience. The latter rod is not necessary to enjoy drop shotting, but it makes it a lot easier to feel and detect the subtle strikes. The line you use can also influence the feel of the strike. My experience working with both mono and fluorocarbon is that the latter always seemed to give me a better picture. We all know now that although FC line can have as much or more stretch than a comparable monofilament line, it is likely that its density still enables it to beautifully transmit information from the end of our line, to the rod and to our hands. We all know how well braid transmits data back to the angler too so I don’t think I need to elaborate further. The hit or strike can feel like: A) A mushy tug or tick, which could translate to a complete inhalation of your bait or the fish attacking the lure from the hook's side. A nibble or nibbling, that transmits vibrations through the line to you. Sometimes you can see or feel the line vibrate through your semi-slack line. More sensitive rods tell you this much better and more clearly. I believe when the hit is like this (my best guess anyway as I visualize the strike), it is possible that the fish might have taken the lure from the side opposite the hook and the nibbling/vibrations you feel is the fish taking in the bait into its mouth, eventually getting to the hook. C) Bam! An aggressive hit and it's on! The Hook Set For one and three, just reeling up the slack and adding enough tension to make the line taut is sufficient for most cases to drive the light wire hook home. For case two, you have to wait until the fish gets to the hook and then do as mentioned above. If you don't, you will pull the lure from the fish's mouth. Since it didn't get to the hook, there is no way the fish can get hooked. I have written this based on the experience I gained from drop shotting. Take it for what it’s worth, an opinion at best. I will close by giving you a final warning: WARNING: Drop Shotting is as addictive as it is effective. Good luck and go get’em! Islandbass Review of My First Season Using the Drop Shot Technique The Drop Shot technique has been so effective for me that in my first season learning and using it, it has accounted for 100% of the smallmouth bass and about 70% of the largemouth bass I have caught in that season, I caught a lot, the most ever!!! And here is the thing that makes this even sweeter. They were all caught from the shore. No, this is not a testament to my skills, but a testament to the effectiveness of the Drop Shot technique.

Because back in the day, RH reels was pretty much the only option. So it didn't matter if you were left hand or right hand dominate. It was a fact that you had to use rh reels only. It makes me wonder if the inventor of the bc reel was left-handed, lol. As to RW's post about winches, it may be true, it simply doesn't work for me. I am RH dominant, but when it comes to "winching" in fish, both my hands are equally capable and neither feels uncomfortable (now). However, my right hand feels better in charge of handling the rod. With this said I can fish either way because I trained myself to fish both ways. I did make the "mistake" of buying a rh reel because I was rhanded. And it definitely felt awkward to say the least until I got accustomed to it. Since you are already used to retrieving with your left hand, I am willing to bet you a floating rapala minnow that you will prefer your bc reels to have handles on the left side.

this is my take and best guess... during the process of tying the palomar knot or really any knot we really need to be mindful when we "seal the deal" . what i have noticed, especially when tying the palomar knot when a bigger loop is involved, if the knot is tightened down poorly or incorrectly in such a way that the knot is practically formed above the eye of the hook and is finally cinched down toward the eye, the small amount of line between the eye and the knot gets damaged, and many times unkowingly unless you actually feel the line immediately above the eye after you have completed the knot. it will feel slightly worn. I saw a video in which a guy closed up the gap in the loop by pulling on the tag or standing end before cinching down to ensure that what I described doesnt happen. I think I watched it on this forum and it was simply practical and ingenius. ever since i watched that video, i have never made a bad palomar knot. it is my best guess as to why a palomar knot would ever break above the knot. something, either angler or cover, and in my case it was me most of the time, is very likely to have caused the damage, assuming the line was in great condition beforehand.

Thanks for the review but could you fill us in with more details? Like what # test? What was trashy about it? I dont doubt you but it helps to know. Primarily a memory problem? We're left hanging, lol.

Unfortunately, 12# cxx is one thick line and this too could be partially responsible. As for the over runs, cxx can get finicky. What I mean by that is I might have 20 good casts and then on the 21st cast, I am wondering where in the world did that overrun come from, lol?

Skeeter, Lucky you that you have such space to work in and once again, I commend you for taken excellent precautions and for the great advice. With the price of jigs and such these days, I have myself been seriously considering pouring my own lead. I have already copied and pasting your post to my pc for future reference. You know, I actually agree with you when it comes to lead as you have stated in your post. With that said, the possibility, however unlikely, still exists, which is why if we embark on pouring lead ourselves that we take as many precautions for our safety and the safety of others. After a little searching, I found the article in online to which I was referring to. You can read it for yourself here: http://www.thenewstr...for-tacoma.html Somehow, someway, this irresponsible ***** did some damage, which you can see for yourself. In addition, with the memory of this being hazy in my own mind, the article clarifies what actually happened vs. what I initially wrote off the top of my senior citizen like memory these days. I do not think you're a dick, nor do I think you sound like one, lol. -ib

That is great advice. However if you had neighbors close by could they be affected? The only reason I ask and you should be applauded for all of the effort you go through to be safe, but some prickkkk did lead work around his house and his area and neighbors were affected. I'd hate to be a neighbor whose home/yard got lead contamination through no account of my own.

Wow. That's a lot of work, labor intensive to say the least. If possible it might be easier if you could find the blank and build from the ground up. I have converted full to split but I wouldn't in my wildest wishes do that on a GLX. You can start by tracing out where you want to splits to end up. I then used a hobby knife and pliers to remove the unwanted cork. I proceeded to remove the remaining epoxy with sand paper before I learned that there might be a way to remove the eopxy chemicially or with heat. Any method you choose will not be an easy one. Too much heat to soften the epoxy (this was told to me theoretically) could damage the blank and so could sand paper. Maybe some chemists out there could recommend a liquid that could safely remove the epoxy without harming the blank. I know DVT builds rods and others here too so perhaps they can provide more insight. The way I removed the cork, I would NOT do to a GLX. May I ask why you want to go split grip? This is a low end $29 Rapala Rod. I'd shudder at doing this to a GLX, lol. Other than a change in aethestics, there is, IMHO no tactical advantage to choosing split grip or full grip. It's all preference. I happen to like both. I don't know how much it would cost to answer question, but I imagine it's not going to be cheap. Maybe 1/3 to 1/2 the price of your GLX as a best guess. Mine was free ninety-nine, but I did pay a price in elbow grease, lol.

The three listed are all very good and reasonably priced. I would lean toward the XL line because it casts well and is manageable enough for kids. Ande is very good line too but I have only used it in higher test like twenty lb for sw. In addition ande is known for their lines breaking at advertised strength. If you're going for a record, it won't hurt to use ande.

I'll be watching this thread. I have never caught a fish with a spinnerbaits or buzz air for that matter. I have also tried every cadence retrieval humanly possible so I have concluded the areas I fished either had no fish or it was something they didn't want. I have had success with inline spinners so go figure.

When you make a really good cast like that, chances are the amount of force/energy you put into the cast made the line snap. It is not uncommon and speaking from personal experience, when you are caught admiring what a beautiful cast you've made that is really far it's going, well, you now know the rest of the story. Been there, done that. As a newbie to bc reels, it won't hurt to occasionally check you line for kinks and weak points periodically especially after birds nests. Learning to carefully undo nests also helps. There is a video out there that shows a great way to unravel a birdsnest that is pretty effective. A quick search on here might find it.

Why don't you go with 1/3 flouro on top? This would ensure your joining knot is out of the casting equation. This or pure flouro which is kind of a waste. This is how I roll, roll the line on my spool, lol.

Let me help you put things into perspective or at least show you that misery loves company. August is nearly over and I have yet to catch my first lmb. Granted, I'm shore bound, and I've not gone out as many times as I would want but I am 0 for 4 from the shore since the start of the season. Frustrated is not the word for me despite all the bass skunkeroos I have. I still trudge on and try to not let it get to me. The only thing I can tell you is to not give up. Be thankful you're not stuck on the shore like me. You can also think of this low period as putting in your dues. And like a hitter in a slump we'll both be on the up and up. Be strong, bro!

That is great to hear. I am however, not a fan of its color scheme and as one who usually chooses function over looks/form, the irony gnaws at me like a beaver's teeth on a log. Ebony and ivory live together in perfect harmony...

@ 8k that's a out 0.3 cents (not 3 cents) per yard @ 600 it's 2 cents per yard. The former while looking more expensive is the better deal economically.

If they're average height, a 6' to 6.5' rod should be easy to handle. My daughter, who is now 12 started using a spinning rod at 5 and a casting rod at 6 1/2. My son, who is 7 and is using a 6.5' rod now and just tried a casting rod not too long ago. I say this not to brag about my kids, but to show you how fast kids can learn. I am pretty sure a decent non budget breaking spinning combo will do for either. I would not go the spin casting route because they will outgrow it before you can blink twice. It also means you'd be spending more dough. I would look at the berkley cherrywood rods and any spinning reel in the $30-$40 range each.

That might very well be true about the heat. It gets pretty cold in the winter too, lol. Your hand will "warm it up" quickly though. @sj - I think it is interesting and cool that independently we arrived at the same conclusion in comparing the compre and the mag touch. My compre is the model back when they were around $90.00.

It is one thing to handle a rod in the store and fiddle diddle with it but such an opinion while valid does not give an assesment worthy of testing the rod's mettle while "on the water" so to speak. As an owner of one, I believe it's worth it's $99 price if only for the Alconite guides. Rods at this price point usually do not sport such guides. I have put my rod through some tough trials that none of my other bass rods have been through. My mag touch has battled pink salmon, coho salmon and large trout in addition to and lmbs and smbs, and quite successfully too. I have used it for crankbaits, hard jerk baits, inline spinners, soft plastics, jigs and even drop shotting. My model is a spledid all-around rod. If the $99 price is still too high, just wait until it goes on sale. It's a fair deal at regular price and a steal of a deal when it is on sale. Case in point. It went on sale at 50% off. I applied for the cabela's visa card and as an incentive, they offered a $25.00 credit. I didn't know it at the time until the operator mentioned it. So at the end I wound up paying only $25.00 for it. $25.00 for a rod sporting Alconite guides? Now that's a deal!!!!! With regard to handle, it is no worse of better than cork. I did notice that if the put the handle backward it's gripping power would have been superior to cork. In the sensitivity department, I would say it is on par with the compre and I can say this because I also have a compre. I can feel the subtle nibble on the drop shot and the spinning of an inline spinner with a size 3 blade. Lastly, my awesome mag touch is the two piece casting version.

I have a son about his age who likes to touch them but not lip them and as mentioned, you know your son the best. As for you being wary of him losing his rod, I devised a leash system made with things found around the home for such a contingent for my daughter when she was your son's age. She already was using a bc reel, a curado, and the thought of her accidentally letting go on a cast or when the fish tugged definitely crossed my mind. I can pm you Picts on how to make it.