islandbass

I'll second the rapala skitter pop. I use both bait casting and spinning gear, but when working top waters, working the bait seems more "comfortable" so to speak, using spinning gear. I use both reel types for topwater, and don't have issues casting 1/4 oz lures with casting gear. However, I have noticed with all things being equal, (line weight, rod power, etc.) the lure's aerodynamics influence castibility with casting gear, particularly when it's blustery, when the wind's effects on the lure can slow it down such that you'd better be able to thumb the spool before a nest appears, lol. Also, for some odd reason, I've never considered 1/4 oz as light, but normal, especially for casting reels in the curado class and up. I consider light less than 3/16oz, lol.

Dorado, You nailed it! Well said.

I drop shot all the time and I too am shorebound. I would agree with you about being on shore and the angle of the line. I fish primarily rip rap for smallies and I go in knowing getting snagged up is a given. I can breakoff and retie three times in 5 minutes or less, lol. I've gotten around the use of costly DS weights, as much as I love to use them. As the other Ib noted (nice to see you're still around, ib) cylindrical weights and tear drop shaped I have also found to be the best for most conditions, including rocks. You're going to get addicted to drop shotting now. It's almost all I do, lol. -ib

That's it, nailed to a "T".

I concur with ScottF. Looks might be deceiving as it is not a close up, but that looks like way too much line. The only time what you describe happens to me is when I over spool. I reckon that if you remove enough line to get to 1/8" from the spool, your "problem" will go away.

I use a small strip of Velcro and situate it where the weight lands along the rod's handle.

Their pricier I would surmise because of their larger size. I bet it would be a sweet swim bait reel. If I had one, I'd put it up against salmon and steelhead. Had a chum salmon spool my curado DHSV 201 that was filled to optimum capacity. All I could do was salute the darn bugger and tip my hat to him, lol.

I think casting distance improves slightly with the bigger spool for the same amount of casting effort. A larger spool in theory should "dish" out more line "per coil", thus making a longer cast. However it probably isn't going to be too much farther. I also subscribe to 2500 size being perfect for bass fishing.

No, it is not necessarily overspooled. Ideally, when you add line to a baitcast reel, you want your rig to be directly "in line" with the filler spool. In other words, you don't want to have an extreme angle, sideways/perpendicular to the filler spool when you're putting on the line. This is IMHO the culprit of encouraging the line to get stacked more on one side of a reel's spool. It won't really affect performance of the reel too much and at worst, it is just unsightly or ugly to look at. Matter of fact, if you had the line on evenly and were fishing a technique that needed a mega-long cast, and started your retrieve perpendicular to the line, you just might end up with line lay that is biased to one side. If I start to see uneven laying of line, I will actually "skip" filling the high side until it looks balanced again, lol.

I have the 201d. They were originally about $199 when they first came out. Being that they have been discontinued for some time, even if new, I agree with jb. I wouldn't buy it for that price. It is an awesome reel and it's built like a tank. You will not be disappointed. Perhaps you should browse ebay to see what they're going for there. It is a fair barometer of their true worth. Luckily, you mentioned pawn shop. One thing that some people don't realize is that many times prices are negotiable. You ought to be able to talk the shop person down to $100.00 or less and you can bring a print out of ebay to make your case. Haggle, haggle, haggle, and you just might come out a winner. I would probably be willing if it were in the $60-80 range. Any higher, and I could probably find an e for the same price.

You are not alone! I am in the same boat. Sometimes though, that focused in the zone mode (which costs a lot of mental energy) can pay off. I remember one time taking some seniors trout fishing, I tossed my rig out, put my rod in a holder and noted the position of my line as I had my attention now turned on juggling, undoing tangled lines and rebaiting their hooks with power bait. After I got done getting everyone rebaited and untangled, I noticed my line was in a completely different position and there was no wind so I knew it had to be a fishing on. Inattention, nonetheless had paid off. I know that if were sitting there paying attention to my line with a hawk's eye, nothing would have happened on the other end of the line, lol.

I think that perception exists out there, and although I don't agree with it, I think that conclusion is drawn partly due to the failure of those who reach that conclusion after making an initial apples to apples comparison between braid and monofilament (nylon). I think one issue that isn't on their radar, is not factoring the difference in diameter between mono and braid of the same strength. For example, if the are accustomed to using 10# mono, they might go into the store to buy 10# braid because they'd want to use line of the same strength, right? At least on baitcasters, this has the potential to invite trouble to the party. It is a given that the thinner the diameter of a given line like mono, the greater the potential for the line to cause trouble. Most of us, who usually use general purpose casting reels not intended for thin diameter lines usually don't go less that 8# mono on a casting reel. So here they are, with their newly purchased 10# braid and what they might forget to consider is that 10# braid has the mono equivalent diameter of about 2# test. Now, you know they would never ever willingly or knowingly spool their casting reel with 2# test, but upon purchasing 10# braid, effectively, they will. Braid has another unique feature or trait. The thinner it is, the more it has the potential to "dig into" itself whenever the angler applies enough force to his or her rig. This is less of an issue from 30# up when in use by those with more experience with braid. So, if the choose a braid whose diameter is closer to what they are accustomed to using in mono, this "trouble" with braid practically becomes a non-issue. Also, don't forget to use a method that anchors your braid to your spool to prevent slipping. If you don't, you're going to think your drag has failed, and you don't want to be in a situation where your braid is slipping on the spool and you have the fish of a lifetime on, lol. I use a bit of mono to anchor the braid to the spool. Some use tape, and some even tie the braid to the spool through the holes.

You got that right, my fellow Washingtonian, and I don't think our WDFW does much if anything to support bass and other "warm water" fish as they call them in our neck of the woods. Being an odd year, I need to shell out for the salt water license too for a total of about $55.00 give or take. It would be interested to see if there is a corollary or relationship between a state's fishing license fee and its political leaning to the left or right.

Just remember that a right-handed reel is not designated to mean it is for a right-handed person, or more accurately, a person with right hand dominance. In actuality, rightly and accurately so, reel makers designate them right-handed reels because, regardless of the angler's hand dominance, when the reel is in use, the angler's right hand is going to be on the handle. So unless you turn your a baitcast with its handle on the right side of the reel, your right hand is going to turn the handle... unless of course, you turn you rig upside down, lol. I can relate as I initially thought the same thing. My first baitcaster as a result was a right hand model and it sure felt awkward. When given the option, I strongly prefer LH retrieve for both spinning and casting, but I have since programmed myself to fish either way. I will not buy another RH reel unless it's too good of a deal to pass up.

If senkos are working, then why change it? They are telling you what they are willing to hit. I'd milk that senko until they don't want it any longer then switch it up. It's a little backward for me. I catch them on almost everything expect a jig or 5" senko, lol.

Your height is never an excuse to use shorter rods or to refrain from using longer rods solely based on your height. I know I am shorter than most here (I'm as tall as wolverine, lol) and can pitch from the bank from the ground with an 8'6" rod. Other things like close quarters and the amount of room with which you might have to work with should be the factors that might influence the decision of the length of rod you use than your height.

How'd you know my birthday was next month? That is probably the best score ever in the history on forum threads of this ilk. Congrats.

I thnk you're on the right track about ruling out the 50e. I prefer slightly more line capacity for cranks. The 200 sized reel of your choice ought to suffice.

Very good stuff, very true. That is why salmon and steelhead rods are longer, to improve line control as stated. Many times when fishing from the bank for salmon, it is going to be a given that you hook set may very well be made well past 100' from you.

That was an awesome post. Well written, I not that I ever discounted a BPS reel over a "Big Name" reel maker, I find this quite impressive. Your report further affirms that the "it worked great but then crapped out on me" crowd is more likely at fault over the reel likely due to negligence. Even the better or best reels will crap out without proper maintenance.

That is nice to here that Abu is going to do that. A reel designated as "right-handed" is done so by the manufacturer because, well, it's a fact that the angler using the reel will use his or her right hand to crank the handle. The angler's hand dominance, whether left or right, has no bearing whatsoever on having the reel being labeled as right-handed. Vice versa is true for "left-handed" reels. This revalation dawned on me the day I got my first baitcaster. I bought a right-handed reel because I was right-hand dominant. Boy did it feel awkward! @ Lunker: If you are right-hand dominant, you ought to feel more comfortable using left handed reels anyway, as I do, also being right-hand dominant, lol. Now everybody is different so there will always be folks who prefer to fish opposite of what their hand dominance would usually prefer. Most right handed people playing catch with a baseball and glove would prefer to throw the ball on with the right hand since it is going to be the one with the power and coordination and catch with their left. Naturally it should follow such a person should cast with their right (as in throwing a ball) right. However, this is not always going to be the case. Not everyone will follow this mold. So unless one is completely ambidexterous, one way will feel more comfortable and less awkward than the other. The only way to know for certain is to try both. Also, RW, makes a great case for why folks who are rh dominant should use rh reels when using baitcasters. After realizing I bought the "wrong" one, I decided I would train myself to "fish" the other way and I am glad that I did. So while I prefer LH set ups, I don't have a have a problem using RH setups. After that, as already mentioned, it would behoove all of us to become proficient both left and right. Love this subject!

This is where that "softer" tip for lack of a better description really comes in. Also, try to work a semi-slack line and by this, I mean that the line is not too tight nor is it too slack. I say this because you are using fc line and even in semi slack mode, it can still send feedback to the angler's hands. From my experience, I have summed up the "bite" types with the drop shot as follows: The hit or strike can feel like: A) A mushy tug or tick, which could translate to a complete inhalation of your bait or the fish attacking the lure from the hook's side. A nibble or nibbling, that transmits vibrations through the line to you. Sometimes you can see or feel the line vibrate through your semi-slack line. More sensitive rods tell you this much better and more clearly. I believe when the hit is like this (my best guess anyway as I visualize the strike), it is possible that the fish might have taken the lure from the side opposite the hook and the nibbling/vibrations you feel is the fish taking in the bait into its mouth, eventually getting to the hook. Or it is a "cautious" take. C) Bam! An aggressive hit and it's on! The thing I try to key on on the less aggressive bites it to be mindful of the change in something. For example, if I am dead sticking, I know I am not putting input to my "system" of line, rod, and lure/hook. Barring or excluding feedback from strong winds or current, any change in the "system" is most likely a strike or a hit. I regret that I am unable to explain it any better. You can also use a similar approach even if there is current. It is roughly the opposite. You know your "system" is moving along. If something stops it, it could be a hit or you got snagged. A 50/50 chance is better than a zero chance, lol. Back when I started, I also had difficulty feeling those bites as you do now. With focused effort and experience, it will also become a thing of the past for you too.

There is only one way to find out. In the words of the Nike motto, just do it. Just know that in the hands of the average schmoe, most people can not cast 1/8 weights and less with a baitcaster in a significant way and most baitcasters don't seem to fare well either and we know the reels that can. The rod might not flex as it needs to make an ideal cast, but you ought to still cast those lower weights with a little finaggling in the mechanics of your cast. I was able to cast a slightly less than 1/8 oz inline spinner with my rod that was rated for 1/2 - 1 3/4oz with my old curado 201DHSV. I had to "finaggle" the mechanics of the cast to compensate for the lure not being able to properly load the rod for an ideal cast. Still, I was able to get the lure out about 75ft (not that far) without a problem. I imagine that with the right rod, I probably could have gotten farther casts. The specs of your rod are far closer to the UL weights you wish to cast than my extra heavy rod so I would imagine that you should have far better results. If a Curado DHSV can cast such a low weight, I think a reel like you Revo ought to do even better. I hope that you report back with your findings. Good luck!

I don't go for the "all in the same line" philosophy. Heck, rods aren't like golf clubs, lol. I will mix it up based on the needs and not company. As a result, I do not have nor do I subscribe to remaining exclusive to any one manufacturer of rod or reel. In addition, I do not suffer from having to "readjust" or become acclimated to a different set up when I change from one set up to another. Whew!

If you want supple, go Invizx. I've tried other fluoros, and this one seems the most supple.