fishhawk

Try the gold color transition

There are at least three ways to do this. First a new technique is called fick shake where a jig head with a double strand guard is used. For this google Jackal flick shake, others are out there. Second Mustad makes a weedless weighted hook. Third at least a couple companys are making wacky baits with lead or tungsten powder molded in so your hook doesn't need any weight, check Berkleys site for the new heavyweight baitsand try Tru-Tungsten.

I can't fathom the thought of letting anything that tastes like beer out of my sight! Actually Gene Larew was the first to put salt in plastic baits. He sued several companys over copying his idea. The claim is that blood tastes salty so a fish will hold the bait longer. Most that have experimented agree. I prefer Berkley Powerbait or Gulp products over salt. Up here in smallmouth territory it is getting aroung that Gulp is like crack to our brown fish.

Junebug, first sparkplugs for this are most likely NGK surface gap design possibly only available from a Mercury dealer. but before spending the $s try an import parts store that is an NGK dealer. They should be able to order them for you for a bunch less. If they are another brand, try a regular auto parts store. The exact plug designed for your engine is very important, dont' try just any one. Starter price? Don't know, check with a Mercury dealer or talk to someone that rebuilds car starters/alternators, they might be able to rebuild it for you. New proper sparkplugs can't hurt a thing and might help. The fact that you stated in your original post that the engine starts and then dies and once running and warmed up it starts fine leads me to believe that the problem likely lies in your starting procedure. Basic caburated engines need extra fuel to start and also warmup. this need is greater the colder the outside temp is. I'm assuming that your manual telling you to hold your key in before "rolling" your engine over tells me that it uses an enrichment pump. Before investing in starter work etc. try this procedure. First trim it down slightly beyond level. Second prime the bulb till firm. Third turn the key to run [not all the way to start] and push the key in for 3 to 6 seconds [3 if 60+ degrees 6 if 40 or below]. Forth hold the throttle open slightly and turn the key to start while also pushing in the key. Fifth when the engine fires let go of the key but keep the throttle open some watching not to rev it too high. Sixth if it tries to die push the key in only for 1or 2 seconds immediately the second it hints of dying. Seventh each time it hints of dying repeat step 6 until it runs on its own. Pushing in the key adds more fuel for initial startup and also during the warmup. If it is only used before the first fireup it will die out from not having enough fuel to keep it running so keep pushing the key in to keep it running until it wants to keep running on it's own it may take 5 to ten pushes during a 10 to 30 second period depending on the temp. Lastly if if it fails to fire in the first 5 to 10 second let out on the key or it may flood. If you still have trouble have a Mercury tech start it from cold with you present in a test tank or on a hose to see if there is a problem or if there is something wrong with your tecnique. Good Luck... Fishhawk PS write the steps down, I know I couldn't remember all of them!

Junebug, May have good starting advise for you but I'm not sure which starting enrichment system is on your engine. Do you or anyone else reading know if it has choke plates or an enrichment pump motor. Junebug if your owners manual says to turn the key to run and hold the key in several seconds before "rolling" it over I'm sure it has An enrichment motor. When I know which type I'll post the best method for that type... Fishhawk

Built a few flippin sticks for myself and others using recoils. Love the light weight on the long rods, only problems I had were the noise with braid will drive you nuts [don't recommend for braid], and tip grooving even with mono! [use an sic or equiv.]

Just talked to David at Kamakazeebaitco.com he does have the 8/0 ewg's unweighted in stock. He does have more off having weight molded on, be in soon. He also mentioned just getting in some Revenge swimbait heads 1/4 thru 1-1/2oz. He says its an open hook jig head for open water that makes the bait really do the body wobble that people in the know look for.

Gooseboots, is it possible to sink your hinge mounting plates like they are on a home door jamb? If this will work on your setup the carpet will cover all but the pivot of the hinge.

GooseBoots, the last deck I built we used a handheld router to recess the pedestal plate flush with the rest of the deck before installing the carpet. I'm assuming that alot of the really clean builds posted on this forum are done the same way. Not sure what stage your modfications are at but this is some thing that came to me when you mentioned your base plate. thought it might help you or another reader.

Thanks Burley & Fishing Doug!

Which bait is being called the one-knocker. I suspect it's one of the lipless baits like the old cordell version, but don't see "one knocker" mentioned on xcalibers website. I know some of you with the monkey glued to your back know.

Read my post again,tapered head screws tightened flush with the wood then covered with adhesive and carpet are undetectable.

I work on imports for part of my $, I'll probably be by the shop tomorrow I'll look up the wiring diagrams for your truck to make sure it doesn't have some setup i've not seen before. When you can, see how the harness attaches in and post it to give me some more clues. Was the truck already wired or is this the part that Academy did? I,m hittin the sack, I'll check in tomorrow.

It will only use one if the light that flashes on the back of the truck with the turn signal on in a different section of the of the light than the one that lights up when the brake is pushed.

The one I meant as flashing is the turn bulb on the last post, hope this makes sense the Bud light is kicking in a little.

One more question. does the truck have a seperate light that flashes in the back that is a different one than the one that lights up with the brakes. If so it would have to have a logic box either added in for trailer lights or if the truck was built for towing it may have a logic box built in. the reason for a logic box for this potential combo of lighting is because the trailer uses the same bulb filament for both turn and brake.

It has to be between the plug and where the plugs harness attaches to the trucks regular wiring. the harness might be the type that attaches with a connector that goes between two of the trucks connectors or it might be spliced into the wires with scotchlocks [ a red or blue plastic connector] Possibly your ground wire came loose when turning and it pulled on the harness and damaged the connection to the trucks wiring [very easy to damage the connections with scotchlocks]. follow the plug harness up under and see how it's tied in to the trucks wiring.

Are the lights on the back of the truck working when you use the turns or brakes even if the trailer is not plugged in?

I'm assuming your truck to trailer connector is a flat 4 wire, if so disconnect it and with a test light with the ground wire clipped to the one small protruding post at one end of the plug on the truck, this is the ground. Turn on the park lights and touch the probe to the hole next over from the ground post, it should stay lit constantly. touch it to the other two and nothing should happen. Now with the park lights still on turn on the left turn signal, touch the hole next to the ground again should still be constant power. Go to the next hole over and the light should blink, third hole should be nothing. Now turn the signals to right with parks still on,same routine, first constant, second nothing, third blinking. Now turnoff the signal only, leave on the parks and have someone hold the brake pedal down., All three holes should have constant power. This is enough to get you started. If your plug is different there should be corresponding wires that match the signals in each test above. Any questions or if it checks ok we need to move to the trailer wiring next, post your results I"ll try to keep tabs for your response to get this fixed quick. I know this is alot of steps but one bad reading could be the clue to the answer.

To avoid attach screws from showing don"t install the carpet until after the deck is attached. Treat the wood with waterproofer on the bottom and soak the edges down a couple times the top will be sealed with the adhesive and carpet. Screw down the deck with tapered head wood screws, tighten them until flush. Then using outdoor carpet adhesive spread with a notched trowl put the carpet over the board and screws last. Check out the thread started by FishinGirl and check the suggestions gave by myself and many others on different steps of her rebuild

Last resort, Try Berkleys website but pay list price.

Are you redecking an aluminun or a glass boat? What are your attach areas in the boat made of?

A Hawk modified Techna AV with a Revo Premier. Big $ but worth every penny!

Sorry FishCat I didn't read your whole post before my previous reply. Didn't see that your rod was for cranks, the HMG would still be better of the two. The best however may be the Fenwick Elite Tech Crankshaft. A little more money than Techna, but in my opinion it's the best crank rod ever made [3 models]. Check them out on the web. Which ever you buy look into the promotion to get a Columbia rain jacket free! This is a quality jacket not the usual promo junk!

It depends on the intended use of the rod. If you are using worms, jigs,etc. that require "feel " the Techna is worth it. If for moving baits like cranks or spinnerbaits the HMG is actually better....Fenwick Pro Team