fishhawk

They make circuit breakers that attach under your wingnuts on the positive post of your batteries, get one for each battery. The earlier suggested 50 amp will be plenty. If the breaker ever pops there is a small reset button on each breaker.

Wow! DonB looks very professional, great job! Are you volunteering to help Fishergirl?

If your looking for just a simple/cheap mount that doesn't move up and down to get it up out of the water look at Garelicks fixed mounts. Two models bolt to the transom, thethird mounts on the deck. Their website should list dimensions to see if it will on your unused area of the transom. I seen the jackplate on your picture you could make a plate from say about 5/8" minimum thickness aluminum plate that would bolt between the big engine and the jackplate that extends out to whichever side that would best suit your kickers tiller, fuel line etc. It would be wise to attach some wood to the appropriate areas if the kicker clamps on. It might be possible to also make an arm to hook it to the big engine so you can steer with the wheel. If a kicker is locked straight ahead the boat will steer fairly well just turning the big engine as long as the big engine doesn't hit the prop on the kicker. You'll likely need longer bolts to "sandwich" this all together. I would NOT use my bow mount to move long distances at full speed, it will greatly shorten it's life.

I agree with NBR on the marine plywood, it will cost alot more but will last much longer. It's put together with waterproof glue and I think it may also have a chemical treatment to help it last. I'd really soak down the edges several times with whatever you choose as a sealer because this is usually the most porous spot plus water gets trapped there where it butts up to the boat. The top usually is not a problem if you attach the carpet with an edge to edge coat of exterior grade carpet adhesive that Lowes or Home Depot should have. put the glue on with a notched trowel from the same stores the glue will seal the wood. Most of this you probably already know but I'm long winded...Good Luck!

If the cover allows you to run a trailer hook upside down why not use a #1 treble hook like I do? Works for spinnerbaits too!

Thanks Burley I just spit Pepsi on my keyboard!

No there aren't any pads or grass. This time of year a very popular local pattern is throwing a 3/8 oz. Stan Sloan colorado/willow spinnerbait in hot pink. yes I said hot pink. You can get them in any tackle store in the area. Run it 1 to 2 ft off the bank parallel to bluff banks on the main lake and 1st third of the creeks. This is mainly a smally tactic best used on the lower third of the lake [long run]. For largemouths try the same tactic in the back third of these same creeks with a more conventional color. If the largemouths seem farther along towards the spawn try trick/wacky worms in the pockets in the same areas.

Squid, I fish there often. The only map you will likely find is a navigation book sold by the Corps of Engineers. Haven't bought one in years but if still available try contacting the Cincinnati office. It won't show the layout of the creeks, but it shows where they meet the river. You might try calling Dixie Marine in Fairfield, OH to see if they still sell the map someone made of the Markland pool [next pool upstream from Carrolton] As far as where to fish my money is on locking up to Markland Pool and concentrating on the creeks. Lose time locking but many more fish up there. Water in these creeks is very stained but the fish are used to it. Throw Buzzbaits, spinnerbaits, shallow cranks, and flip your dirty water favorites as tight to cover as possible in areas where you see shad activity. Bass in Ohio river creeks will many times be positioned in water so shallow you would swear his back should have been dry. 6" of water is more than deep enough

What are your plans for your decks to protect the wood from water damage? We all want to make sure your efforts will hold up a long time for you. Might have some better or easier ways to get the job done.

Just thought of 2 more questions. Do you have 2 trolling motor batterys in the boat? If not, do you have room for a second one?

Have three Chronarch Mg's, two revo premiers, Two dozen rods, some Loomis some customs built from Loomis glx and imx Three Hawk flippin sticks built from techna steelhead rods [awesome] Value? thousands! tournament I won last year throwing a spinnerbait with a lightning rod I bought from wallyworld for $24.95 15 years ago... Priceless!

Just to be clear is this a straight 24volt or a 12/24? How many holes on your recepticle on the boat now? How many wires run from the battery area to the recepticle now? Do you want to use a "mount in the boat" charger or a universal battery charger? Lots of ways to do this based on your answers.

Also the bass on Monroe usually won't spawn until the 3rd or 4th week of april

Monroe Lake hasn't been a great producer the last few years. if I was coming south I would go a little farther to Patoka. Don't know the current conditions but I've seen it fishable when Monroe is a mudhole. You might try to get ahold of someone at a tackle store or marina there to find out.

A girl with a bass boat and handcuffs! Hope she has a good sense of humor too.

Welcome, I'm real new to the site too, but not new to the sport. Many of the lures on the market today come with high quality hooks that don't need changed. The package or the website of each should tout the brand of hook they use if it is high quality. If you don't fish for money and fame don't change the cheapies but when the fish of a lifetime gets off remember this day!

Thesaurus? Isn't that what ate that dude in Jurasic Park

Without spending a fortune on a Japanese plug try a Heddon Spittin Image. Used to be made by Excaliber. It works as easy as any out there. All walking baits take some practice, and the larger ones usually are easier than the small ones. Use at least 14lb. line, but not flourocarbon because it sinks and will pull down the nose of the bait. Start out by giving it a twitch but immediately give it a little slack by poiting the rod back toward the bait some. The bait should go forward and then turn right or left. As the bait coasts to a stop twitch then slack again. The bait should go the opposite direction and repeat. The first sideways turn is the hardest and the key is the slack after the twitch. Good Luck!

Frog, I contacted Powell Rods myself about your post. Keith Bryan from Powell quickly contacted me back regarding your problem. He tried to respond directly on the forum but had trouble logging on. He asked if I would forward the followig message. And I Quote " If this person broke a rod the first time then he shouldn't pay a dime, no questions asked. If he sent it back to us and if there was no explanation from him detailing this experience then a charge would apply. It's also possible that we made an error, we are just people but in any event, he should not have to pay, period. So I'm not sure where this breakdown is. Typically customers will talk with us and do their diligence before posting something on a site because the entire facts may not be in play in this persons unfortunate experience. Have him call me at Powell. Keith Bryan 415-382-9745" Frog You owe me a cold one...Fishhawk

Try the Sure Grip hook from ohioprolure.com, they are Gamakatsu shiner hooks with a soft wire keeper that works similar to the HP hook. This hook allows using a huge bite with a shorter overall length that will fit most short bodied tubes. 2/0 for small finesse tubes 4/0 or 5/0 for larger ones. Ohio Pro also puts the wire on EWG Superline hooks that work great for flippin larger tubes,creatures, etc.

I'm going to be one that agrees [potentially] with fishing lessons. [potentially] depends on the curriculum, if it's just going fishing and experiencing some techniques I say no. If it involves going over choices in tackle, setting it up properly, fishing efficiently, boat position, gps/locator use, thought processes in locating fish, and the list goes on, I say the money can be well spent. the more experience the student has the less overall they may learn. I say this based on my experience as an instructor for Bassmaster University for 7 years/ Bassmaster Classic qualifier. I've personally taught several pay to learn fisherman and had no complaints on the value of their investment. The things I tell my students is to bring their own boat [ for there comfort/and so I can check out their setup, and see how they control a boat they are used to] and not to be expecting to catch alot of fish [ remember we are focasing on much more during the lesson]. Got your interest back? If so check the instructors resume and ask for references. Contact several of these references and ask if the learned about all the above or just went out to catch fish and then decide.

Hey, just seen the Lazy Ike bait that started the topic. It might be the Wigley Crawler on your package, but when I started throwing them back in the early 70's it was called the Jig Crawler. I used it mostly as a topwater in very clear water. Had to keep the rod high and reel fast enough to swim it on top. Very effective at times.

When you get the ring end open and the old hook eye started under the lifted end put the eye of your new hook over the end right behind the eye of the old one and you can chase the old one off while pushing on the new hook all in one operation.

I'm betting Snagproof made it