Everything posted by A-Jay
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May not be worth the risk. A-Jay
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Fish a drop shot on 6lb test. Long casts on & around steep drops. And whatever you do, do not use a nose hooked SK Rage Craw. Good Luck A-Jay
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I have not used them in a current, at least not one that would unwind them. The 'offset' weight inside the ends seems to prevent that. The bigger problem for me is if it's a little sloppy, besides loosing site of the little buggers, the markers tend to move around sporadically. "I swear it was Right Here!" and then, not so much .. .. .. .. .. A-Jay
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That mod fast blank fishes a lipless bait nicely. A-Jay
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I can tell you how I structure fish as well as deal with the wind. And we both know winter time bassing can be tough no matter where you live. My 'winter time' efforts don't last very long as most everything is usually hard water by early December anyway. Boat position in the wind can be a challenge any time of the year and I use the same basic approach most all the time. When it's blowing enough to affect my presentation, there's a few things I do routinely to put the odds in my favor. First, I do not try to fight the wind. It's a losing battle, especially when fishing mid depth to deep structure. If I can position the boat in shallow(er) water and still reach the structure I want to fish, I prefer that as it’s always easier to hold up in shallower water. Twin Talons work here in water less than 10 or 11 feet; otherwise I anchor. Regardless of anchor system used, I always position the bow INTO the wind. Boat will hold better and will stay heading the same way for the most part. Also I ALWAYS position the boat so I can fish either straight down wind or straight into the wind. NEVER want the wind blowing my line sideways – strike detection is really tough like that. This often means I’m fishing off the stern, but if that’s what it takes – so be it. As for keeping my bearing with no point of reference in deep water applications – A great way to orient yourself here is with the use of “Marker buoys”. I keep a couple on deck or close at hand in situations where I may need them. After getting to or in the case of a new spot, dropping a way point, I deploy one or two in positions that allow me to know where the spot I want to fish is located. Important tip – Do Not drop them right on the spot you plan on casting. Sounds like a no brainer but during the learning stages here I had a few hooked bass get all knotted up in the marker line and it makes a real mess. Put the marker(s) some distance away – but in a manner that still allow you to understand where to cast. This also assists in not totally giving up your spot to interested on lookers should there be any – and as soon as I drop a marker – there seems to be at least one or two. Another tip is to color your markers black, I use black duck tape. Be fore warned though, besides making them hard for others to see, they may elude your site for a while as well. btw - anchoring & marker use in a moving river and / or decent current is a whole different animal and if that's what your doing you definitely need to anchor off the bow every time no matter what and your marker buoy position gets a little tricky as they may drift a ways before the bottom weight touches down. So there’s a few things to think about right there – A-Jay
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Thanks for the heads up .. .. .. A-Jay
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X2 ~ Hello and Welcome to Bass Resource ~ Cabelas Guidewear is a quality product A-Jay
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OK - if you have retained any of your old braided line 50 lb seems to work well, you can use a short section (12 inches or so) to tie a Uni-knot loosely 'around' the mainline in front of the weight. Once positioned where you want it - tighten it down and trim the two bitter ends. Works like a stopper - if the hole in your weight is too large where the knot passes through the weight, you can either double the line or use a small bead between the knot and the weight. A-Jay Yes, And because it's good karma .. .. .. .. A-Jay
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and perhaps leave a suitable gratuity as well. A-Jay
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Unless you are punching through heavy matted vegetation ~ you can & IMO should, skip the pegging. And it you fish a little slower, you might get your arm broke. Good Luck A-Jay
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If you're serious about learning what it takes to improve your 'off the bank' effectiveness. Read Buck Perry's book Spoonplugging. There is a lot to learn and much of it is covered in this timeless Classic. A-Jay
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Great Photo ! Belongs on a Magazine Cover Congrats A-Jay
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Boom A-Jay
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Yes Sir ~ I'm skipping work myself . 10th year in a row .. .. .. .. .. Now I just need some soft water. Good Luck tomorrow A-Jay
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First off ~ my condolences. Being a larceny victim is both upsetting & frustrating. I'd recommend any & All of these big sticks from St Croix's LTB Line. Which one may simply be a matter of personal preference but two things are certain: You'll love any one (s) you choose and they ALL Get the Job Done. TBC73XHF / BIG JIG: Our most powerful bass rod is designed to pull hawgs from the nastiest cover imaginable with jumbo-size jigs. TBC74HF / SLOP-N-FROG & SWIM JIG: Perfect rod for fishing slop and lily pads with frogs and rats. Designed to efficiently cast light frogs. Also recommended for swim jigs. TBC76MHMF / PITCHIN’ & LITE FLIPPIN’: This versatile rod is a great choice for pitching jigs into cover or for lighter flipping applications. TBC79HMF / PUNCHIN’: This heavy power rod with its moderate-fast action is ideal for punching jigs through the thickest of cover. Also well suited for flipping. TBC710HF / SWIM BAIT: A perfect rod for handling a variety of swim baits with ease and efficiency. TBC711HMF / FLIPPIN’: At just under 8', this stick provides just the right combination of power and tip flex for all heavy cover vertical presentations. A-Jay
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Powell Diesel Casting Rod 7'2" Med Hvy 723CEF - This 7'2" 3-power rod may just be the most versatile in the Diesel lineup. A true medium heavy power rod, the extra 2" in length is a real asset with certain techniques. It's a great choice for jigs, Texas-rigs, spinnerbaits, senkos, topwaters, and lipless cranks ... just to name just a few! on sale at TW for $59 Lew's American Hero Speed Spool Casting Reel TW $59 PowerPro Spectra 150yd Moss Green 40lb TW $14.99 A-Jay
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St. Croix Bass X Casting Rod 7'4" Heavy Shimano Citica I Casting Reel CI200IHG PowerPro Spectra 150yd Moss Green 65lb A-Jay
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Before & often during, every outing. A-Jay
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Which in my eyes is one of their most endearing qualities .. .. .. A-Jay
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I'll offer three very decent options. Listed from least $$ to a Little more $$. Whether or not one is markedly better than the other may be a matter of opinion and the conditions one's fishing in. First in the Monofilament category, 12lb or 15 lb Berkley Big Game (I like the Green). Second also in the monofilament category (although TW lists this as a copolymer may not matter), is 12lb or 15 lb Maxima Ultragreen. And finally in the Fluorocarbon category, I like 12lb or 15lb Seaguar InvisX . As a side note to this, if I were flat line trolling for stripers and I had a ton of line out, I'd seriously consider using a 20-30lb braid mainline & leader set up. A-Jay
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Maybe get both. A-Jay
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Perhaps you could consider the third option ~ a composite stick. These rods can offer a nice bend of performance & action; some parabolic sweetness of fiberglass with the light weight sensitivity of graphite. IMO, the best of both worlds. A-Jay
