bigbill

My deepesd crank is the rebel BIG CLAW crawfish crankbait it dives to 10'. The color is characterise with green or black back.

The LMB I the 4 to 6 pound range give me the best fights. I still say the river bass are awesome fighters and much stronger. I have places with northern pike all around me it's time to target them. I purchased all the pike and Musky lures already.

When you find a new fish catching lure how many extra ones do you buy?

Websites; Bass Pro Shops Cabelas Vimage Brannans These are all good places to deal with, brannans is in Texas and those Texas boys sure do know there baits. Some good discounts and buys at vimage too.

Inline spinner or spinner bait? For inline spinner, 1. Mepps Anglian #3 silver blade, Brown tail 2. Joe's Flies 1/4oz bass size in firetiger apache or blackgnat. 3. Panther Martin spin fly #6 silver blade, yellow fly. For spinnerbaits I tweak them. They don't catch fish for me right out of the package. 1. Colorado or indiana blade or blades if twin blades. 2. Silver blades for clear water, gold for Staines water. 3. Blue glimmer skirt for clear water, chartruese skirt for Stained water. 4. Mister twister split double tail grub for a trailer. White for clear water, chartruese for stained water. Don't forget the trailer hook and yum shad scent. You can also vary your blade color between silver and gold for all water conditions.

Kevin22, guys & gals, That's what I'm talking about. They list in the salty section for only $4.20 that's not bad either. With most stuff hitting between $8 to $10 for hard baits we need a break somewhere. When I fish from shore I bring 3 to 5 rod setups. I get laughed at by my buddies but they don't understand that every pattern can require a different action rod and line test for the lure to work correctly. I use 14lb test on my topwater rod, 17lb test on my carolina rig rod, 10lb test on my small spinner bait rod, 8lb test on my medium sized crankbait rod and 6lb test on my small lure rod. But since it works from a boat why not from shore.

Do they last longer than senkos? I use a mix of senkos and the BPS stik o worms to keep senko type fishing more affordable. I can catch more fish stik o worm wise over the senkos. But the senkos work awesome too. There is a cost difference too. I'm not cheap I'm frugal but if the mister twister comida last longer to I can factor in more savings plus add more colors to my senko type bait line up. I really like the mister twister comida in black neon. I just don't see this color of black in senkos. I know that 6" black worms work awesome but how good would the black senkos work? I'm thinking on a tough bite something a tad different in color could make the difference. Sorry guys/gals I think out loud sometimes. Your thoughts are welcome too. I did a test one day fishing some submerged structure using a strike king inline spinner. I pulled out three 2lb bass. A month later I hit it with a crankbait and pulled out two small bass. I tested the Amber flake senko and caught bass again in this spot. The next time the Amber senko didn't work. I put on the gambler electric blue ace and caught fish again. After catching bass on electric blue worms I figured I try the electric blue gambler ace. It's also a senko type bait too. Now the mister twister comida in blue is a lighter blue in color than the electric blue is. Again my feeling about colors being a tad different can make a difference. Now don't throw your other lures away when you have awesome success with the senko type baits. We need to add every pattern and presentation to our arsenal that we can. This means we catch more fish.

When I get skunked, first I know the fish are there and it's me doing the wrong thing. Do I beat myself up for it? No I try to think about what I'm doing wrong or did I leave something home that I should of taken with me. One day I wouldn't accept being skunked. I threw every lure in my arsenal twice, everything. On the second go round I use every presentation I know with each different lure. Then wammo the bomber A in firetiger broke my being skunked. I should of read the water clarity better but it's hard from shore sometimes. Lessons learned. I do find it a challenge. There are many reasons for being skunked. The bacteria or the ph in the water can be off. Or were doing the wrong thing. Sometimes we need to take a deep breath and regroup. Just don't get mad or upset. Remember fishing is a supposed to be fun. We never stop learning.

I do this slack line thing with split shot rigged worms then I become a line watcher for line movement when the bass takes the worm. With my carolina rigged senko I keep the line snug as it falls to feel a strike as it falls. I do lose some casting distance this way too.

Double post sorry

I been eyeing the mister twister comida the senko type plastic has anyone tried them yet? I been wondering how long they last. The BPS stik o worm outlasted the original senko by far. The comida isn't very expensive too. They do offer a few different ones in black too. They seem to offer there whole line up in all there colors were the other ones don't. To me that's one up for a manufacturer and suppliers. Go to there website and look in the salter bait lure section and there discounted section. We all can save some $$. We need to keep it affordable for the youngsters too.

Do not over hand cast, try side casting so the fish aren't spooked. I like to cast past the area where I think the fish are and work my lure near them. I cast past the Lilly pads and stay away from them making the bass come out after my lure. Now with topwater poppers or spooks I like the one, two, three twitch method then pause then repeat it. You move it even three times, then pause. This movement has to be exactly even. The fish look for flaws In our presentations. Now with the spooks and the one, two, three method you will automatically walk the dog by increasing the length of the twitch. Practice it and the fish will let you know when you get it right.

Thts is the hottest topwater lure I have ever used. Both my son's have mastered this lure too. Evey lure that I learn and have success with I pass them on to my son's. I show them the different presentations then there on there own. I like teaching others too. It makes me wonder how many fishermen and fisherwomen carry lures in there tackle boxes but rarely use them? I was one of them at onetime.

I got really lucky I found two used BPS topnocker lures. I figure I can paint them if they need it. I got lucky for now. I wish the fish would stop ripping them off my line. Does anyone else have success with the awesome topwater lure?

My crankbaits are; 1. Bomber "shallow A Squarebill" 1' to 3' in redapple craw, green craw, Brown craw, baby bass orange bottom and firecraw. It's not the squarebill shallow, it's the shallow A squarebill. I'm still using the standard colors with success. 2. Rebel original floater #7 in blue or black. 3. Norman thin "N" in chartruese killer, red ear, sunfish, aposolaps, violet, blue gill. 4. Norman Fat Boy 5. Rebel BIG CLAW crawfish crankbait that dives to 10' D74 I stay with the length sometimes being between plus or minus 2" with all my shallow cranks. This is when the correct presentation really matters. The success of trying a new pattern depends on the presentation, it's not just casting it out and reeling it in. With the #5 big claw I cast it out and give the rod a swept back motion to make it dive down on the spot then I reel it slow enough to keep it down. Since this lures floats you can use it top water too. Your reel speed also determines how deep it will run between 0 to 10'. We use the smaller rebel crawfish lures in rivers for bass too. Just bring it into the back wash behind the rocks sticking out of the water. With the Norman cranks and bomber cranks since they float they can be used either way too. I like to twitch the Norman thin N topwater as it gets dark. Or you can slow reel it too. I use the bomber crank the same way or you can slow reel it. I've caught trout on the redapplecraw bomber. The bomber A series has a finer tone rattle different than the others. I think on somedays the tone of the rattle matters too.

There's a reason I carry a needle nose pliers in my tackle box. I find that the harder hitting fish can actually ruin any crankbait action. On slow days I also take a break the check & tune cranks to make sure they run there best. I always stop and return the erract ones as I fish them. My favorite cranks are the bomber ones. Second are the Mann's. I been purchasing lately the ones from eBay just to test them out for quality. There colors and paint jobs are different. Some of there colors are printed like the square block camo our army uses but it's in all different colors. I figure fishing the same smaller places the fish do learn my lures. So like a baseball pitcher a change up in what we throw is good. It's your call. I'm not saying the other cranks don't work but being disabled my fishing time is limited so I kind of stick with what works for now. When it gets slow I switch to other lures. I had success with one of the BPS crankbaits in chartreuse in stained water. Like I posted before sooner or later I see every lure catch fish. Some just don't have the success right off the bat but it's the water conditions that dictates what we use.

The only problem I see with tomboys is there great gals who can do it all and I love that. But you need to know when she is the sensitive gal and when she is the tougher tomboy side. My son had this problem with one gal and I would of loved to have her for my daughter in law for sure she could do everything. Plus she was smart too. Some guys are intimidated by gals that have the smarts and are hard working.

Very interested in the colors of lures. Let's talk about your hottest fish catching colors of your plastic baits. I been around fishing long enough to remember the black creme plastic worms being one of the first colors used with success. Then there was purple and natural colors etc. Now the market is flooded with all kinds of colors, swirls, two color flakes added, split laminated colors, lighter color outside with a black vein inside I could go on and on about today's crazy color combinations. With me being old school a split shot rig we used in 1970 still works today with a 6" black creme worm. How plastics and the way we use them have changed. So let's share some info about our plastic colors. Here's some of my productive colors; Plastic Worms, Red Shad, Black Shad, Purple, Green Shad, Black, Electric Blue Glitter Senko / Stik O worms; Electric Blue, Amber flake, Pumpkin Flake, Green Shad(baby bass) Creature Baits(bushings); Black red flake, Electric blue I have other colors which I haven't tried yet. I kind of get stuck on what works. I know it's time to throw different colors. Do you use all the colors? If the different colors of the hard baits matters doesnt the colors of our plastics matter too under certain water and light conditions? Any opinions? What do the Pro's do?

I can only say what works for me is a Carolina rig using a 1/8oz weight with a ticker and a 24" leader with an eagle claw weedless hook and wacky rig the senko I use no scent on the first cast. If I get a strike strike and a miss and the weedless barb comes open to prove it then I add a shot of scent so they will hold it long enough for me to set the hook. Don't forget to reuse the smaller pieces of the senkos when they break. To me on a frenzy bite any size will work. With most of the suppliers out of stock color wise with senko type baits mister twister has a sale going on with there's, they are $1.50 for 10 of there senko type baits in the discount section on there website.

Not all lures run the same we do need to check them closely to tune them. There can be little flaws in them this is why out of 4 or 5 cranks being the exact same models one or two if your lucky will catch fish. Rebel lures are good stuff.

I upgraded all my setups to stronger copolymer line and the number of fish I caught went down to nada zip nothing.... I had to switch back to the lower test I was using. You can get away with the topwater setup, the Carolina rig setup but the crankbait setup and the spinner bait setup the fish are line diameter weary in the small places were I fish. I don't like the rubber band stretch of the mono. I have braid on two rod setups but I don't use it.

I swear by the inline spinners and spin flys. I use the mepps anglia #3 silver blade with a brown tail. For stained water it's the mepps Anglia #3 gold blade with the brown tail. You can also use either one with the gray tail too. The mepps "00" black fury I think it is, It's good for trout. For some reason the bass like the strike king inline spinner too the silver blade with the black tail. Then there are the Joe's Fly in his new 1/4 oz bass size spin fly trust me just tie a blackgnat or firetiger apache on.

On my topwater poppers I leave the split ring on them so the snap swivel can be attached to it. I use the ball bearing snap swivels all the time. Even on my Carolina rig hooks. Using snap swivels gives my crankbaits more side to side action. Snap swivels let the cranks actually hinge smoother. Plus I can't tie knots in the dark, I can just tie them in the daylite. I got old so fast.

Has anyone heard or used Akuna Lures?? There on eBay and sold here in MI so far I gather there made here? But not sure, they appear to be custom painted. Some look really good. The cost with free shipping is ok on eBay.

Frog scent @ www.bogbaits.com. I purchased it with some frogs. I have the quick on the draw, topgun style problem with my topwater lures sometimes too. I need to learn to wait till I see the line move to set the hook. It's my fault being way too quick on the trigger setting the hook. I have learned to pause after they miss it so they can do a 180 degree turn to strike it again. It's fun to watch.