Bassyak

That's a great idea, and I'd love to be able to stand in my kayak and flip/pitch/sight fish (though I'd be wary of making any big hooksets). But to me, the ability to reposition my kayak without having to put down my rod and reel far outwieghs the ability to stand up. I have a Hobie Mirage Sport (and previously owned an Outback, but wanted something smaller) and the pedal propulsion system is the best innovation in fishing kayaks out on the market IMHO. Also, after all the modifications I've made to my Sport, I'm confident that I could make my own outrigger system to allow me to stand up if I wanted to, but I'm just not that interested in it. There are also several commercially available outrigger systems available for all kinds of kayaks. In short, I'd have to disagree that that this is the best kayak ever, though I do agree that it is a cool idea.

Anyone know when they'll be available for purchase?

I use a 7' Extra Heavy for my flipping stick (with a Quantum Accurist PT spooled with 50lb Sufix Braid) and I would have to say it is plenty strong. While fishing a Terminator jig last weekend I set the hook on a fish and is straightened the hook. Unfortunately I didn't get the fish, but I was impressed with the power of the rod. And the extreme light weight makes it perfect for flipping all day.

I use an Eagle FishEasy 320C on my kayak and it's a great unit for a small boat. Very compact and has a very sharp color display, even in bright sunlight and wearing polarized sunglasses. I use a small sealed lead acid 12v battery and never come close to running it down. I've been very impressed with it so far.

I just recently picked up a Pflueger Summit on eBay for $105 shipped and it's an incredible reel for that price. A lot more features and smoother than a Trion. I've got both a used Quantum Code and KVD Series for sale right now on eBay if you're interested and you like Quantum.

It's the flipping switch. The F is for flipping and the O is for regular casting. The flipping position allows you to disengage the spool, and while keeping your thumb on the lever, flip or pitch your bait. Then remove your thumb as soon as your bait lands and sinks to where you want it and the spool is immediately engaged for quick hooksets.

I'd have to second the motion on the Pflueger Summit. I just got one (LP not the WLP) in 7.1:1 and it's one of the smoothest reels I've used. Just as light as my Curado 100DSV and with more features. And I paid about $100 on eBay for it vice over $150 for my Curado. I like the Curados too, but the Pflueger's got more bang for the buck.

I've got 4 Compres (3 baitcasters and one spinning) and they're incredible rods for the price. Light and sensitive and very comfortable in my hands. Highly recommended. No experience with Browning, but I do have a couple Kistler Magnesiums. Awesome rods too, lighter than a Compre with the split grip, but also quite a bit more expensive. Haven't used a Worm and Jig Series.

At the price point of the Daiwa and the B&R, you could upgrade the Compre to a Crucial. I have one of each of the Compre (6'6" MH) and Crucial (7'2" ML) spinning rods and I really like them both, though I've only had them a few weeks. I'm also considering the Energy, though, to replace a cheaper spinning rod, and I've heard some good things about it here on the forum. They look really nice and I've seen them on eBay for $70. Unfortunately, I don't have any other info on the other rods you listed.

Those rods are probably an older model that is discontinued. I see them for that same price at an aBay store for Simmon's Sporting Goods, but as far as I can tell they're the old models that first came out 5 or 6 years ago. Check the model number and see if it matches those on eBay and that'll give you your answer. If it starts with "TEC" then it's probably the older, if it start with "PTS" then it's a newer model (though maybe not the newest). Also, if it's not currently listed on Quantum's website, then it's a discontinued model. I'm by no means an expert...I just based this off of my observations and research on the web.

I posted this earlier on a different thread, but it seemed to apply here as well, so here it goes if you haven't already read it: I've been pretty partial to Quantums over the past few years. The previous model Energy PTs were the first "high end" reels that I bought when really getting geared up for bass fishing about 4 or 5 years ago. I still have four of them (2 E600PTs, an E650PT, and an E640PT) and aside from the crappy coating on a couple of them that has started to peel off, they're in great shape--still very smooth and long casters, as well as easy to control with the external ACS. The profile fits my hand well and even though they're a little heavier than my Curado 100DSV and Pflueger Summit, I still use them all the time (espectially the 640 with a 4.4:1 Ratio for crankin'). I also have an '07 Accurist AC500PT and two KVD Signature Series Baitcasters (KV600C w/ 5.1:1 and KV600CX w/ 6.2:1) that are basically the same as the Accurist, minus the silver w/ red accents paint job and a couple other minor features, and they are smooth, solid, and palmable reels for their price as well. They also have the flipping switch that comes in handy. Finally, I have a Code CD870CX that I just got a couple months ago. It's my least favorite Quantum so far, which probably follows as I paid the least for it. I don't like the shape as much and the gearing is not as smooth as any of my other reels. Maybe I just got a bad one, but I don't really care for it and will probably be trading it in for a Citica 100 or maybe another Curado 100 (or I might save up for a bit and try the Pflueger Patriarch). But I imagine I'll be holding on the the others for awhile because they've been good, solid reels for me thus far.

I typically carry 8 in my Tracker with me, mostly baitcasters with one spinning outfit, But if I'm in my kayak, I'll only take 4 and I usually only use 2 or 3 regularly, because it's harder to switch them out. If I'm fishing from the bank, 2 is usually my max because I have two hands and that works out well when carrying them along as I change positions. Bottom line...if it's easy to carry a lot of rods and rapidly switch between them, I'll carry as many as I can get away with, so I can quickly change presentations to maximize my number bites. If it becomes a hassle to carry all I want to, I can easily make do with about 3 rods to cover pretty much all presentations.

I've been pretty partial to Quantums over the past few years. The previous model Energy PTs were the first "high end" reels that I bought when really getting geared up for bass fishing about 4 or 5 years ago. I still have four of them (2 E600PTs, an E650PT, and an E640PT) and aside from the crappy coating on a couple of them that has started to peel off, they're in great shape--still very smooth and long casters, as well as easy to control with the external ACS. The profile fits my hand well and even though they're a little heavier than my Curado 100DSV and Pflueger Summit, I still use them all the time (espectially the 640 with a 4.4:1 Ratio for crankin'). I also have an '07 Accurist AC500PT and two KVD Signature Series Baitcasters (KV600C w/ 5.1:1 and KV600CX w/ 6.2:1) that are basically the same as the Accurist, minus the silver w/ red accents paint job and a couple other minor features, and they are smooth, solid, and palmable reels for their price as well. They also have the flipping switch that comes in handy. Finally, I have a Code CD870CX that I just got a couple months ago. It's my least favorite Quantum so far, which probably follows as I paid the least for it. I don't like the shape as much and the gearing is not as smooth as any of my other reels. Maybe I just got a bad one, but I don't really care for it and will probably be trading it in for a Citica 100 or maybe another Curado 100 (or I might save up for a bit and try the Pflueger Patriarch). But I imagine I'll be holding on the the others for awhile because they've been good, solid reels for me thus far.

I have 3 different 7.1:1 reels, a Pflueger Summit, a Shimano Curado 200DHSV, and a Quantum Code. I only prefer the Summit over the Curado because of it's size and weight as I have relatively small hands and it's easier for me to palm and manipulate the smaller reel when working plastics and jigs. I use the Curado for buzzbaits and Horny Toads because I can just crank on it all day long without palming or trying to keep my fingers on the blank/line. I use the Code for ripping lipless cranks and heavy spinnerbaits, but it's not my favorite reel by a good margin. I don't know what it is exactly, but it doesn't feel as nice in my hand as the others and it's not near as smooth as the Pflueger or Shimano reels.

Anyone have any experience with the new model Quantum Energy rods? They look nice for the price point ($70 plus shipping on eBay).

I have a Tracker PT175 as well and have experienced the same problem as you on certering on the bunks, especially when loading in current on a river. I've been wanting to install some kind of side guides on the trailer to help center the boat on loading, but just haven't had the time/money/motivation to get it done yet. When I don't get it on there straight, I just go ahead and pull it out of the water and see where the hull strakes on the bottom are sitting. Usually I can get in on straight enough that the strakes are sitting on the bunks (sometimes they're just off on the other side) and by pushing on the aft quarter and rocking the boat I can get it to slide over on the bunk and the strakes to drop down in between ther bunks (where they're supposed to be for proper alignement). I'm not a big guy by any stretch of the imagination (5'9", 170lb) and I can get it to slide over just by myself. So that's what I do in the interim until I can get some side guides installed. Hope that helps.

I just picked up a Kistler Magnesium 6'10" MgSJCB610 and I really like it for Texas rig and light jig work. Some people don't think it's that sensitive and don't like the grip, but it fits my hand well and paired with my Pflueger Summit, it makes a very light combo. I would recommend it from the short time I've had to use it. I've used it on three trips thus far and I paid about $150 on eBay, including shipping.

I just got a Shimano Saros off of eBay for $100 and it's got some significant upgrades over the Symetre (I have one of each and definitely prefer the Saros).

I only have one Kistler so far (MgSJCB610 casting rod) but i am very impressed with it on the two trips I've used it on so far. I'm working on getting a second right now (MgDSFWML69S) for some light to medium duty spinning work, like weightless worms, drop shots, and shaky heads. Extremely light and well-balanced. Me likey....

I love my kayak for fishing. It was specifically made for it and that's about all I do from it. I have a Hobie Mirage Sport w/ the pedal drive and it's the ideal kayak fishing platform as I never have to put my rod down to reposition the boat (even if I need to back up, I keep a small wooden canoe paddle on a clip that I can use one-handed). I've got all kinds of rod holders so I can take variety of tackle with me and it has plenty of storage for my bassin' needs. It's almost three feet wide and very stable so I don't typically worry about flipping over (I've been fishing out of this boat for over a year, and before that I had a Hobie Mirage Outback for about 5 years and never flipped either one). I tend to use longer sweeping hooksets to the side vice over head. Also, you'll notice my rod holders tend to be more horizontal vice vertical. This keeps my spare rods out of the way while I'm casting (I've had several bad backlashes by accidentally snagging my lure on another rod during a cast, so I made some modifications). I also added a Eagle Fisheasy 320c depth finder and a gel cell battery for power. I use this mainly for identifying bottom depth and structure vice actually locating fish and it's a great little color unit for the price (about $200 on eBay). I just ordered an anchor trolley kit from kayakfishingstuff.com so I'll be installing that next week. I'm constantly on the lookout for modifications I can make to my kayak fishing trips more enjoyable. It's almost as much fun working on my kayak as it is fishing out of it.

I tried my hand at the shallow water drop shot in heavy cover this weekend with decent results and managed to pick up my first fish on a drop shot ever. I used my new Pflueger Summit spooled with 15lb Stren Magnathin on a Kistler MgSJCB610, and rigged a green goby Sweet Beaver on a 3/0 hook about 18" above a 3/8oz tungsten bullet weight (point down to punch through the lilypads). It took a little practice to get the rig to slide down in the holes in between the pads without hanging the weight off one side and the bait on the other, but after only a couple tries, I noticed my line continue to disappear down a hole in only three feet of water. So I reeled down and set the hook and came up with this three pound beauty. It's definitely a tactic I'll continue to use and refine.

I just picked up a Shimano Saros 2500 on eBay for about $99. Solid reel, just a couple steps up from the Symetre (I have one of those too). Haven't caught any bigguns on it yet, but when I set the drag it felt pretty smooth.

I have an '02 Tracker Pro Team 175 with a 60HP Mercury and 42lb thrust Motorguide and I've really enjoyed it thus far. I don't typically take it out on really big lakes that often ('cause there aren't that many around here) but you can get a little wet sometimes when the chop or swell is big or when crossing another boat's wake. The only other things that I don't like about it are the design of the rod locker (you have to move your rods on deck to open the locker and it narrows down quite a bit at the end making it difficult to get rods in and out sometimes) and the trolling motor battery that came with the boat (that I have since replaced with an Optima and had nothing but trouble-free performance). All in all a good starter boat for the price, especially with the galvanized trailer with the swing-away tongue (without which I couldn't store it in my garage). One thing to remember with a new boat--always check the drain plug before you back down the ramp. Nothing makes your heart leap into your throat faster than seeing water coming up through the vent holes in the deck of your boat after you just parked the truck and trailer 200 yds away from the boat launch. A bass boat holds a remarkable amount of lake water and it takes awhile for it to all drain out into the parking lot after you managed to get it back on the trailer in the nick of time. Just a helpful hint from someone who's gone through it--twice.

I agree with the Bazooka. I've had one for several years now and use it to travel back home to Texas and fish with my dad. Works like a champ. The only thing it could really use is a pair of wheels to help roll it thru the airport, but I've seen some newer models that have these. Make sure you get some of those TSA approved locks for it though, so they won't cut yours off. Also, I make sure and wrap my rods with a towel and secure them with some velcro straps to keep them from rubbing on each other. But I just ordered some of the rod socks from BPS and I'll be using those in the future to prevent any damage in transit.

I used to have a regular lead acid battery in my '02 Tracker PT175, but I had so much difficulty keeping it properly watered and charged that I finally bit the bullet after a year or so and bought an Optima dry-cell (blue top) for my trolling motor battery (I still have a regular lead-acid cranking battery for the outboard). Since I bought it in '03, that Optima has given me absolutely no trouble and has solved all my battery headaches. In fact, when I took my boat out for the first time this season, I had forgotten to put it on the charger before I went out, and it ran like a champ for 6 hours of fishing even though it hadn't been charged since October of last year. Yeah, they're quite a bit more expensive than other batteries (~ $150), but I'd get another one in a heartbeat if I ever get another bass boat. Hope that helps!