Skinnyh2ofishin

I like 'em pretty pounded! Like Bassin-Fin@tic said, as long as it doesn't end up losing most of the paint on the first outing (unless it's THAT good an outing!) then I'm happier with a bait that looks like it's been mauled. I will usually try to prolong the life of the paint as long as possible, but little scuffs and chips are fine with me. Actually, years ago I read about a study that showed that bass in a tank repeatedly preferred a dull or flat colored bait to the same color bait with a glossy coating, but since fisherman like shiny new lures, lure manufacturers still went with the glossy colors. This might explain why some baits just keep getting better with age!

Thanks SPEEDBEAD. Like I said, the chips don't really bother me in terms of performance as I too have many baits that only seemed to improve in number of hits the more damaged they were. I just didn't want the paint to start actually peeling off, since the chip on the fin actually has a little flap where the paint is lifted and I thought it might continue to peel. It's just such a nice looking bait I don't want it to look that destroyed until it gets destroyed by some monster bass! It took a lot just to throw it in the first place, but once I did I was well rewarded.

My favorite "fluke" by far! Since my fishing is split between bass fishing and saltwater fishing, the Slug-Go is a staple in all of my fishing as it works perfectly for both situations. It's one of the best lures you can use on the flats here for reds, snook, and trout, when the grass grows up and mats in the shallows, and that makes them great for bass too!

That's actually a tough call between the options you have. Of them, I voted for Bass Magic, because I have the most experience with them, but I really find all the ones mentioned pretty similar in overall performance. The Yum do have the belly slot, but i cut the slot in all my hollow belly swimbaits to do the same thing and it works fine. I'm more partial to the hard swimbaits like the Spro BBZ shad and especially Matt's Hard Gill (I'm still haven't thrown the big baits because I don't have a rod to throw them yet). The hard ones are more expensive but given the cost of each pack of hollow bellies, it doesn't take going through very many before you've caught up with the cost. But since you're just getting into trying swimbaits the hollow bellies you named will all work fine for you, just pick the one that comes in the size and color you want and go tear 'em up.

That's right, my Hard Bluegill is damaged....after a great day on the lake! No pictures as none of them were huge with the biggest only a hair under 4lbs, but that was also the average weight for the fish today, which is great for the small lake I was fishing. Can't wait to get out to my big bass haunts and toss this sucker! Back to the problem, if you can call it that. The damage is very minimal and only cosmetic as a couple of chips occured on the dorsal fin and tail section. I'm fine with the little white spots as all my favorite baits look like they've been to war, but given the amazing paint job on this bait I just want to minimize further chiping from those spots. Since I also flyfish and tie my own flies I was just planning on dabbing a little epoxy on the spots to seal them, but thought I'd check here first. Has anyone touched up their hard gills this way, or if you have what did you use? Epoxy sticks to about anything, but I always like to check with others first if I don't know what the material of the lure is to see if anyone else has had compatibility problems. Lastly, though it's been said, it can't be said enough...What an awesome lure this is!

I fish from a kayak, so I don't need a normal boat ramp, but as was already said there are lots of ramps in the canveral national seashore area. But with the shuttle launch being postponed over and over again you may want to wait till they finally get that thing off the ground so it'll be open. Even if you get out there and it's closed though, there are plenty of ramps along the Indian and Banana River that will put you in productive water. The lures have been covered so I won't add anything. One VERY important thing though is if you're going to take your boat out there, get some maps of the area and learn them. There are tons of guys out there tearing up the flats because they don't bother learning where they're boat will float, or they drift up onto a flat that's too shallow to get on plane from and they crank up and dig up the bottom anyway until they get up. Just another small warning, if you haven't caught redfish before be prepared to be a little disappointed the next time you catch a bass after your first good red! Good luck!

I grew up fishing from the bank along all the small ponds here in Central Florida and though I have other options now, I still enjoy heading out on foot from time to time. As Fishing Rhino said, there are plenty of disadvantages, especially the losing of lures which you'll just have to become accustomed to (or go swimming). But it can still be very productive and in fact, all but one of my biggest bass to date were caught while fishing either from shore or wading. I agree with Fishing Rhino about stealth. Trout fisherman don't rush along the bank searching for fish, and while bass certainly aren't trout, they are still wary of things stalking them from the shallows. Be patient, walk softly if you're at the waters edge, and agian following FR's advice, try to aviod fishing with the sun at your back. The next step is actually fishing. One of the biggest problems with being shorebound is the amount of gear you can carry. This is really less a problem than we make it. Before you head out, evaluate the weather conditions, possible lake conditions and what lures you have confidence will catch fish that day. Then just take the gear that you can carry comfortably, there's nothing worse than falling off a rock, or slipping down a steep/muddy bank into a lake with your entire tacklebox on your back and three (or more) rods in your hand! My philosophy when shorebound is if I can't fit it in a pair of cargo pants then I don't need it...and I only need one rod. Not everyone feels this way, and they've found great ways to carry more gear, it's just not my thing. Lures you'd use are all the same as if you were on a boat. Even deep divers can be handy in rocky or timber filled areas as they deflect well and they can also help you learn the bottom composition. If you don't have time to walk the bank of the whole lake/pond, then pick out areas of the pond that look the most productive and fish those hardest and just scan cast the rest. Just remember, a small lake or pond is the same as a large lake, only smaller!

I've been having the same problem with my red PP. It's the first time I've used the red and while all the braid colors and brands I've used have lost their color this is the first time that it's come off all over my reel, hands, and everything it touches. The crazy thing is I even reeled all the line off the reel and onto another bc while running it through a cloth soaked in rod and reel cleaner, then reeled it back onto the original bc through the cloth again, TWICE and it's still coming off when I fish with it!!!! As for the magic eraser, it does a great job on everything else I've tried it on so it might work, but I guess it depends on how much the cork actually soaked up the color. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

I wouldn't know if what you're seeing are shad or not, but if they are minnows then there's a good chance the bass chasing them are fairly small anyway. Of course, once and a while you'll catch a much bigger fish from a school full of small ones. I fish a lake that frequently has schooling action on 2" long or less minnows and the bass practically won't touch a bigger lure pulled through them. I've found a small jigging spoon, about an inch long or so, works well for reaching far off schools and will imitate an injured minnow very well. Also, I've found some of my best big bass action by fishing baby bass colored topwaters (especially Super Spooks) over the schools of smaller bass. I started doing this more after hooking a fingerling size bass from a school and actually having a bigger bass take a swipe at him on the way in. Just fish it like it's a small bass that got injured in the fray and don't be afraid to dead stick it where the school was.

Jigs are tough in the rock because, like you said, it's not the hook getting caught, it's the head sliding between the rocks. The slingshot technique mentioned already has saved me countless times since I learned it fishing with a guide in Alabama years ago. It doesn't work every time, but i've found that with enough practice it's pretty effective. One tip is to use that technique as soon as you get hung up rather than trying to pull it free first. Try to stay in contact with your jig and as soon as you feel it stop and you know it's not a fish, give it a light pop with the slingshot technique and quickly lift the rod to pull the jig up and over the rocks if it comes free. Aside from just trying different retrieves and hangup removal techniques and equiptment, if you're catching fish in the rocks then just determine how valuable those fish are to you. I go through a lot of toads fishing slop here in FL, and I just figure in $10 or so into the cost of my fishing for the day for the packs I'll use. Granted I'm losing mine to fish and not rocks, but again, if you're catching fish with jigs in the rocks then what are ya gonna do?! If the fish are feeding more aggressively, you could always try fishing a crankbait in the same colors as the jigs that have been working for you. I find a good deep diving crank bounces off the rocks much better than a jig, but you're still gonna lose one occassionally. Just keep trying and give 'em H--l!

Well, I would say just go fish a few, as that's what I'd do but Florida's regulations tend to be a little more lenient than some of the northern states I've fished in. You might want to check your local Fish and Wildlife Department or look through your states' fishing reg's and see if there's anything that sounds like you aren't allowed to fish roadside ponds. My guess would be if it isn't posted anywhere and you aren't restricting/endangering traffic to park and fish there, then you're probably okay to try it. Just go fish them the same way you'd fish any other lake in your area as there might not be much fishing pressure there. If you don't have any luck just downsize your lures and give 'er another go.

ChiCityBasser, I too bought the Worm/Jig rod during the clearance and mine was H instead of MH as well. I think it's a misprint on their site because I thought it odd that the lure weight on these rods was 3/8-2oz yet all the other MH's are rated for slightly lighter lures. Nonetheless, while I was disappointed at first, I really like the rod for my heavier soft plastics and jigs and it even makes a great short distance spinnerbait rod. Like everyone else though, after buying the worm/jig and finesse flipping rod, with that awesome clearance I now feel I should have added a couple more to my order! Oh well, there's always next time.

I actually haven't had those problems with the Rage Shad. Granted they don't ever seem to last long enough, but neither do Horny Toads when the fish are slammin' them. Comparatively though I've found the shads to last just as well as any toad I've used. If the fish are really killing them I just figure I'm going to go through a pack or two of any soft plastic I'm using on the thick stuff. As for the Mend-it glue, I don't think it will solve your problem with the tail ripping. I have a bottle and it really does work great and saves me tons of money on flukes and senkos. BUT, while it works perfectly for fixing a torn head or skin-hooking area of baits, the area fixed is still a little less durable than the remaining plastic. The Rage Shad has so much movement and action in the tail that I think its own movement would re-tear the spot you fixed, although I haven't tried this myself.

I'll second the lube recommendation. I've used that style of hooks for years and despite having many twist-lok hooks myself now, I still use these hooks regularly. Again, like someone else said, it does somewhat depend on what bait you're using. I use them for flukes on occasion and with larger worms and lizards and haven't had any problem with them yet. Just be sure to insert the hook a little further into the head of the bait to allow a little more plastic to take the abuse of being stretched over the weight. I've used water in a pinch, but oil-based attractants are perfect for this. Just go slowly and it should go fine and save you time and line from retying all the time.

I love flukes just about any way I can fish them. I usually use them weightless in shallow water like everyone else, but they work great in a variety of applications. I've had great success using them like toads, t-rigged with a screw-in (florida rig) bullet sinker and dragged across mats of vegetation. When the fish don't want as much action as a toad the fluke works like a "finesse" toad. Plus their shape allows them to slip through vegetation easily, allowing me to drop it in any hole it comes to along retrieve and it'll slip quickly down beneath the mat and also come pretty cleanly back out to continue the retrieve. I've also used "too much" weight with success as a simple swimming jig-type lure. Again I use a Florida rig weight, between 1/8 and 3/8oz depending on how fast I want to work the fluke. This works great when bass are schooling, and when they're more active in deep water as it can be cast very well and using a quick snap jig-like retrieve the fluke will jump up and down through the water column very erraticly which is great for a reaction bite. If you start using flukes regularly I'm sure it won't be too long before you, and many bass, are hooked!

I tend to like jigs with rattles, but all of my jigs have rattles so it might just be my tendency to buy models of jigs that come with rattles. I do feel it gives me a little more confidence that the jig will attract attention which allows me to slow down fishing it when otherwise I'd get impatient. My trailers are usually just softplastics that I otherwise use by themselves. I like Netbait Paca Craws if I want the jig to fall slowly, other brands of craws for a faster fall, and zoom flukes for an extra fast fall. As for scent, I use it occasionally, and either garlic or craw flavors.

I actually just saw this years Bassmasters Classic highlight show this morning and they had Skeet on talking about this scenario. He was asked about why he used the chigger craw texas rigged on the final day instead of on a jig and he said that the fish seemed to be biting on a more subtle presentation that day. That's pretty similar to my feeling on the difference, being that even though the two presentations you mention are similar, the jig will still have more bulk to it overall and sometimes the more clean and simple t-rig will get more bites. I also like the t-rig in extra thick stuff because I feel it gets through easier than a less streamlined jig.

Well, I have fished the Destin/panhandle area a number of times but always saltwater, never fresh. Depending on your mobility, if you drive down or have a rental car, there are definitely plenty of opportunities there for you. If you do intend on doing some saltwater fishing, there are plenty of places in the intracoastal or on the beaches that you could find via google earth or on the Florida Fish and Wildlife website (www.myfwc.com). As for lures, local knowledge will really help so just check a baitshop in the area. You can't go wrong with some form of topwater (Chugbugs and Superspook Jr.'s are my favorites) in just about any color and a silver or gold weedless spoon in 1/4 or 1/2oz size. Just be sure to thoroughly clean your gear the second you get back to where you're staying. As for freshwater, all the bass gear you use anywhere else will work here so don't worry about specific lures, and anywhere you find a pond or canal along the side of the road, there's the potential for good bass. You can also find some info on the FWC website I mentioned as to the bass fishing opportunites in that area. Good luck!

Redsyn- nope not kidding! I probably didn't explain that well enough since I didn't think it mattered being that the topic was on bass fishing. On my saltwater reels I still do use a mono backing to keep the braid from spinning on the spool and to add a little cushion, I just use much less backing than I would for my freshwater reels. The difference is instead of just using braid for the last 75 yards of line per reel on my freshwater reels, I fill the spool completely on the saltwater reels. I do still have a connection knot in the line, but it's down near the hub of the spool instead of 75 yards in. That way if a fish runs off 150 yards of line (or more) it's all braid and I don't have to worry about the knot catching the outgoing line in the spool. I don't worry about the connection knot breaking as much as I worry about the knot itself catching the outgoing line during a screaming run and potentially snapping the line from the sudden shock. I've had this happen on casts when I tried to squeeze too little braid on a rod and made a long cast. Mind you, most of my saltwater fishing is inshore flats fishing and most all my setups are 2500 or 3000 series spinning reels max, and for bc reels I use standard size low profiles so I don't need to go much smaller on my reels here. I think I saw that you're in L.A., so we're probably doing much different kinds of sw fishing. Everyone does different things that work for their type of fishing. My stuff probably wouldn't come close to adequate where you are!

I can rig it in every single rigging technique I now. Absolutly....... I agree, they work for everything you can think to use them for. As for hooks I like a 2/0 or 3/0 light wire hook (straight, offset, or EWG is up to you).

Quit fishing cranks and you won't lose a single fish on one again! Just kidding, sorry, had too much coffee this morning. I've never tried those particular hooks, but I use the Daichi or Owner 3x or 4x trebles as well as SureSet trebles on the tail hooks with success. I've actually had numerous fish that were hooked only on the single large hook of the SureSet. But your choice should work fine for you, I just feel like the initial hookup potential is lower with inward pointed hooks. As long as you have good, strong, SHARP hooks you should be fine. After that it all comes down to adapting the way you play the fish. Obviously mono and a more forgiving rod will up your chances of keeping pressure on the fish without tearing the hooks out, but it can still be done with what you have. It just takes more finessing of the fish during the fight.

I too have done this for many years. Actually, I started doing it after I first started using braid because I figured I was doing it to save on how much braid I used so I could obviously save on mono the same way. The only reels I don't do this with are my saltwater setups, because then there's the real possibility of getting spooled by a fish so I don't want an extra knot in the middle of my spool.

I agree with TommyBass, as long as they weighed everyone's catch the same then the results would be legit. As far as the decimals, I know there are some digital scales that use decimals and others that weight in lbs/oz. but I can't think of brands off hand. I've also seen many table/weigh-in scales weigh in decimals also.

You CAN'T fish it wrong! Just as the great advice that has already been given, let the fish dictate what they want. Everyone has a story where the fish would hit when the lure was barely moving one day and another day they just about couldn't reel the lure back to the boat fast enough! Change up your retrieve every few casts until the fish tell you what they want and just pay attention to exactly what you're doing with the lure on each cast so you'll know what it was you were doing.

As D4u2s0t said, ask 100 people and you'll get enough different answers to buy the entire soft plastics aisle! And as Roadwarrior said, sometimes that Exact color matters. But, confidence plays a huge role in your selection. If I had to pick two colors to fish for the rest of my life they'd be watermelon (with any flake color really), and junebug. They are my confidence colors because they've worked for me over the years, but I came to them not because I analyzed the lake conditions and decided, but becuase I was five years old when I first started fishing with lures and those are the colors I was given to fish with by people who had more experience than I did. They've caught me so many fish over the years that I have more confidence fishing those colors than any other now. Granted, now ofcourse I burden myself with the questions of conditions and etc., in my decision, but those two colors handle all my conditions so it's one or the other usually! Take the advice you get here (dark colors=dark/murky water, light/transparent colors=clearer water, etc.) and then buy what you feel most confident you'll fish with. If you like the color you're using you'll spend more time actually fishing the worm than holding the hook in your hand deciding which color to try next!