SirSnookalot

I tried to go snakehead fishing a few times this week, but I felt like Buck in a Jack London novel " Call of the Wild" and had to go fish saltwater. Maybe this week I'll head south, have the incoming so if the weather is calm I'll go for cuda and if the weather is rough I'll go for snakeheads.

I don't know how big they run where you are at, in Florida torpedos are quite common 35-50". They are one tuff hombre, imo anything but a junkfish. They fight real hard, can make long runs, acrobatic, maybe the most elusive fish I have ever fished for. By that I mean using artis as opposed to live or cut bait, which is much easier. I have had times where I've casted for several weeks and not even seen one, then they will follow your lure and at the last moment just veer away, or may take a swipe at it and miss the hook, when they do strike it's a torpedo at 30mph that will grab the rod from you if you aren't holding on. The hook up ratio is low. I mainly use 14# mono on 25'lb class spinning rod, 4000 reel. Now this is how you catch them, and be patient, you will not catch 50 in an outing......lol. The smaller ones will hit jigs, spoons, topwater, most any kind of lure, don't use plastics. The bigger ones are the elusive fish to catch, and without a doubt nothing beats a barracuda tube. . . I would not use anything smaller than 3/0 treble and on my tubes I use 12/0 limerick hook. A limerick hook has a bend in it and that's what makes it spin, although a non spinnning tube is effective too. I just made up a 1oz diamond jig with 7# surgical tube trailer, I have high hopes for this set up. It's about tide and water conditions. Cudas like flat, calm, clear warm water and the last 30 minutes of incoming tide is best, not that can't be caught other times but it's way harder. At the end of the tide they start coming around like a wolfpack, where there is one, there are more. You can always free line a bait fish, which is the easiest way. I can't emphasis this more, calm clear water......I don't fish them unless I have these conditions. I'd be remiss if didn't mention ciguatera, reef disease. Yes, it's a fact but the fish does not manufacture, it comes from the reef and works it's way up the chain of fish. The smaller cuda are less prone to have it, but I've yet to see anyone turn down a 40" cuda for the dinner table. You could just as easy get the disease from a snapper. Once you get past the smell and clean the slime off this fish you won't find too many fish that taste better, flakey white meat without a gamey taste. Why it isn't considered a game fish is a mystery to anyone that fishes for them. Elusive, hard fighting, great tasting.......it's as sporty a fish as there is.

I think snap swivels are a bit bulky and I prefer a duolock for freshwater fishing. The real truth is, they do not impair the movement of the lure at all and I see no negative to them, except what;s rattling around in your head. As POPRG says, no problem with them in saltwater, I see guys catching very big fish using the cheapest Walmart snap swivels without failure. As forum members, whether it be bass, trout, stripers, offshore or whatever, we look at ourselves as being a cut above the average fisherman and try to emulate the professionals and I am no different. I personally think the real reality is that it makes less difference than we think.

If I buy something new I keep at it until I do catch something with it. Nothing works all the time, and everything works some of the time. A lure manufacturer is not going spend the time and money to market a lure that has been a failure in their own testing. If it's on the shelf, it will catch fish.

Without being there I'd be willing to bet you're breaking due more to heavy cover than the fish itself, you may surprised how big a fish 10# mono can handle in open water. Outside forces cause lines to break, improper drag, abrasion, dragging in heavy vegetation along with the fish, poorly tied knots, the list goes on.

My first thought is an 8# leader strong enough, I personally like my leaders a little more consistent with the strength of my main line, I'd have no qualms in using a 20# leader, your braid is still stronger. I have lots of left over 20# p-line flouroclear and that's what I mostly use for freshwater leaders, thin and strong, straight 20# p-line has landed many 50+# fish for me. I never had the need to watch lines, even using dark green braid at night, the line tells me what's going on without seeing it. Technology is great, but doesn't replace fishing instinct, using both will get you more fish.

I guess just about everything has happened in 60 years of fishing. I'd lop off one of my non functioning testicles to be Catt's age, he's still a kid.

Most combos I have seen come with 2 piece rods, and they are fine to get started with. The rods will come apart every now and then but it is no big deal and not a game breaker, I don't see any need to glue them together. I think there is more advantage in comfort (weight and balance) on a better rod compared to sensitivity.

I would consider want size rod I was mounting it on. On a 6'6 med 6-12# rod I use a supreme 30, on a 7' med 8-17# I use a supreme 35, 10# & 15 # braid.

Tie up your tomato plants.

Off the top of my head the only remake I thought better than the original was Cape Fear. Once you have seen Errol Flynn in Robin Hood, is there a point to seeing it redone?

Even after that build up I still can't a fish.lol Backing is more economical, I'm just in the habit of full spool of braid and just add as needed, only my initial spoolup is more costly. My point is was from a slippage issue, I still use tape and a knot on "braid ready" reels. I don't know either and I spend a lot of time out there. When I do tie line to leader I use the alberto, and it's rare for me, I use it only when I'm specifically fishing for species that will strike the swivel as quick as the lure ( spanish mackerel).

Pass thru the trunk, room for about 6 rods, 8 footers with room to spare.

Braid casts far enough on it's own with the need for additional expense, braided lines manage just fine out of the box. Unless you need to cast more than 50 yds. like on the surf past breakers, distance is over rated, and if you do need to rods are made to cast that far.

Braid will not slip if tape is on the spool, knot tied over the tape. Some reels are " braid ready", requiring no tape or backing. Backing is a good idea if one chooses not to fill the entire spool with braid, and popular for freshwater use. I never use backing, I fill the entire spool, the braid last me quite a while before I change or just add about 75 yards. I don't mind spending the money.

Is there a difference in keeping a few fish for feral kittens and helping someone in need? I have no problem in giving some fish to people that need it to feed their family, if they are that bad off I've been known to give them a cash donation. I don't really like being pestered either, but if it's a routine run of the mill fish I ask them if they want it. I know this is a bass forum and people can debate c&r until they are blue in the face. Bass are fun to catch, and plentiful in Florida, enough to go around. I just can't put them on such an elevated plateau above all other fish or people for that matter.

Follow the steps on this video

I only fish braid and only use spinning gear, I always use leaders and swivels for a few reasons. A mono leader is much easier to unravel from my lure hooks and it does happen. Tying your leader is fine if you are not using lures than spin like spoons and flukes, on the fluke make sure your hook is perfectly centered, this will help in avoiding it to turn over. Don't think for that braid does not get line twist , it does and a swivel helps somewhat. I also use the swivel as sort of a handle if I'm picking up larger fish like off a sea wall, don't handle the braid, you can cut yourself. Most 20# braids breaking point is over 30#, some over 40, I prefer using a strong leader, I use 20# in freshwater and saltwater I use 30 or 40#, I don't want to weaken the line chain by using 10# leader for example. Using a loopknot your lure will have the action it's meant to have. I have no problem with braid floating, a jig or bullet weight takes the line right down. Figure out what is best for you by your own experimentation.

I'm up in Delray, for the most part the canal fishing around here has been poor all year, but residential ponds have been pretty good. For me anyway I've seen the bass fishing cool down quite a bit in the last few weeks, this is the time of the year when I put bass on hiatus until December. I did catch but one yesterday 5-6# in the late afternoon, the beach fishing is starting to improve, I hit Juno in the morning.

If I limited my fishing only to freshwater, or only inshore or only offshore, I probably would own no more than 4 combos, but I fish all 3. I'm overstocked on my inshore rods, probably because that's what I like doing best. As it stands I'm in the market for nothing and most likely will only buy if I need to replace something. Yeah right ! lol

Great thing about fishing is ...........you make the rules. I fish leaders with swivels, whether it's braid or mono. The overwhelming majority of my fishing is done with 10-15 or 20# braid on spinning gear. I select the line based on the size rod and reel combo, along with how thick the cover is and target species. Most 20# braided lines will break between 30-40#, the issue becomes which one you like best for management, I don't think strength is the major concern, I've yet to have a 40 pound fish break 20# braid. I use PP and Fins, I buy the one on sale.

I know you don't mean all aspects, I jig for many different species, I use a butterfly jig with 50# braid, 15-20# braid flipping jigs under SW docks and same line for surf. For my bass fishing I use 15 # braid and usually a 1/2 oz jig, pretty much covers the type of water I fish. I seldom use mono or copoly line for anything.

Great place to fish !!!!! Nothing I love more than fishing the surf, in fact I'm going to Hobe Sound to do some this morning.

Many really large fish pretty much hook themselves with their weight, power and speed, I'd pay more attention to how well the hooks are attached, bad split ring or bad knot. Not saying hooks should not be in good condition but a fish striking at 30 mph will get hooked with a substandard hook. IMO most fish that are lost are due to just a few things: 1.weak spot in the line chain 2: rod or line not heavy enough to horse out of thick cover. 3: the unusual larger fish than expected or other species fish, gear just too light. 4: user error, not understanding how to play a fish, not using the reel drag correctly, panic and being too excitable.

Not pitting one line against another, but the number on the label is only a number. If a 6# line breaks at 10# it's a 10# test line. Highest breaking line with the diameters being the same imo determines the strongest, the number on the label is guide for reference. That said, thin and strong is a good thing, but I do believe Ande is the benchmark for IGFA records, the breaking strength is close to the number on the label, but I may be wrong. I have read conflicting information so I really don't know the real truth as to the strongest line out there. FYI, I did read spiderwire ultra cast was the strongest braid, but may have been 1 person's test. All this info aside, I'd be looking at the line that I felt manages the best, I haven't had much problem with any lines breaking under normal conditions.