cadman

I also agree, very nice looking jigs. I love the top one. I know my wife would definitely throw the pink one since she has had some luck on that color in the tournies she fishes with me.

Wow those are nice. Job well done.

The second one in this series is just fabulous. If the picture is that good, I can just imagine how it would look in real life. Just beautiful. :Applause: :Applause:

That looks very cool. Is that the bloody series skirts? Wow it looks better on a jig than it does just as a skirt tab. When you say you've done well with these are you referring to fishing them, and if so what season(s) if I may ask?

I currently only use Devcon 2 Ton and E-tex. I cover the entire jig which works for me and adds protection for the jig as well.

FuzzyGrub, We must have been seconds apart when we both posted. That was weird. Check out the posting time??????

A standard Do-It mold costs anywhere from about $30 - $45 each. That is a basic round head mold all the way up to spinnerbait molds. They also have production molds and production machined molds that are well over $100 each.

For the money and quality, you can't beat a Mustad Ultra-Point Black Nickel Hook. Do not use jigs with bronze hooks. They are notorious for rusting, if you don't let them thoroughly dry out before closing the lid on them. However you should be doing this always, anyway whether you use jigs or crankbaits. Now Eagle Claw is re-tooling with a new hook called a needle point, with a black pearl finish. I will probably start adding these to my selection of hooks. They are very, very sharp. Finally if you are a Gami, Owner or Trokar fan, there are far and few molds that accept these hooks without some mold modification. Story has it like this from many guys I sell jigs to. These hooks are great and they are the sharpest out of the box, however you can easily roll the points on these hooks which makes them dull very fast, so for the money that is why I personally don't use them, also they are very expensive. There are guys that only fish these hooks and nothing else, however that is a personal choice. Just my two cents worth.

Crankenstein (I like your screen name). So here is the info on your questions. 1. This is is tough question. If you are not going to sell jigs to your friends down the road it is cheaper to buy jigs in bulk. Even if you fish 30 jigs a year it is still cheaper to buy bulk jigs. By the time you buy the molds, lead (maybe you can get it free), pot to melt the lead, hooks, it will run well over $200.00 However I do suggest you learn how to paint and skirt them, this way you can make the colors you like. 2. Buy a Lee IV bottom pour pot. You will not be sorry. 3. The best material is not alweays the best . I like round silicone skirts, because they have more action in the water. However their colors are limited. So what most guys buy is flat silicone. Get them from fishingskirts.com, he has the biggest selection and the best prices. 4. You can get away with a tube type of skirt tool. I believe it is $6.00 at fishingskirts.com and this tool will do the job for tab style flat silicone skirts. As far as assembly goes, you can hand tie your skirts with wire or thread. You can also use the rubber collars, however they don't last long as they have a tendency to dry out and stretch. This is more common on spinnerbaits than jigs. If you want some more in-depth info on hand tying and painting, IM me your e-mail, and I will send you a bunch of tutorials that will get you started .

Wow very nice. I've done something similar on spinnerbaits with decals and Chicago sports teams. They always come out beautiful if you take your time. Very nicely done. I like them all. I really love those crappie baits just awesome.

Yes, I have done exactly what you are suggesting. Base coat in powder paint and then air brushiong Createx over the bait. You will get a bait that will look spectacular if you can use an airbrush. The only problem I have had is the paint from the air brush wants to blow all around on a slippery powder painted finish. You can lower your air pressure though. Also with using powder paint and Createx, it just seems like a lot of work for jigs and spinnerbaits. (JMHO) I can powder paint all of my jigs the way I want and I'm happy. They don't look knowhere near as good as the crankbait works of art here, however they are jigs and I lose a lot of jigs, so I don't know if it justifies the cost of doing that. However, we all do things for our own reasons. On the weight of the paint and epoxy, I find that a mute point. Jigs are heavy and so are spinnerbaits. I clearcoat many spinnerbaits with D2T and I never worry about the extra weight of the epoxy.

Here are a couple of mine in a jig.

Those look really good for your first ones. You will be soon addicted you won't ba able to stop tying. Good Luck.

There you go a couple thousand more painted ones and you will be a pro. Very nice indeed. As far as powder paint in an air brush. Yes it can be done. You will need a special air brush and a lot of powder. There is a lot of powder waste due to over spray. However you can reclaim it by spraying in a box. I find it very messy and you can't control where you want the colors. It is nothing like spraying on liquid paint.

00 mod Don't worry it will all be downhill from now. Once bitten you can't go back. You will buy more and more stuff and then you will find more colors you like and buy more. However it's a good addiction. BTW very nice looking jigs.

They are on there way and you should get them shortly.

Thanks, Big Bass Man and FuzzyGrub. John, every year I try something different and this past year was the best with these colors. I hope this color pattern holds out for next year. It seems that every year the fish want different color combinations.

x3 what everyone else mentioned above.

Brett, Thanks. The green is my favorite color of the series as well. I had that powder paint custom made. I wish I was a better phtographer. The pics don't do the green one justice.

Thanks for the compliment.

IM sent.

It is called a Weedless Brush Jig.

Hey guys I finally have some time to post the three jigs that were my go to jigs this year and won me some cash. Thanks to those who IM'd me and waited patiently for the pics. I've been very busy lately. So here they are. They are all custom powder paints I had formulated the first two in a vein color slvr/blk and blue/black and the third one which is called grn pumpkin/black sand. Also I did something different this year and tried tying with wire. So far I like it and it seems faster than tying with thread. So here are the pics you've waited for. Enjoy.

Ok guys here is the feedback on the keeper springs and screw locks. I have the following molds for the spring keeper: FBB-6-SLA, SRH-6M-SLA, SRH-6G-SLA AND WRM-6- SLA. Now these keepers come in two wire diameters .020 and .024. See picture above. The 1st spring from left to right is a Do-It mold spring. The second spring is the .020 wire diameter and the 3rd spring is the .024 wire diameter. As far as the other two springs are concerned, you can see that the .020 spring is about the same height as the Do-It spring. The .024 spring however is much taller which poses the following problem. In all of the molds that I have mentioned, the .020 and .024 spring will work in all the cavities except the 1/8 and 1/16 oz cavities. Now the .020 spring will work in the 1/8 and 1/16 oz cavities however you may have to bend the long leg a bit as it is too long and sticks out too close to the sprue hole which may give you incomplete pours. The .024 spring will not fit in the 1/8 and 1/16 oz cavities because as you can see in the picture below, it is longer than the .020 spring and it is harder to try to bend to make it fit. If you look at the picbelow, you can see what I'm trying to explain. In the 1/16 oz cavity, the .024 spring breaches the sprue hole, in the 1/8 oz cavity, the spring is very close to the sprue hole which may cause pouring problems. This happens to all of the molds I mentioned to all of the 1/16 and 1/8 oz cavities. Now as far as the quality of the springs they are excellent, they fit in the molds with no problem as far as sitting in the cavity. Also the .024 diameter wire matches within (.001) of the original, and the spring outside diameter is with-in (.002). So this spring can be used in the Do-It molds I have mentioned with the exceptions noted. Now on the other screw-lok neither of them would fit a Do-It mold, as their outside diameter far exceeds the cavity it needs to go in. See last pic. However I don't believe they are meant for that anyway. If anyone needs more info or dimensions, PM me and I will help you with what you need.

Dylan, You will get a lot of good answers here from people who have been doing this for awhile like Jig Man and the info he posted. What you will find is that everyone does things slightly different and all you need to do is gather all the info posted and find what works for you. Ask questions and someone will reply with an answer. BTW if you want to build your own fluid bed , IM me your e-mail and I will send you instructions on how to build one. A fluid bed is really easy to use and if you are only making single color jigs, you can't beat it for a even coating of powder and speed.