SWMIBASSER

How does the rod limit the action of a crankbait? There doesn't seem to be any logical reason why this would happen. To the original poster, I like the BPS crankin sticks. They're cheap and work well. Plus when you get them on sale you'll be way under your budget. Because when fishing open water there is more to fishing a crankbait than just throwing it out and reeling it in.

I wouldn't be so sure. I like a regular rod, usually much stiffer than most to fish both. (Though I rarely ever fish spinnerbaits anymore) You need a faster stiffer rod to rip free from the tips of weedbed tops. Which is most of the cranking I do up here. Even when not quite to the weedtops, in open water, a soft rod absorbs any action you try to impart in the lure. Same reasons I use a 6'6 MH rod for hard jerkbaits when everyone else uses a M rod with a slower action. Not only does it make it more tiring it also reduces the action of the lure.

No I don't break rods. I've broke one ever when I was about 13. I've had two break on me, both were not mine, and both happened while fishing. Funny thing is I bought a Falcon Lowrider about 7 years ago. It was a huge step up in quality for me back then. It's still going strong for my sister-in-law. What J/M Elites do you have? I've got the 7'6 MH 3/8-3/4 XF. I'd like to get a 7 ft M or MH. I generally like rods stiffer than what I think most do. But for this application I need a XF tip and plenty of backbone. For fishing weightless and light TX rigged worms. If their 7ft rod is the same power and action as the 7'6 rod it would be perfect. FWIW I'm really thinking about trying one of the spinning rods too. One to double as a tube and drop shot rod.

You positive you looked at the Elite J/M rods? They are lighter than the mossyback rods for sure, and not much heavier than the Carrot stix. If it weren't for that rod I would easily just buy the Loomis. I really feel you are getting more rod for the money with the J/M Elite rods. I just know that the warranty of Loomis rods is rock solid reliable.

The biggest smallies aren't being caught in Erie anymore. St Clair either.

Not cheating. I would even say that you are at a severe disadvantage on most days, when using live bait, due to the efficiency differences between live and artificial bait.

Those are the rods I want to use. I've got a BPS J/M Elite and I love the rod. I like the idea of saving the $50 on the Carrot Stix and the Kistler. I have the Loomis SHR 821 and love it, but the prices are always really high compared to similar performance from others. Even despite the $$ I can't help but be drawn to the lifetime rod investment in a Loomis. The Loomis rod I'm looking at is the Mossyback 7'1 BCR 852 or 853 Thoughts and opinions please.

How do the species specific rods compare to the regular trigger/spin jig line? Which do they compare to in weight and sensitivity? The rod I'm looking at is the BSR 852 and BSR 853 Mossyback Rods. 7-1 M or MH. Not sure which yet.

Crankbaits=BPS Crankin' stick. I don't have one myself, but everyone who does is happy with them. Regularly $80 I think, on sale now for $50. 7' MH Remember that $50 savings. This rod while probably a little stiff would double as a general top water rod IMO. St Croix Mojo. Less than $100. 7' MH. IMO a 7ft MH is the best all around B/C rod. Can do everything well. Even really light stuff with the right reel. Jerkbaits, top waters, and close quarter crankbaiting (laydown fishing with crankbaits) I'm sure there are others out there but I have a Falcon Lowrider XG. 6'6 MH. Works perfectly for this. Wouldn't trade it for anything. I've also used this rod for wacky worms, with the BPS Pro light finesse reel. Throws them great. Small Senko w/no weight on a baitcasting setup. You need a jig/worm rod, and a GOOD finesse rod. Use the spinning rod that you have for now for everything and then decide what you want to buy first. IMO a shakey head rod, and a drop shot rod are two different animals. They don't interchange. A shakey rod needs a much faster tip, and can be a little shorter than a drop shot rod. I think Loomis hit the nail on the head with their shakey head rod. I would go for the heavier of the two as it will still handle the lighter weights just fine. Rogue rods are a great value. I've been using one of those for tubes and wacky worms for awhile now. Most underrated rod built IMO. Use any savings you can on BPS crankbait rods, the Mojo at under $100 and the BPS reels when on sale, and apply it towards upgrading your jig/worm baitcasting rod and your good finesse rod.

I'm running through my head trying to think of everything needed equipment wise. weigh bags, folding table for registration, possibly another for scale, a scale, a bump board and ??? Is anything provided by national clubs when starting a division? At this point the equipment is the only concern as all the hard stuff will be ironed out by going the division route. Rules, payout, fees, insurance, etc.

Of course it is series dependant but I sure wouldn't be a heel just because I was a co-angler. I don't consider BFL boaters Pro's. Some are great, some just prefer to use their own boat regardless of skill level. I think that some of the things need to be reciprocal. I'm not netting a boaters fish if he just keeps fishing when I need the net.

I'll be honest. It's a bit of a self serving idea. To build a schedule around what I can fish. And most of all a one on one series of tournaments. I simply can not find a partner that I can trust to be there every tournament (due to schedules mostly) I've got lakes in mind, already popular tournament lakes. Where do I go from here? What equipment do I need? The nice to have and the have to haves. You need a permit from the DNR for those dates is that right? I would like to actually start a division of another series but would like some sort of direction first.

Maybe pull them apart and re-assemble. The handle needs to be really tight. I pulled my Pro Finesse apart and had the same problem. Once the handle is REALLY tight then you can let go of the drag star. There won't be any back play.

I agree on the handle. It makes a nicer looking package, and should be completely bomb proof. But I also can't help but think should you ever need to replace it, a few years down the road, you will be SOL.

I'm starting to realize more and more that you need to just USE a fishing line to see if you will like it. I've seen great reviews on line I think is JUNK, and I've seen what is generally considered JUNK do well (my brother switched to nothing but Viscous flourocarbon with no problems at all) And then there is this line. Some say junk. Others say it's great. I don't understand how their can be that much of a variance but there is.

I think it looks great. I like the dual brake setup. I wonder if it is the same as on the BPS reels? Only thing I don't like about it is the lack of a 7.1

Looks like cabelas carries it. http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/product/standard-item.jsp?_DARGS=/cabelas/en/common/catalog/item-link.jsp_A&_DAV=MainCatcat20166-cat20331&id=0071666124747a&navCount=8&podId=0071666&parentId=cat20331&masterpathid=&navAction=push&catalogCode=UK&rid=&parentType=index&indexId=cat601233&hasJS=true

Looks like a Killer reel. They dropped the screw on handle for a bolt on carbon fiber handle. A few other changes. I NEED to get one of these. http://www.pfluegerfishing.com/products/products.php?p=82

A local walmart used to sell the 600yd spools for $8. But they quit carrying it. :'( Since nobody local carries it it's necessary to order and pay shipping. 1/4lb spool=600yds. At least in this case.

I ordered a 1/4lb spool from fish307.com with great success. I only ordered that one spool as I wanted to try the company out as much as buy line. Several e-mail updates, shipped the same day I ordered (ordered early afternoon) and was received a few days later. Less than $15 including shipping for a 1/4lb spool seemed like a good deal to me. Maybe more savings could be had on shipping ordering more than one item.

I like it for the low memory, low stretch, small diameter and incredible strength to diameter ratio. Sensitive, as invisible as I need. Sinks faster than mono. Relatively speaking (compared to decent flouro) cheap. I've never used ultra soft. In fact I've only used 8lb, and just bought a 1/4lb spool of 6lb. The stuff is so strong 8lb is all I've needed on most applications I use. In fact I'm going to use their 8lb on my crankbait rods.

Another positive vote....I even downsized on RW's advice to 6lb from 8lb.

I used the 100% Flouro and had major problems with line twists and tangles when using a weightless rig. On a spinning rod. In 10lb test. Also had one backlash on a crankbait rig and it was so tangled I couldn't pick it out and gave up. Otherwise it did fine. Even still I'm switching back to Y/Z Hybrid. No hassles with it. In my experience.

If I were you I would forget the split grips, save some bucks and buy the BPS crankin' stick. Everyone who has used them give good reviews. Plus when they go on sale they are that much cheaper.

They are great reels for sure. My father has a couple. He used them for Musky fishing so they are plenty durable. They came out in the early 90's.....They were as good as it got back then. Like most old school Abu's they will last forever. Literally.