FuzzyGrub

The following are notes I took from my 1st painting. I would appreciate any adders from the pro's and welcome any clarifications needed by newbies like myself, or even non-painters. Notes from 1st Time Powder Painting I painted over 150+ jig heads over two days approximately 4 hours per day. Primarily used three colors (Green Pumpkin, Black, Brown) but also used a little White and Chartreuse on a few swim jig heads. The method used utilized a toaster oven for heating and curing. All jigs were painted to a "fishable" state. Only a handful had too much paint causing bulges, and a couple did not have complete coverage of the bait retainer. Only the critical eye of a fisherman would notice these defects. Prior to performing painting, I read many a tip from: Tackle Underground forums TJ's Tackle Supply Jann's Netcraft Lure Component Supply Pro-tec Paint Literature The following notes are to document what worked for me and what did not. Also notes provided for reminder for things to improve on for the next batch, whenever that should come. Jigs: The following jig sizes and types were painted: 1/8, 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 oz Football Jig heads. 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 oz Arky Jig heads. 1/8, 1/4, and 3/8 oz Round Finesse Jig heads. 1/4 and 3/8 oz Swim Jig heads. Apparatus used: Regular size toaster oven with removable trays. Cooling Rack (from old microwave oven rack). Curing Rack (from old microwave oven rack). Tools: Hemostats Pliers Spring-loaded clothespins for tray removal Oven thermometer to check initial temperatures Materials: Unpainted Jig Heads w/o weed guards installed Pro-tec Powder paint in 2 or 4 oz containers. General Process: Pre-heat oven to 350 degrees, checking with thermometer. Heat jig heads for 25 minutes before painting. Paint smallest size first. Remove one at a time to paint, with hemostats, close toaster oven door. Quick Dip and quick swirl in paint. Tap off extra paint, weed guard hole facing down for 1st couple taps. Rotate and tap off all extra paint. Do quickly after dip and swirl. Hang on curing rack. Cover and fluff paint between each jig painting. o Note: tapping causes paint to settle, and larger jigs need to be immersed further in paint Paint about 20 jig heads to a batch. Clean paint from hook eye with "eye buster" before putting each jig in curing rack. Remove most/all paint from hook eye. Place next batch of 20 jig heads on bottom pan. Place curing rack on top of jig heads. Cure for 20 minutes at 350 degrees. Remove curing rack and let cool. Let jig heads heat for another 5 minutes before starting painting process again. Switching Colors: Use one paint at a time. Paint all jig heads of same color before changing. Clean paint dust from hemostats and other tools on change. Clean bench area of any paint dust. Fluff new paint well, before first dip. Test fluff with "cold" jig, re-fluff. Notes: Don't focus on glossy or dull of jig heads after paint. I had some of both, and most had glossy and dull spots. Curing process made them all look great. The above might have been required more of the "torch" method. Do not double dip. You will end up with too much paint. Paint is extremely hard to remove from hook eyes after curing. Epoxy top coating or nail polish will not be necessary. Jigs will most likely be lost before the paint ever chips. FWIW: Black seemed to be the easiest color to work with. GP was probably the hardest because I started with that. Things that didn't work or didn't work well for me: Using hemostat to cover hook eye from getting paint in it. The jig heads I used would not allow easy dipping into 2 oz paint containers. Using tooth picks after initial paint coating to remove paint from hook eyes still left some paint that reflowed during curing. Homemade curing rack allowed touching of jig heads and did not maximize the number for curing. Wooden plugs in weed guard holes was too difficult to handle before dipping in paint. 1st tap and minimize amount of paint applied, minimized the number that needed a drill chaser. A few jigs ended up with too much paint and produced "bulges". Work on dip/swirl process. Purchase/Make for next batch: Two curing racks from bread pan (alum foil pan plus two threaded rods) o Should be able to increase batch size to 30, maybe more. Extra set of hemostats Empty salt shaker for two-tone paint Small Tupperware type containers Find something to fill the "dead" time while batch is curing. Extra 2 oz Paint containers.

I did get some swing imacts but didn't get a chance to use them before the end of bass fishing for me. On the list to try in the spring. I will add slider heads to the rigging options. Thx.

FWIW: Was out yesterday, with 43F water and actually caught a crayfish. He clamped right on to the jig. I put it in the cup holder for a latter picture, but it escaped. Bass are still hitting the tube, as well.

Today it was 40 degree water, and green pumpkin tubes accounted for 19 of 32 caught. All the 18"ers were included in the 19. [edit]Removed self-promotional link. Please see the FAQs regarding self-promotion[/edit] Sorry, it was just a personnel, no-advertising website. Here is just a pic with the tube still in the mouth:

While I don't think the temp swings are good for your equipment, can't say for sure it would cause any damage. My preferance is the cellar. The wintertime is when I go through reels and do cleaning and servicing. Also it is the time when going through and re-organize, inventory, etc. Too cold to do that outside.

FYI: 4.70 - Software Update is now available for these units: 1100 Series: 1157c, 1197c 700 Series: 718, 728, 778c, 788c, 788ci, 798c, 798ci Description: 10/26/2009 12:00:00 AM - v4.700 Adds support for LakeMaster chart cards. Adds new SI sonar color palettes. Adds new 2D sonar color palettes. Improved GPS performance to provide higher chart update rates. Corrected problems with depth offset algorithm. Corrected SD card reporting incorrect size. New menu item for sound control. Corrected issue of GPS output becoming disabled in certain navigation modes. Corrected problem of snapshot not functioning in POS mode. Fixed centering issue when changing chart orientation. Corrected problem of displayed track becoming offset from boat. Sonar processing improved to increase trolling motor noise rejection. Fixes various cosmetic and minor operational defects. Other units will be updated later. 900 Series in January. Register your unit and get access to an account to download from HB site. or join this forum and download: http://forums.sideimagingsoft.com/index.php?action=downloads PS: Down-Imaging coming in January. I have updated my 798ci, and hopefully be on the water with it, this coming weekend.

Hopefully, I'll get out next weekend to give them a shot, before switching over to focus on walleyes and muskies. I also got some of their swing impacts. Stinky stuff.

FWIW: I have two Guest chargers and they both have 3 - prong grounded plugs, but the chargers are fully encapsulated, ie no exposed metal. Before you try to measure any voltage off the hull, make sure you are plugged into a GFI outlet.

I have heard good things about these jig bodies, and just purchased some. I will be trying them the next time out, but wondering how many have had experience with them, especially for cold water (mid 40's).

I use it for verticle jigging, some drop-shot, shakyhead, and dock skipping, but that is all from a boat. Some people like this size for wading/casting jigs to smallies, but I prefer longer rods for that.

You might want to test your cooler to see how bad the top seal leaks. Mine, the water had to be down quite a ways to minimize the water loss from jostling around. Thought of adding a thin rubber tube around the perimeter to help seal, but haven't tried it. I was also looking for easy way to latch the top down, since most coolers just close on a tight fit, these days. I was just going to use a bilge pump on a hose to fill it, and use to exchange water. I was planning to use just an aerator to oxygenate the water. My thought was that bilge pumps do not do that too efficiently. Hope this helps and let us know how you make out.

Raise your rod tip to the 10-11 o'clock position and minimize the amount of line laying on the water.

Vanish was just what happened to whatever you tied to the end of it. I like the Pline Foroclear, too, but it is just mono with a coating.

I used bandits and LC wakebaits this year for smallies. The LC RC 1.5 worked well for me. I'd have to see what color it is, but don't think that is a major factor.

I have both of those actions and don't think you will go wrong with either. I prefer the 68MXF over the 70MF. I have had Symetre 2500 FI and FJ on them.

Wish some of that AZ weather was up here now. If I went barefoot, murphy would make sure I found that hook that fell out of the pack on the last trip.

You can buy pre-made hatches. I wanted one big enough to store the gas tank up front, which didn't provide many pre-made options. The piano hinge is on top, but there is support around the complete perimiter of the hatch. Most of the this support and deck support was done with aluminum angle pieces. No carpet in my fishing boats. Makes it too hard to clean and holds water and dampness. I used a good primer/sealer for all wood surfaces, followed by two coats of poly floor paint. The top surface received a third coat with anti-slip additive. Also, it easy to do a touch-up paint in the spring commisioning.

[edit]Removed self-promotional link. Please see the FAQs regarding self-promotion[/edit]

Be careful. It is easy to add too much weight. 5/8 ext plywood (5 ply) is fine. Especially if you are going to encapsulate in fiberglass. http://www.canadalake.org/Starcraftii.html

I like my W45. I have had it for 2 years. The foot control is stored away and only use two keyfobs. When fighting a good fish the other guy can take over boat control. Also, for walleye fishing, no one has to be up on the casting deck. For strictly bass fishing where you want precise foot control, without visual checking the direction the head is pointing, the cable steers still acell.

Please be aware that Navionics has a very strict interpretation for getting the $50 rebate on the Hotmaps 2009 chips. After a couple of emails with Navionics and providing a copy of my online receipt from Cabela's, they said it would not be honored. My receipt clearly showed the full MSRP price. The total at the bottom, including tax. The total was $20 higher than what was shown charged to my credit card. The $20 difference was because Cabela's had provided a cash coupon for $20 off any purchase of $150 or more. Navionics was told that is what it was. Their rebate does state that store coupons and rewards, etc will be excluded. I ended up canceling my order. I just want to let others know before they purchase and it is too late.

A week latter, and quantity is still there, but size is down. [edit]Removed self-promotional link. Please see the FAQs regarding self-promotion[/edit]

Day 2 and another 40 fish! [edit]Removed self-promotional link. Please see the FAQs regarding self-promotion[/edit]

We had a good start to the season: [edit]Removed self-promotional link. Please see the FAQs regarding self-promotion[/edit]