Delaware Valley Tackle

Unfortunately it's true that the Internet and forums in particular are full of hawkers often incognito. That's not the case here though. dam0007 is a good guy. Just a blue collar straight talker, not a PC bone in his body. Lol. I commented in a post earlier about the helpfulness of this forum. I hope that and the fellowship continue to flourish.

Yes. If the drag is backed all the way off it can slip instead of spinning the spool.

If you've ever used a revo, lews, PQ etc. you know what you can expect. Solid reel

This is one reason why This forum is the best!

Right. No problem. I'll respond on FB in a little.

Rod building is a rewarding craft. Do your homework and ease in to see if you like it.

I've heard of fly cast instructors using that trick. Letting the tool do the work is good advice too.

Multiple lots I ship free. Single kits postage only.

They told him he could go home for the day when his epoxy was gone.

Drag kits range $7-10 for most models.

The number of guides on a Rod should be driven by Rod length, action, guide height and size. The fewest and lightest guides that will handle the application leaves you with a crisp, responsive and sensitive Rod.

It's just like learning to throw a ball. It's all about the release point. In your example it's too late. Worst thing you can do is throw hard. If you have to do that to load the Rod it's the wrong tool for the job .

The secret formula hasn't changed. Be where the bass are and present a bait at the right depth and action. The trick is realizing habitats change which triggers changes in behavior for bait and bass. Too many fish the same holes on the same lakes for 30 yrs and expect the same results.

Reel adjustments aren't universal that's why they're adjustable. The variables in Rod , bait , conditions Etc not to mention casting style are so plentiful you really need to experiment for yourself. A particular reel could be fantastic but just not for you.

Looks Cherry. Nice find.

That's ugly but not an urgent repair. Try the search tool at tackleworks.com.

Without being dressed, any knot will be noticeable to some degree. If it's tied well I don't worry about the guides hurting it. If its actually hanging up that's another story.

I'm on board with that RW. The Core is too smooth to waste on anything other than moving baits.

Chech the pawl cap that it is snug. If so i recommend replacing the worm and pawl as a set. If the cap was left loose for a period the pawl and or worm could have been damaged.

Not at all. Im slowly replacing my moss green with hi vis. If it makes you feel better black out the lower few feet or tie on a leader but neither is mandatory visibility wise.

Drop shot is aterminsl rig with lots of variations. What exactly would you like the new Rod to do.

A full floating spool has a two piece spool shaft that disengages behind the pinion gear eliminating the friction points commonly polished in Super Tuning. The difference in practical application isn't night and day but is worth considering comparing apples to apples.

Braid on a spinning reel is all about sensitivity and line management. Test strength just is what it is.

I can't speak to that particular replacement but any spool that fits should drop right in. Id expect the dealer to know what reel the spool fits

U40 is a water based polymer that simply pits. Thin seal on the cork. Just brush on a single coat.