Delaware Valley Tackle

These boats have such a shallow draft I don't even worry about it. I would make it with a hinge so you can get it out of the way if you bush whacking.

"What I would be after would be quantifiable data, for comparative purposes. Objective data, which could possibly be correlated to subjective perceptions across a wide sampling of people. I do believe this could yield some useful results." Exactly. That's what the Common Cents System's intention is as well. Taking subjective terms like ML, M, MH, Fast, Moderate, 5wt, 1/4-3/4 oz etc and replacing them with quantifiable terms that can be measured the same as 7', 4 oz etc. I think you'll find this interesting .ghoti : http://www.common-cents.info/

Due to the differences in sensory perception among individuals, it's probably an exercise in futility to try to measure sensitivity any more than you could measure taste. What would be nice though is for rod and blank makers to embrace Dr Hannemen's "Common Cents" system which measures rod power, action, speed (frequency) with the weight of a US Penny as the unit of measure. A lot of blank makers wont even list physical weight as they don't want their offerings compared to others.

It come down to features, feel and deal. None is head and shoulders better or worse than the others.

Replacing the guide is the only repair that will be anything other than a stop gap measure. It will have to be done eventually.

St Croix has the most robust line up and I'd throw the MHX HM into the mix. MHX makes a DS822 which they call a Mag ML. Loads well with light baits but has some power in the butt.

Welcome to the forum. The rod has more to do with casting than the reel does, and as stated above 90' on a cast is plenty. Accuracy is what will put fish in the boat (or net...). A smooth stroke and a rod that loads properly will maximize casting distance when you have to (deep cranks, covering water with a spinner bait, casting to rising fish). Horsing a cast is the surest path to the backlash from hell. Sounds like you're doing fine. Study, practice and most of all enjoy.

Kudos for not only taking a kid, a little girl no less, fishing, but relishing your role as "step parent". There are no bigger shoes to fill.

This is a great list for up here. A little surprised there's not more love for the walleye on this thread though.

I'm sure you'll get brands and models all over the map, but here's the bottom line. Sensitivity of a blank is determined by the stiffness:weight ratio. number one. Then the "speed", not in action but rather recovery speed or resonance frequency. Next, the lightest possible guide train will protect as much as possible of the blank's inherent properties. You're talking about Titanium frame micros or Recoils. The grip needs to built with solid graphite arbors for the seat matched to a carbon fiber grip with a butt length that is comfortable and as close to neutral balance as you can get without adding weight. To achieve all this you're looking at a custom build on a high quality blank of which there are a few. Granted some of this may be beyond the point of diminishing returns cost wise, but addresses the original question.

I like the Rage Toad type bait alternative if you want something different from the spoon. I'd still get some spoons and use them behind a guy punching. Another alternative would a punch/heavy trig that will sink fast enough for you to fish and keep up with the front guy.

You still have some time before you really need to adjust tactics. Pay attention to what the forage is doing. In our local river, big schools of baitfish migrate upriver in fall so the jerkbait, swimbait bite is good but we still catch them on tubes as well. When the water temp falls to 40*< the hair jigs come in handy.

Brush off any debris as best as you can and put some gear oil on the worm. While cranking, put light finger pressure against the line guide carrier feeling for any rough spots, catches or hesitations. If there are any send it on in for service & repair.

Too many variables and unanswered questions to drop any significant coin. In general terms though, wood can make a fine grip. If it is finished to a high gloss it will actually be tacky when wet. Weight concerns would be minimal unless you were doing a full grip and fore which you don't usually see in wood. Wood grips are nice on a fly rod where too soft a grip can give the rod a mushy feel.

Wdy Let me know if you have any problems with it. I'll trouble shoot it for ya.

Safe? Sure. Ideal? Maybe, maybe not. If it's a very low viscosity and somewhat temperature stable it will work for bearings. Something a little heavier with corrosion resistance is better on sliding parts. Grease for gears. I opt for 80w-140 gear oil for levelwinds as a compromise between grease which will gum up and oil which will fling off.

Really, no reason not to go for broke on a freebie.

A ML will handle specks and reds, a M/F will make easier work of big bull reds if you expect to get into them. The President used to come in an XT version that was supposed to be saltwater worthy. I don't think there is an xt version of the current President. Any reel should be rinsed thoroughly with fresh water immediately after fishing in the salt. The President should be ok especially at the price you get them for.

Unless the video is of the exact same model they should be viewed as a rough guide, which is fine as long as you keep that in mind. NEVER open a reel without a schematic in front of you. The Shimano vids are ok as an interim service but by no means replace a frame off deep cleaning. Spinning reels can be tricky and vary more model to model. I'd keep DIY to cleaning and oiling visible parts. FWIW I offer members here a 10% discount which makes the cost of service <$20.

IM ratings are another case of no industry standard or definition. It really doesn't tell you much of anything about a rod's performance or quality. Modulus is often overstated by using a super high modulus in the butt and a lower one in the rest of the blank. On top of that, modulus alone does not make a rod better than another. There are mandrels, resins and processes that affect the outcome. Then, the rest of the components affect how the rod will fish. Sensitivity of a blank is a function of weight/stiffness ratio. A high modulus (up to a point) carbon fiber scrim produces more stiffness with less weight. The ideal guide train uses the smallest, lightest guides that will hold up to the application and pass the needed line and connections. There are good rods available at the $100 price point. If you use St Croix as an example, the Mojo is a decent rod and catches fish. The Avid at $200 is night and day better. The LTB Noticeably better yet though not as obvious, LTE is top of the line but subtly better than an LTB

Actually, QUALITY hard chrome ring guides are quite well regarded and popular with many rod builders. Like anything else "quality" is the key. Here are some good ones: http://www.mudhole.com/Rod-Building/minima-4 The Minima4 are double swaged. Light and durable.

It really depends on the model. Med can describe quite a range of rod powers. I prefer a Med / Mod-Fast for shallow square bills

I don't know exactly off the top of my head but a postage calculator can tell you. The expensive part is the over size surcharge (7'>). 7' of 3" PVC I wanna say weighs 5# maybe less. Vacuum pipe is lighter and plenty durable if you can find it.

Or casting live bait

Maybe a cranking rod, or if you do finesse baitcasting with light line the soft tip may be beneficial there. Welcome by the way.