Delaware Valley Tackle

All else being equal, a .4 increase in the gear ratio is not that drastic. About the same as a 6.5:1 and a 7:1. The catch is that all else isn't equal in many cases. That's why knowing IPT is important.

What manufacturers call "popping" blanks varies widely. What I classify as a popping blank has an extra fast action but with a very soft tip. These blanks make excellent top water & jerkbait rods by allowing for very subtle and controlled movements of the bait. The deeper bend of a slower action rod can sometimes pull the bait further with each twitch of the rod tip than desired. The Hot n tot description is accurate as well but not as commonly used.

All good advice. The C clips are the hardest as they need to be pushed from both sides as mentioned.

Correct

I fish paddle tails on a jig head or weighted hook which eliminates most of the spinning issues you get with an unweighted fluke fished like a jerk bait.

Never remove shims from a cast control cap. Loosening the cast control prior to replacing the side plate is standard procedure. Frequent adjustment of cent. brakes shouldn't be necessary either.

Those "Instagage" switches are clumsy to use IMO and tend to be a weak link mechanically.

It's impossible to tell without seeing it. I agree that the best route is to return it if new enough. Otherwise, send it in and I'll take care of it.

MHX blanks are high quality and competitive with much more expensive alternatives. If you're working with a builder they should be guiding you through the component choice process. I'll be happy to work with you and quote a build, just email me some specifics. I just did a build for Road Warrior on an MHX HM and he also fishes Loomis and St Croix. I'm sure he would be glad to share his thoughts on how they all compare.

I believe the Multi stop is the one with the mechanical (ratchet & dog) AR. The theory being that the little bit of back play helps keep from pulling crankbaits away from the fish. Could be, but I don't buy it personally. Actually, I think just the opposite happens and that strikes aren't felt soon enough in a lot of cases. A fish can take and spit a bait pretty quickly as you've seen if you've done any sight fishing.

x2 In fact the Gold/Black Back Rattle Trap was know as "Mr Reliable" amongst our group fishing Lake Champlain. Caught pretty much everything that swims.

A drop of super glue on the nose adds greatly to the mileage I get with these. An 1/8 or lightest head I can get away with and slow rolled across the bottom 90% of the time. These are probably one of the most versatile baits I have on at all times. You can work the same places and ways you would a jig, swim jig, spinnerbait, crank etc.

We (bass anglers) are a fickle bunch. Don't read too much into it. Experimenting is half the fun sometimes. The only way to quell your curiosity is to feed it. Grab one of the lightly used ones and see what you think. It's not going to implode or anything. If it's not to your tastes just flip it.

X2 Also a good way to break a rod if you're not careful.

Grab a junk rod with a short handle and chop it off just ahead of the reel seat or maybe first guide, mount that reel spooled with 80# braid, tie a big split ring on the end. You have a plug knocker to save snagged crankbaits. Just clip a heavy sinker or old spark plug and the retrieve line to the snagged line with a snap swivel. The weight slides down and knocks the bait loose (more often than not)

All the above comments are dead on. Quality bearings supporting the spool are obviously important, as is a good AR roller clutch bearing. Additional bearings can be prioritized: The only way to be sure where bearings are is to look at a schematic in these spots, crank shaft base Pinion gear support (frame mounted) Crank shaft support (side plate) pinion gear support (side plate, ala Daiwa & Shimano new Xwrap) level wind worm gear ends handle grips

I think they're one of the Walmart specific models from around 2002. Whatever they meant by the name at the time will remain a mystery. Experiment with different applications and see what you think. The low gear ratio and mechanical AR would lead me toward a cranking setup, but a low end reel likely won't last long with heavy use like that.

Casting? Spinning? Model numbers? Quantum does so much re-branding and special runs it's hard to tell just what you've got there without some more info.

If it were me, I'd pack the rods into a tube and put the reels in a tackle bag inside the car. If you decide to just strap them to the roof point the tips rearward and make sure the handle ends are secure.

Hard baits are a good suggestion. The trick on bottom bouncing is finding just the right weight that will drift with the current without hanging up so you really need to experiment. You're going to lose some baits no matter what. If the water's not too deep, look into a slip float rig like we use steelhead fishing.

I'm more concerned with my ability to see the line than fish not seeing it. I'd pick a high-vis.

About all you can do is press inside gently with a screw driver or something to try and activate the release. Be gentle or risk doing more damage.

I'd lean towards the MH casting set up of what you have there. That's what I call combat fishing up there. Shoulder to shoulder with some goon drifting or casting right across you. The more willing you are to hike the better off you may be. I don't mean to be negative, just describing what to expect. I like steel head fishing after the salmon guys leave.

You could make make the argument for St Croix LTE as a head to head competitor for NRX, there are probably others out there but it's beside the point. The Gloomis brand has been fostered to a point where the traffic bears the prices they charge, be it justifiable in someone else's eyes or not. None of these tackle companies have any magic that makes them undeniably head and shoulder above everyone else. Especially at the high end, you're really splitting hairs and again it comes down to personal preference. To the OP, Gloomis is a high end brand for Shimano. There is no advantage for them in undermining the brand with lower end offerings.

It takes a number of hours to do a quality build and it takes the same amount of time whether the components cost $100 or $300. I chronicled what is involved somewhat in the thread RW started about a rod I built for him. My labor is based on time, not component costs. Retailers make almost double on some rods, imagine what the manufacturers margin is. And they don't have nearly the time and attention to detail invested. The blanket statement that customs are all about cosmetics is unfair and inaccurate. That may be the case in some comparisons but not overall. Each individual needs to find their comfort zone with the quality and cost of tackle they invest in and I sincerely believe custom builds, done right, offer value.