uncustered

Cast distance is hugely important in getting any crankbaits to its deepest. I built a 6 power 7'6" last year and my Dt10's are hitting 12-13'. I'm now going to build a 7'8" 8 power for 8 and 10 xds.....

my biggest killers have been tourney days. Seems like pre- fish, and day before I've found fish and developed a pattern, then a cold front, warm front, clouds (or lack thereof) change on tourney day and I struggled to adjust. Going out tomorrow post-frontal just to work on that....

I was taught glass for trebles, graphite for single hooks. This rule does not apply for 50Lb and greater rigs......

#sponsors Regular fishing folks can't afford to break a rod every trip. But when someone else is buying.....whole 'nother story.....

I build all my own rods. The mist expensive was a limited production carbon fiber surf heaver, and I've got less then $400 in it , and all components are top shelf. One of my favorites is a 6'6" 3 power spinning rod built exclusively for skipping whacky rigs to the back of any dock. I have less the $90 in that rod and the blank comes with a lifetime warranty. There are several comments about 4 or even $500 customs. Yes, that can happen but IMHO, that's way expensive since most builders buy blanks in quantity and aren't paying retail for the blank or components. I do it so I have the rod I want, not what's available. After you've fished enough you'll see where you wished the butt was longer (or shorter), or you wished the cork was thicker (or thinner). All otc rods are overbuilt and underrated. The last thing xyz rods wants is to hear their breaking. Just as this site, the interwebs have more videos and how-to's on rod building then you have time to watch. It doesn't require Harry Potter's wand to build a rod it ain't magic. Plus, I refuse to pay someone to do what I can do for myself. As much as painting your own cranks, or skirting your own jigs, or pouring your own plastic. Catching a pig on something you built is, well, priceless.

Buggs or Smith mountain Or, that really big lake east of Buxton, NC.....

I have a tracker txw 175, it measures 17'8". I've tourney fished it for 6 years now. I concur on loss of storage on shorter boat. I tourney fish Gaston, Kerr, Chickahominy and James River. Quite frankly, it's too small. Distance between front and back fishermen too close. Gets real "beaty" in more then 2' chop, it's also very wet into and with quartering seas. It is also a beast trying to maintain a track or location on trolling motor in ANY wind. If going aluminum, IMHO get the biggest, heaviest, highest horsepower rig your pocket can cover.

MHX CB906, or CB928. Both blend, moderate action. The 906 will also put a DT10, 5-6XD into the next lake. Good gear for the $$$

My favorite (and most hated answer)... Depends. Depends on rod action. Depends on lure weight. Depends on technique (deep cranking, skipping docks, flipping, punching etc) Depends. I've had 4 rotator cuff repair on my dominant arm. Plus elbow and wrist work. (Fell on a whirley crane). IMHO, you can't have one cast. That'd be like a mechanic with one wrench. Pre-activity preparation solves most activity related pain. Footballers don't just walk on the field. They lift, run and stretch before every game. Why would fishing be different? Despite all the "body work", I fish tourneys and my arms never hurt because I target my exercise specifically to fish. Good luck and Catchemall!!!

X100 Fuji alconite.....

The moderate rod flexes "easier" when loaded. That and mono filament line allow bass to suck the bait in. Also, during the fight, the rod absorbs surges taking pressure off the hook. It also absorbs the weight of the lure during head shake. I use 4 different rods, they are broken down by lure weight. A 3 power up to a 7 power for big cranks and shads....

Skipping is MUCH easier to learn on spinning gear. Best lure to start with is a whacky worm (More surface area with worm sideways, and no weight) start by sweeping rod low ALONG water, then release... Practice makes perfect. I use a Medium 6'6" rod for skipping, the shorter, stiffer rod loads easier and the shorter length makes for better control.

I use fireline crystal for whacky and line watching (I am color blind and the green/brown lines blend with the water and I can't see them) as for the natural colors I've used both fireline and 632. I also know my knots and have never had a problem with my leaders. I use the uni-uni for like diameters and the improved albright for disparate diameters..... I do this for all (saltwater seamonster fishing too...) my braid applications. Catchemall!!!!

DVT nailed it. IMHO, the answer is "depends".... Strictly speaking bass fishing if you are a fan of micro guides (of which I absolutely am not), then your knot better stay out of the guides. period. If your using 65Lb braid, 25+Lb flouro then you don't want to wind that knot on a low-profile bait caster... Depends.... I usually use 18-24" leader for bass applications. Since I build my rods I control guide sizing and that's why I never use smaller then size 7 ring. It goes back to the answer of "depends". I know this doesn't apply, but for surf fishing I've used 30' for shock leaders. Uni-uni is hard to beat to have a small strong knot. I've never had one fail due to casting. Catchemall!!!!

I use the gamakatsu weedless finesse wide gap. If I'm trying to fish the whole piling (top to bottom) I add a tungsten bead with a bobber stop above the hook.