Delaware Valley Tackle

Yes, line weight ratings are meaningless on a fresh water rod. If they have any use at all it might be to suggest techniques/applications but even that's a stretch.

Yes, with a $200> budget you really can't go wrong with any of the big brands. When you start getting into the "High end" reels the Core is the best bang for the buck imo.

Yes, everything from 54-57c. 54 is a rubber ring that goes around the threads on the side plate to keep the cap from loosening. The bearing goes in and is held in place by the wire clip. The rest stack inside the cap with a light oil film between.

The dead-lift capacity of a Hvy bass rod is surprisingly high IF you use it correctly, as in keep the rod tip from bending beyond 90* to the butt. You can lift without raising the tip straight up.

I'm not trying to sell Super Tuning to a beginner baitcaster, but in reality the user of a Tuned reel actually often ends up using less breaking due to the decreased effort it takes to get the spool turning.

A reel is only as fast as you let it be. Up the braking and spool tension a hair from what you'd fish and discourage bombing distance casts (a tough sell with any kid especially a 12 yo boy). A Citica, Revo S or PQ is about as user friendly as you can get and yet he won't "out grow" them as his skill develops. Pull off 50-75 feet of line and put a wrap of electrical tape around the spool. This will keep the inevitable backlash from going very deep.

Either will cast nicely with that guide train, and when it comes to finesse fishing there's no such thing as too light. A 1000 on a 4 oz + rod fits the bill.

The 50E is about as good as you'll find for finesse baitcasting without really opening your wallet. That said, what you're throwing is on the lighter end but shouldn't require a true "finesse" reel. Any good casting reel matched with the right rod should serve your purpose.

Drifting a tube in current in the Upper Delaware, the line moves, I set the hook and have a battle with what feels like a much larger that usual smallmouth. When I finnally get it close enough I lip it and see that is maybe 2# When I lift it up out of the water taking tension off the line the tube falls to the ground. The line had wrapped around his pectoral fin. He was never hooked at all.

Actually, out on the tip is where the lightest guides have the most benefit, but the idea that you can mix and match is exactly right. We do this for both budget and effect at times.

The single biggest problem here is that the rod is heavy for the baits you're casting if distance is the main concern. The guys at Hawgtech are great guys and their bearings are good quality as far as I can tell, but the internet is loaded with these "free Spool" videos and they are a little deceiving although not intentionally in most cases. Free spool contributes to casting distance UP TO A POINT and that's it. An object of a given weight, mass and profile will only fly just so far no matter what you launch it with or how much/little drag is put on it. A spool that spins 90 seconds doesn't translate to a lure that will fly 90 seconds or anything close. The most effective ways to improve free spool listed by value: 1. Deep cleaning w/flush and proper oiling of stock bearings 2. Super Tuning (solid spool shaft reels only) 3. ABEC 5 ceramic hybrid bearings run dry. Reel spools are not fast enough, for long enough to benefit practically from higher rated bearings. ABEC5 are better than most stockers and the ceramic balls are lighter, rounder and harder. The trade off is they are a little louder which puts some people off. Adding oil to ceramic bearings counteracts some of the benefit. Timing the free spool and comparing between steps 2 & 3 will show much less improvement than over box stock. The real keys to casting distance lie in the rod, line and bait.

Shipping for a single reel from VT to NY is probably $6 and the price of service for members here is $19.80 ($22-10%). That's close on a Trion but only 1/2 of a new President. If you DIY I'll be happy to help if you get stuck and don't even think of opening any reel without a schematic. Keep in mind they are mostly a parts list and don't necessarily show part orientation and disassembly/reassembly order.

That Dartanium material works well enough but I've seen it deteriorate and/or harden and stick. The Carbontex drags are the real deal.

Actually, for fish catching performance with jigs/plastics buy the best rod you can afford and pair it with a decent (as in not a throw away) reel. Plan on $50> for spinning and $100> casting except for a PQ etc on sale.

If you feel like you're underpowered for the fish and cover with the Med step up to a Medium Heavy / Fast, and spool it with 20# braid

Almost every time a customer sees what is truly involved in a full tear down service they comment that I don't charge enough. In a world where many expect something for nothing that speaks volumes.

Building on the spine of a blank is 1980's technique. There has never ben anything but anecdotal evidence and opinion to substantiate any advantage or disadvantage. A rod is not fished strictly on one plane, it gets bent in all directions at some point. Using the straightest axis keeps the guides in alignment and is more pleasing aesthetically. Rod building is a rewarding craft, but not something to get into just to save a few bucks on a rod. It won't likely happen, and there is a learning curve. I've seen some 1st attempts that were very impressive, but usually as your skill level rises you're first try pales in comparison. Guide placement charts are ok for a practice rod to wet your feet on, but performance wise, guide placement is one of the biggest advantages to going custom. Research "Static Testing guide placement", "27x guide placement" and "Fuji KR Concept". You need a rod dryer right away. Turning a rod by hand is tedious but it's good experience is learning how epoxy behaves as it cures. Most manufacture's spinning blanks are little less powerful and faster than similarly labeled casting blanks, however the blank doesn't know the difference so they can be built any way you want. I'm in the process of building a casting rod for steelhead on a 4pc fly blank. Reel seat placement is driven by a combination of factors and considerations including blank length, angler stature and desired balance. If you decide to give it a whirl and get stuck on anything feel free to contact me directly.

The cost of reel service is $19.20 ($22-10%). If you're inclined to DIY I'll help you out if I can.

Successful as in ability to consistently catch fish, or successful as in sustaining a career and making some money? On the fishing side I'd say the ability to find fish and adapt to changing conditions, not only during the course of a day on the water, but over the years. You need an open mind and be analytical almost to obsession. On the money side, not only do they need consistent results, they need to be outstanding salesmen, businessmen and spokesmen. There's a laundry list of personal traits that plays into those.

There's always tape too.

Not necessarily, but the more you use it as-is the harder it will be to salvage. Any chance it actually is contaminated? Doesn't have to be sand per say, dunked in dirty water, a ride down the road strapped to the boat deck, etc

There's a substantial difference between what you can get in a $100 rod vs. $200 Just be sure to compare apples to apples.

A custom build doesn't have to break the bank. Email me what you're looking for and a budget range and I'll get back to you with what can be done.

The disappointing results are due to the poor application of the guides, not the guides themselves. A spinning rod of appropriate power with a quality reduction guide train and micro runners spooled with braid or light, supple mono is the way to go for raw casting distance. A "weightless" worm, if salted like a senko/Dinger etc is actually fairly heavy so a M/F rod should work fine. 12# is too heavy on a spinning setup imo. 10#max and 8#< is ideal. I run 15-20# braid on most bass spinning rods. Also be sure the spool is filled to the correct level, just below the beveled lip on the spool. A 2500 size reel is perfect for all around bass fishing.

That's what I figured, a sleeve of some sort. The lighter balls in ceramics is one of their main benefits so I can see how these would work better than stockers. The hardness and roundness of ceramic still probably makes them "better" but the micros look like a good option for a finesse reel when the owner is fussy about noise.