Delaware Valley Tackle

Revos typically have pretty high max drag, but yes that is very possible especially with braid.

The purpose of braid for bass fishing is the sensitivity you get from the lack of stretch and line management from the suppleness. The heavy #test is for line diameter to prevent digging in etc.

There's really no way to tell without seeing it. The gears do not disengage from one another so they can't slip per say. Something else is wrong. Rule #1 of reel service: have a schematic in hand before opening any reel

I know what you're describing, and all I can suggest is to be aware the line and slack and move the rod as necessary to minimize slack when you reel in line. I kind of move the rod forward as I reel in slack at the same time as opposed to letting a lot of slack line dangle. It's a lot harder to write than to do.

Lube won't cure binding, something's out of place or worn/broken but it's hard to say without seeing it. If you didn't, be sure to have a schematic handy before opening any reel. If you decide to send it in for repair, note your screen name to get the 10% off labor members discount .

Which Chronarch, 200E or 150 Ci4? The 200E and STX are comparable with the STX having dual braking if that's of any interest to you. The Ci4 is a step above either. Neither is head and shoulders over the other. Comes down to personal preference and the deal.

The catch may be in the level wind, AR clutch or gears. It's impossible to say without seeing it. If you'd like to send it in, include your screen name and I'll apply a 10% discount on labor. Service is $22 (less 10%) plus shipping and parts if needed. PM, Email or call with ant questions. Mike

The Pflueger President is a great bang for the buck spinning reel. If that's still too much, the Trion is not bad either. Fenwick and St Croix are two worth looking at for an over the counter rod.

For fast current my favorite rig is a slip float with a light jig head. Adjust the float until the bait just ticks the bottom. Until you get to know the river well enough this may take a few passes through a drift but once you get it right, you get bit and spend lots less time tying knots. Not that you never hang up, but... You can try slinkies and Lindy No-Snag weights as well

This has a kind of dragon fly profile, I can see a bass being attracted to that aspect. A simple stick worm sinking it the right spot will get bit plenty though.

If you can see the fish, they can see you. Try backing off and making longer casts. Sight fishing in shallow water, don't cast right on top of fish you see, especially in shallow water. Cast off to one side or the other and lots of times they'll be attracted to splash instead of spooked.

If a rod tip is bent beyond 90* to the butt, the user is at fault regardless of the age. A defect or shipping damage will be evident the first time the rod is loaded. Some of the reasons this seems so common include years of Ugly Stick's indestructible claims/commercials and televised tournaments showing pros abusing their equipment and imo, sometimes the fish as well.

The best, most permanent fix would be a thin brass spacer or washer. Most reels come with one in there for just this situation. The cap is vented and I can see the paper spacer deteriorating over time. For a quick fix though, it'll work. Keep an eye on the levelwind. To check it, apply slight pressure against it with a finger while cranking. It. Feel for any hesitation, hang ups, bumps etc especially at each end where it changes direction. Keep it clean and clear of debris and oil it lightly.

Skew the budget toward the rod for jigs, plastics etc. and toward the reel for moving baits like cranks, spinners and swimbaits. As for frogs you don't need the most sensitive rod but it still needs to cast well and have an action that lets you work the bait and still have the power to get the fish out once you connect. I wouldn't cheap out too much on a frog rod.

Drag ratings are often overstated and maybe inconsistent reel to reel. Your measurement method is right, and 5# is plenty for a bass reel. I can probably squeeze a little more out of it by making sure the spring washers are good and oriented correctly, cleaning the drag etc. A Carbontex drag kit is a good upgrade and fairly inexpensive at $8-$12 for most models.

Great reminder, thanks for posting!

Marine grease is a good choice and available anywhere including Wally world. The parts store may have Super Lube which is a synthetic, also a good choice.

This is the most concise explanation I've seen in writing: http://www.bassresource.com/fishing/rod-actions-power.html The only thing I don't like about it is Eddie beat me to the punch. lol

I think Tournament Edition is a version of the Extreme and may be outdated. They are BPS Brand models so they don't have them no one will.

Rem Oil works well so I wouldn't be surprised is other gun oils worked well. The main thing is that they are thin and viscosity stable temp wise. Reels are not a high speed, temp or pressure application. I can tell this though; as a former oil distributor, there is no magic to any of this and many of these "molecular bonding" claims are pure marketing.

Chain Lube is an oil with a "tackifier" additive to prevent flinging off. This is no good on reel gears because it will gum up and collect abrasive dirt etc, A simple marine or drag grease or synthetic like Super Lube is all you need and readily available. Spool bearings can be maintained with anything from sewing machine oil to 3in1 to actual reel oil like Oust. The Bantam oil that come with Shimanos is pretty good. You just want something light and stable temp wise.

For jigs, plastics etc. invest in the highest quality rod you can afford. For moving baits like swimbaits, cranks, spinners... a nice smooth reel makes fishing them more enjoyable and a better built reel will last longer against all the chuck & winding.

For the most part BPS reels are on the same platform as Pflueger/Revo/Lews etc. My suggestion would be to grab a PQ on sale if you need a budget baitcaster.

The PQ and maybe the Gander Mtn branded Daiwa's are about the only re-branded/private label reels I'd bother with. The PQ is just too good of a deal on sale to gamble on anything else. I have an older Extreme that serve well as a back up, but I have the luxury of doing repairs and upgrades at myself on a whim.

They may or may not warranty it depending on how much you took apart. If you decide to send it in to me include your screen name and I'll apply a 10% member's discount off the labor. Mike