Delaware Valley Tackle

I usually C-rig with 3/4-1 oz and a prefer a H/Mod F. MH will work fine for what you're doing. The fluoro's a good idea for abrasion resistance.

Amen. If a rod doesn't break the first few times you load it, the manufacturing is fine. After that any breakage is related to use and handling.

The original theory behind a split grip was consistent placement of the rear hand for two handed casting. On production rods nowadays it's all about style and materials. 6" of quality cork can easily run up the cost of a rod by $20+

Don't feel bad for getting something back from the HOA. They rob you all everyday. A google search might turn up a schematic. I'd lay my hands on one before anything else. First thing I'd check is the handle/switch. Hopefully you'll get lucky and won't have to dig any deeper.

Funny, I'm seeing the same thing. Tons of cookie cutter 1.5 lbers in the milfoil and a occasional 3+ in the pads. I know there are good numbers of better fish there because I caught them shallow right before the spawn.

I definitely see the logic in the argument for fluoro in slack line presentations but it just hasn't been my experience. Seeing how fast a fish can take and spit a bait off a bed without being felt was eye opening. I'm a better line watcher and that's paying off.

That's the way to fish them, more like a jig in that they are consumable as opposed to an expensive crankbait you want to retrieve if at all possible.

From an ease of maintenance standpoint I'm not sure Diawa is the way to go.

Great idea. Thanks Roger

I've been fishing a small shallow lake with huge milfoil flats and a rim of lily pads around the bank. The outside weedline is not very defined and I haven't found any steep drops. I'm thinking I gotta just pick away but of course would like to narrow it down if possible.lol

Lews doesn't post their schematics but it should have come with one. You can look at a revo one and get real close. NEVER open a reel without a schematic handy and ALWAYS take free online videos with a grain of salt. Even if it's a good one, each model has a "gotcha" somewhere in there. If you want to contact me offline I'll try to help you figure it out.

Although they have their faults you gotta throw Quantum in there too. They sell a lot of reels. Pinnacle has really stepped it up, but like you said it's an uphill battle for anyone new. There's so much good stuff out there.

Very few rod power & action combinations are so specific as to make them ineffective in other applications. In fact, I can't think of one off the top of my head. An extra fast light finesse rod has it's limitations as far as bass fishing goes. That's as close as I can come to a one trick pony rod

Annual is a good starting point for a deep cleaning schedule. More or less often as use, conditions and symptoms dictate.

In lakes with good amounts of both types of weeds, do you find bass preferring one over the other? I know this will vary lake to lake but do you see any pattern. Milfoil grows deeper but the pads provide good shade and room to move around underneath.

The frames are the same size so unless you need the extra line capacity the 2500 works fine.

Plus there is no industry standard of what exactly IM"x" is.

Always the first place to look. I'd run that drag system dry. If grease is used make sure it is a drag specific grease (Cal's, Shimano)

The MHX Popping blanks are fast but with a soft tip. I like them a lot for top water and jerk baits. IMO the fast action lets you make a more controlled presentation moving the bait just how much you move the tip.

Rod holders might take a toll on split grips and some cork grips. Too fast of an action might break if you get hung and don't catch it right away. You can catch fish with whatever you have though.

I'll go along with the two way as long as it's not one of the "insta-gage" style. Awkward to use and a weak point mechanically.

Please indulge me and refrain from referring to any over the counter rod as "Custom".

No need for a leader here. 50# braid for flipping and maybe 65# for punching mats. or mixed wood cover.

Unfortunately, there are no standards as to what constitutes the modulus ratings blank manufacturers tout. There is a lot more than modulus that makes a good blank. With that said, in the St Croix line, the jump from SCII (Mojo) to SCIII (Avid, Rage) is a definite noticeable one imo. If you must put a modulus number to them I think 30 million to 40 million is somewhere in the neighborhood. The jump from SCIII to SCIV is probably closer to the IM7 IM8 comparison in a lot of cases but keep in mind what I started with. This jump is noticeable but not to the same extent. The Elite and Extreme are really nice blanks but not appreciated by everyone over an LTB or even an Avid. Does this help clarify or just muddy the water more?

I've given some thought to what the ultimate hybrid reel would be. Ease of maintenance would have to be E series Shimano Citica/Curado. The full floating spool of Daiwa/Revo, dual bearing supported pinion (ala Daiwa as they've been doing it for a while, clutch system and frame mounted yoke posts from Quantum, either Daiwa magforce Z braking or old style shimano standard cent. brakes. The Shimano level wind is durable and simple. I don't see a huge advantage to bearings in a level wind that disengages.