Delaware Valley Tackle

You definitely want to use the heavier rod to throw A-rigs like you describe and need to re-spool with heavier line. I'd go 65# on the braid. If the lighter braid digs in or gets backlashed you may kiss your rig goodbye. Ideally a swimbait rod is the way to go if you ever buy a dedicated setup. The A-rig is a specific tool for specific conditions, bass chasing schools of bait. You get this all summer in some places like Wallenpaupack in PA, but for the most part it's a seasonal pattern.

Fish with the current for a natural presentation.

Great deal and more than suitable

There's not a world of difference between the two, or a 6.x:1. It's all personal preference.

Jerkbaits, top water, shallow-med cranks, rattle traps

Best luck lately has been with river smallmouth on senkos and squarebills.

Two totally different types of lakes. Oneida is big and has some depth. Black is shallow and super weedy for the most part. For me, Black is easier to figure out and get on some fish fairly easily. Both are capable of putting up a memorable trip if you hit it right.

Nice. I've got my wife trained so that when we go she says she'll grab what we need and meet me at the clearance bin. lol Our store just cleared all the Zoom stuff. I walked out with 20+ bags of Dingers.

7' is a tipping point and weight is a factor too. I just shipped a Rod that weighs 4oz. In a 7'2" 3" pvc tube, the package weighed 9# even. I can get away with 2" on a casting rod most times which saves some. When I can get it, I use Central Vacuum pipe. It's sturdy but way lighter than sched.40

The PQ goes on sale regularly, don't pay msrp. On sale, the value is really hard to beat. For bottom contact "feel" techniques, invest the bulk of your budget into the rod.

From what you describe it sounds like you are seeing the bass take the spinner and setting based on that rather than feel, almost like the mistake we often make with a top water. Some adjustment needs to be made bit I don't think the action of the rod is at the root here. I'd make sure the hooks are sharp, add a soft trailer, and try not to be too reactive to visual strikes.

Ya that spring is not seated correctly. A relatively easy fix but you shouldn't have to mess with it. I'll be surprised if they don't just swap out the reel(s). While irritating, it's a minor glitch. I wouldn't let it sour you on the PQ as a whole. Especially as sale prices.

Depending on weight and distance, cost is usually between $20-$30. I usually use UPS for rods. Each company has an inline price tool so it should be fairly easy to compare if you have all the details.

Tranny fluid is lighter than motor oil but still way too heavy for spool bearings. Spool control is seldom a problem with non-disengaging level wind reels. In fact, it's common practice to see the two centrifugal brake shoes discarded. The level wind bearing upgrade is a good idea if you want better free-spool.

I can, and do service BPS reels. If new enough I would return them as suggested though. Are you sure you're operating the brakes correctly? It seems like quite a coincidence that two reels have the exact same symptom.

You don't need anything too specific for a flipping or pitching. A good quality reel with a metal frame and good drag (as in adjustable and smooth with decent power). Locked down drags are unnecessary and needlessly hard on equipment. If you'll be doing some pitching good free-spool is helpful. A 50 size reel is plenty capable. I prefer a fast reel for tackling up slack or reeling down quickly. The right rod will move the fish up and out so there is no need to winch them.

Actually, for the shallow type cranking you're doing a standard 6.x:1 will work just fine. DD22's etc are where a low ratio/IPT reel is a real benefit.

The Conquest is a sweet reel and E series is tried and true. The Revo Winch and Zillion Crazy Cranker both have followings as well for good reason. While not THE best, the PQ is worth considering just because of the value and multiple configurations it comes in. For my personal use, I just grabbed a Gen2 L-Winch out of the Flea Market that will be Super Tuned and mounted on a custom Lamiglas SR765.

That's a good explanation. Differences in how systems work aren't always readily visible to the naked eye.

A GOOD glass rod is not the mushy and over weight sticks they are often portrayed as.

The correct way to fix your problem is to replace both the worm gear and pawl. If one that worn out, the other is most likely damaged as well. I couldn't make out the reel model, but if you decide to send it in for repair, include your screen name for a 10% discount on labor. Full cost is $22 plus parts and shipping.

A shakey head or maybe a small football head

Front drags are a hands down winner when it come to ease of maintenance, in use you won't likely see much if any, difference. The "Quick Fire" trigger is a weak link over time and just added parts imo.

The Alberto is a strong, slim knot. The answer lies in the exact size of the guides and diameters of the lines being joined. For the most part, the answer is yes.

You've got the major bases covered. What kind of round reel? I don't like slow action rods for top water. A "Popping" rod or something else with a fast, yet soft tip lets me impart the action I want. There's a little trade off when it comes to keeping them buttoned up though. I over come that somewhat with a 10# mono line and keeping the tip down to discourage jumping. You might want to consider adding a ML/XF finesse spinning rod.