Delaware Valley Tackle

A spin test should tell you right away if they are that much better than the stock one. As for the noise, centrifugal brake noise is often mistaken for bearing noise. Check the pins that the brake blocks ride on to be sure one has not come loose and rubbing on the drum. If the blocks are good and the drum is clean and smooth oiling is optional.

A brief occasional dunk in clear water isn't usually critical, but since there are symptoms I recommend a deep cleaning. If you you'd like to send it in the cost is <$20 after the BassResource.com members discount. For future reference, contact with salt or dirty water, laying on the bottom or dropped in the sand require more immediate attention. Dunking to quiet a noisy reel is only temporarily masking the problem and likely making it worse.

There's no mechanical reason for closing the bail by hand, that's a line management technique (a good one to follow). Make sure you have a schematic and pay real close attention if you disassemble the bail. Look for a broken spring or anything obvious.

Do your tungsten weights have inserts? If not they may have burrs fraying the line.

No, casting a "flipping stick" is fine. Unless it was a "high Stick" hook-set, sounds like a manufacturing/shipping defect or damage.

It's impossible to say without seeing it. Bails can be tricky I wouldn't open it up unless your confidence is high. If it's not too old return / exchange it. If you'd like to send it in, include your screen name to get a members discount.

I believe the handle and spool are different and some clicking adjustments maybe. The dual braking is the big one. I like cent. brakes personally, so for me it would be the TS. These are kinda like comparing the E series Citica & Curado. Very similar base performance with one being just a little more refined.

I'll use a Duo Lock snap or Norman Speed Clip on crank baits and a barrel swivel on certain rigs that tend to produce line twist. Flukes and spoon have been mentioned, I'd add C-rigs and inline spinners.

If you'd like to send the reel in for repair/maintenance I'll be happy to take care of it for you. Reference your BassResource.com screen name to receive a discount of 10% off labor.

Make sure the bail is positioned with roller facing up to be sure the trip is blocking it from opening. The bail mechanism doesn't come in contact with the friction ring. All that does is keep the crank handle from "walking" on it's own.

That's interesting. There is a bait company that sell hybrid soft plastic/rabbit hair baits. The plastic-hair jig action looks like it might actually work.

Cool, I'd just hate to see you get in over your head and ruin something with sentimental value. Order matching thread (size A) and two part rod finish epoxy at the same time.

Centrifugal brakes use friction brake shoes, they're not magnets. You can turn them all off if you have the ability to thumb the spool effectively. I usually end up using 1-3 on. Everyone's mileage will vary, but if you post the model of reel you'll get what's working for others.

Mud Hole Tackle is a top rod building supplier and a FL based company. FWIW, changing guides is more involved than just gluing on a new tip top. You'll be better off looking for a rod builder to refurbish it if that's what you want.

There's nothing inherently wrong with the Patriarch. St Croix rods do fish on the heavy side though. You may want to consider a MH if not a med. Check lure weight ratings and think about the type of cover you fish to decide.

A deep cleaning and proper lubrication is the single best thing to maximize a reel's potential. The rod, line and bait combined have a greater effect on casting than the reel though.

You may have to mount the reel to a rod in order to get enough grip on the side plate to twist it.

I've used the alumaweld on leaky rivets in an old tin boat and it held up well. IF I were to try it on a crack like you describe I'd clamp a piece of scrap over both sides and bond between and over with the cold weld.

If they are planted grass carp they are likely sterile and help keep small ponds from getting choked. You may want to just let them be.

I use a barrel shaped weight. Kinda like a football, only rotated 90*.

The drag should be set at 2/3 of the pound test of the line (or mono equiv if using braid). Some "spinner bait" rods use a slower action to supposedly keep you from pulling the bait away. I prefer a fast action similar to a jig rod. If I get short strikes I'll change blades or add a trailer hook.

Rarely will I pay more than 65% of list price for anything second hand. If you go that route and want it checked out feel free to have the seller ship here and I'll forward.

The materials for a carbon fiber grip are cheap but they are labor intensive.

I use lots of tackle of different styles. Personally, I use spinning tackle for lighter lines (<10#) and baits (<1/2). As you can see from the other posts though there is no hard ad fast rule.

Changing the handle length one way or the other won't hurt anything or change any specs. It's a matter of preference. A longer handle may be an advantage on a winch type salt water reel leverage wise but on a bass reel, not really.