Delaware Valley Tackle

Just move the bait with your rod and take up slack as needed. You can fish as slow as you want.

You can get a Big Foot trolling motor switch which gives you better control over your speed, you still need to steer manually. Motor in front and rudder in back is the best setup IMO. Check the Pelican Boat owners thread for more ideas.

Reel Magic, WD-40 etc. work by slightly degrading the line while making it softer and more manageable. KVD L&L works differently from what I understand by coating and bonding with the line. I use L&L on the rare occasions I'm not spooled with braid (sometimes even then)

Magnesium lighter and has a greater resistance to general corrosion than aluminum but susceptible to galvanic corrosion if combined with dissimilar metals and exposed to an electrolyte (saltwater) http://www.meridian-mag.com/magnesium-die-casting/magnesium-faq/#q04

Blue/grey/green are the heavier ones. The standard (lighter) may be red/blue/clear

If you're going with a Shimano look at the Saros & Stradic to get the worm gear oscillation. The Shimano AR assembly is probably the most sturdy and easy to maintain. The Daiwa Air Bail feature is nice. On a bang-for-the-buck basis, Pflueger spinners are hard to beat.

I've read that article and it makes sense. I take Tackle Tour's stuff with a grain of salt, but they did a fluoro shoot out that supports a lot of what this article claims. The Bass Pro XPS actually scored pretty well.

If it's under warranty, return it as suggested. If not, let me know the model and I'll let you know if it's worth sending in for repair.

The density of EVA varies slightly between suppliers. The harder stuff will wear better but I'm not aware of any slipperiness. There is no sealer I'm aware of like the U40 we put on cork. You can try roughing it up with some 150 sand paper to seeif you likje the feel any better.

I'm having trouble visualizing your issue. Any chance the reel got stepped on or otherwise damaged?

If you're vertically fishing finesse baits with electronics, a 6'8" ML/XF rod with a 2500 spinning reel works great. Opening the bail and letting it fall is easier than thumbing the spool all the way down. Technique labels are suggestions, take it or leave it just the suggestions you'll get here.

Casting distance is not nearly as important as accuracy when it come to putting fish in the boat. About the only applications I'm concerned with distance is deep cranking so the bait can reach and stay in the strike zone longer and maybe casting to bass busting schools of bait on the surface. You don't have time to reposition every time this happens.

Don't worry about over greasing the drag from the standpoint of the drag not working correctly. Ant extra will squeeze out when you tighten it down. Just make sure you did't put the wrong thing on it.

What kind of grease did you put on the drag? Drags require a special drag grease (Shiamano, Cal's etc.) If you used regular gear grease the drag will have to come a part , be degreased and then properly lubed. If you over oiled something else, that may have migrated on the drag as well. Be sure the pressure washers are installed opposite one another () not ((

I like a short "Shooter" rod for close accurate casting and have built a number of short "Skipping" rods for folks but I recommend a 6-6 or 7' rod and a sidearm cast to generate more lure speed. You can skip a fluke or Ika 20'+ this way

Yes. I was a little surprised when I first saw that. Just be clear, I'm not saying to rule out cast aluminum completely, just realize that an aluminum frame like that is not the same as as a machined frame. The process is important to. Good casting is good, bad (porous with lots of air pockets) is terrible.

Graphite isn't the dirty word it's sometimes made out to be. Sure, there are better materials and you get what you pay for up to a point. Just keep that in mind as you shop. For casual use a decent quality graphite framed reel will get you by if you treat it right. Also, some aluminum frame reels are cast aluminum which isn't that much if any better than a good graphite.

Browning is an extension of the BPS brand, same as Johnny Morris. They are decent reels in the PQ/Revo/Lews/Pflueger vein. The PQ comes in every conceivable configuration and is a good value especially on sale.

Ideally, you'd use the lightest tip top you can but one size up on the ring isn't a killer. You'll be fine.

Braided lines and guide materials have come a long way. Pretty much any them are compatible. If there's any problem down the road they're easy enough to upgrade but I'd be surprised.

If there is thread and finish on the tip top heat it gently and scrape it away with a razor blade being careful not to cut the blank. Beyond that apply heat to the tip top while applying pressure straight off the end. Do not twist. If the top is epoxied as opposed to hot glued it will still come off but may require a little more heat.

With the $70 it's probably worth a try. At full retail I like the Shimano Saros and up due to the worm gear oscillation. Their AR system is much better than the average spinning reel as well.

The change in pressure is what messes with the bass post front. The LMB will get tight to cover and be in a negative mood. If there are SMB in the same water they seem to be a little less sensitive to the frontal conditions. You might try targeting them if that's an option.

I have a Ci4 Stradic and like it a lot. Due to the low weight it has a different feel that some don't care. I've got one mounted on a 6'8" ML/XF finesse/drop shot rod and the whole setup feels weightless.

Super caster is just a name. These aren't very refined reels from what I've seen. For sheer casting distance, a large arbor spinning reel with braid can't be beat.