Delaware Valley Tackle

Almost every blank has a slight bend in it somewhere. Rods can take a set if stored with a bend and exposed to heat but I think it's more common in older or glass rods. Leaning in a corner is not ideal, a rod rack or wall hooks that support the rod by it's butt and midsection are best.

At first clance it does sound counter-intuitive but lightly lubing the brake drum keeps the parts in good working condition and extends their life. The braking effect is much more subtle than say in a car where there is much more force applied. Oil on those would be another story.

The difference in casting is most likely due to the blanks rather than the micro guides. Using the smallest lightest guide that will do the job allows the blank to retain as much of it's original design properties as possible. They are not a gimmick but not the cure all that some claim. "Micro" also covers a range of sizes so one micro guide might be better in a certain application than another. Comparing two different rods only means one performs differently than the other, the reasons why are probably several. Line contact on the cast of a baitcaster is almost a non-issue regardless of guide size. Increased casting distance is the least of the advantages of smaller guides.

The other reels you're comparing to may not have as good a free spool. You're not getting max casting if you don't need any thumb at all to control things.

rough on our toys are we?

Over lubing from factories is common, but the bigger issue in this example is 3 yrs of heavy use with no attention. A half or whole season a quality new reel is no problem and gives the chance for any warranty issues to come to light. Flushing the bearings is big performance enhancer.

You're welcome, any time. Good luck and be safe if you venture out. The banks are slippery and the water is COOOOld.

Design and production of a custom rod is a process that best includes personal contact between the builder and client at multiple points throughout the process. I order most components on an as needed basis to keep options open and not tie up lots of money in inventory. There's just too much out there. As a basic starting point: What species will you target and with what technique? Length & style (casting/spinning/fly) Line used (braid, fluoro, leaders...) Grip material (cork/EVA) Design (Full/Split) What reel will be mounted" Grip length If known Reel seat preference (split/window/standard) Color preferences / theme if any (may match a boat, sport team, school...)

Tapping the nose of the reel on the bench sometimes moves them enough to get a grip on it. You can also try grabbing it with some sticky tape (duct etc). If I keep giving up the tricks of the trade we'll all be retired. lol

Parts and labor add up to a good start toward an inexpensive extra reel

A long limber rod helps protect the light line and makes casting the long leader easier. I use the same 13' ML I use to float fish for steelhead.

You can fashion a bearing puller from a bobby pin by breaking it off at the bend leaving a little hook to use to lift the bearing out.

Flipping switches are one the 'gottchas' that exist in reels. All of the flipping switches I've seen are one of two types: 1- A spring from the button to the clutch bar will allow the clutch to lock open when it is in one position. I the other position, it prevents the clutch from staying in the open position. Thus, when you release the thumb bar, the clutch automatically closes. 2- The clutch locks open, but pressing the flipping switch cause the clutch to close without cranking the handle. This is more of an instagage button, but still produces the desired effect.

The pinion and main gear are a set and should stay together in any swap out scenario. You can do what factories often do and over lube the reel internals to mask the symptom.

There will be one in each side plate held in place with a wire clip and and maybe behind a pin on the spool shaft depending on model. I do not recommend the uninitiated to attempt removal of spool mounted bearings. My recommendation is to oil bearings in place as needed and have a professional cleaning done annually +/- depending on use

x2 less is more when it comes to lube

Merry Christmas to all the members, staff, sponsors and visitors to the ULTIMATE Bass Resource! From Our Family to Yours, Mike Lawson DVT

The Lews has spool bearings in each side plate as well as one on the spool shaft. The lube port is useless IMO as all you're doing is adding new grease on top of old. To get the old grease off the reel needs to be stripped. If you're unsure of how to remove the bearings a full break down may be more than you want to tackle at this point. You do not want oil or grease on the spool shaft. All that will do is hamper casting. Whipping the handle around on a reel isn't really a good indicator of problems either. Cranking the reel as you would in a normal retrieve feeling for any bumps, grinds or hang ups will give you a better idea what's going on inside. If you'd like to send reels in for service, members here get 10% discount.

The benefits of upgraded bearings vary depending on the model, age and condition of the reel and stock bearing as well as casting ability. From an enthusiast standpoint, why not? From a purely practical standpoint, upgrades are best done after flushing and proper lube of the stock bearings fails to yield results.

Not open old wounds, but just to clarify, trimming length from either end of a blank results in a slower action. With that said, 6" off the tip will greatly reduce casting effectiveness especially on lighter weight baits. If you still have the tip a competent rod builder can slice the pieces with good results. Barring that, retire the rod.

I agree with JF. Even if a bearing has removable shields, putting them on and off is more grief than it's worth. If you want to open them,might as well leave them open. That's how I run the OSC's.

You can send reels during the off season to have them stripped to the frame, cleaned and properly lubed. Service costs memebers $19.20($22-10%) plus shipping. If you decide to DIY you can post if you get stuck and one of us will try to help.

There is no video that I'm aware of that shows "everything". Each reel model has a 'gottcha' somewhere in the process. Basic rules to remember are to have a schematic and recognize that they do not necessarily show order of assembly, only parts listed. Keep harsh solvents away from plastic parts. Light oil on spool bearings, oil other bearings and sliding surfaces. Grease gear teeth. When lubing, less is more.

IMO MudHoles MHX blanks can't be beat on a bang for the buck basis. Especially on a first build. http://www.mudhole.com/Rod-Building/MHX-Spinning-Casting-Rod-Blanks/MHX-SB812-Blend-Blend-Rod-Blank

You're right to not tear into a reel if you don't have the skills, tools or confidence. Upkeep between services is important but does not take the place of regular (annual or so) full tear down and deep cleaning. Let one of us help you when the time comes.