Delaware Valley Tackle

Personally I prefer the sensitivity of braid. I see the argument for fluoro on slack line presentations, but I'm a line watcher and haven't made the jump there. One thing I learned from bed fishing, is that we all must miss lots of bites because a fish can inhale and spit a bait before you can react even by site. As for reels, again it's just a preference and mine is for a faster reel. Keep in mind though that the 8:1 and 7:1 may have the same IPT (Inches of line retrieved Per Turn of the handle)case in point: the Revo MGX and STX HS have different ratios but identical IPT.

Whether something is worth the cost or not is really personal preference. If the question is if the Curado G quality and features are on par with similarly priced new reels, I'd say yes.

The style keeper you're looking for is a drop shot keeper. They are readily available through rod building suppliers. Technically they are are to be wrapped and finished just like a guide. One of the work-arounds mentioned may be all you're interested in.

x2 100% spot on!

You'll need a new spool. They run $30-$40. I'd at least ask BPS about replacing N/C. The drag should have slipped well before the spol failed. Is there any chance the drag overheated and seized? A carontex upgrade with some Cal's grease would be worthwhile if you're encountering big strong fish like the ray.

I'm a Boca Dealer and offer a 10% discount off retail to BassResource.com members. Email me what you need and I'll send a paypal request and ship. Mike

Double weightless flukes are still well within the range of what most rod makes label as "medium" power. If the fishing real heavy cover or weighted flukes to get deeper a MH might make more sense.

Schematics can be found on most manufacturers websites. But please note: they are primarily a parts list and do not necessarily show the order of assembly or part orientation. If you have the tools and aptitude DIY is reasonable. If you would like a pro service send reels at your convenience. BassResource.com members get 10% off labor and after market parts.

IMO ratio/IPT is more about power than speed. Any heavy and/or high resistance bait can be more pleasant to fish (easier cranking) with a more powerful reel.

Chances are a spacer was missing causing the AR sleeve to not protrude for good contact drag spring washers. As stated, every brand has a lemon here or there.

The coated worm gear parts should last longer but won't notice any performance difference. If the stock parts wear out and need replacing you might consider upgrading them but outside of that I'd pass. If you're curious I'd suggest picking up a Pflueger Patriarch and fish it beside the PQ. Let me know if you need help with whatever you decide to do.

The Revo level wind parts are pretty much interchangeable with the PQ. I would expect the extreme as well but I'm not positive.

A 7' MH/F with a 6 or 7:1 reel is a very good all around casting setup. The C3 reel are workhorses and nothing to be ashamed of. I would not retire that reel at all. They shine as a cranking reel. Add a casting setup similar to the above reccomendation and follow it up with a M/F spinning rod with a 2500 size reel for finesse applications and you'll be able to effectively fish any common bass technique.

Ya, just get the right parts and be done with it. Getting "McGuyverish" could cause more problems.

IPT (Inches Per Turn of the handle) is the most accurate mearsure of a reels cranking power. The ratio works in combination with spool diameter to determine IPT. For deep cranking a reel with an IPT near 20 (typically 5.x:1) is an advantage. The same might be said for slow rolling really big spinnerbaits. Beyond that the differences are subtle and even more a matter of preference.

The basic tooling and design of BPS reels is similar to Pure Fishing (Pflueger, Revo...).

That's the result of quality light weight compnents used in a highend rod rod. You'd almost have to try to make them not feel "balanced".

There is no magic here. Sewing machine oil will work well if you have it around and often comes with a needle oiler or applicator. The most important thing is to properly flush the bearings regularly and lube them lightly as needed. There is nothing done to an oil that makes it "Fishing Reel Oil" other than being labeled as such.

The PQ is a fine reel and a good value. Comparing it to a Chronarch not apples to apples. My first recommendation is always to have the reel cleaned and the bearings flushed. The PQ uses a solid spool shaft design and responds well to Super Tuning. The stock drag is better in newer versions but the Carbontex is definetely better and relatively inexpensive. If the bearings are tired and need replacing anyway, then upgrading them makes more sense. Many other Revo parts like level wind bearings and eversilk coated parts will fit but again it's only worth doing if replacing worn parts anyway.

The infini-spool is a two piece spool shaft. The bearing on the spool sets in the frame and supports the spool when the pinion is disengaged which also lifts the free end of the spool shaft. The result is that the spool is free to spin supported only by a bearing on each side. The friction points of the shaft, pinion and spool end are eliminated.

The bearing on the crank side has no impact on free spool due to the Inifini-spool design. The bearing on the spool is critical but I also do not recommend removing the pin without the proper tool. One slip and you'll be buying a $40 spool. If ypu can find a bottle cap or similar tube deep enough you can soak the bearing without removing the line.

Dry. The tolerance and finish on the pinion and shaft do not require lube.

TSI: http://www.tsi301.com/main.htm FWIW, I worked in the lube industry for years and I can assure you, there is magic. I'm suggesting this is a bad product, just be realistic in your expectations.

As far as over the counter rods go, St Croix has one of the widest selections and very good quality especially in the Avid and up.

There is no "correct" or "incorrect" balance for a rod. It's 100% user preference. Personally, I feel weight is weight no matter where you put it and lighter weight with equal or better strength is the goal. By using light weight guides and an appropriate handle length in proportion to the rod a good feel can be achieved. No two people use the exact same grip and often the same person adjusts their grip according to the situation. Next, consider that the tip is fished in a variety of positions none of which is perfectly parallel to the ground. At the end of the day, fish whatever feels good to you.