Delaware Valley Tackle

Super Tuning includes a deep cleaning & lube as part of the service. The benefit that can be expected by Tuning, bearings or both depends on the model and condition of the reel. My recommendation is always to start out with a deep cleaning which involves having the bearings flushed and properly lubed. If bearings are bad and need replacing anyway they may as well be upgraded. Older and used reels benefit most from Super Tuning as a rule. Budget, casting skill and desired performance all need to be considered in deciding if Super Tuning and/or bearing upgrades are for you.

My website is www.delawarevalleytackle.com or you can click on one of my banners on this site. Pay Pal is fine. To send a reel please print a work order and include it in the package. To order parts just email what you'd like. Thanks, Mike

Super Tuning involves polishing of critical friction points that affect free spool. Specifically, spool shaft, spool shaft ends, brass tension spacers, inside of pinion gear.

A high speed reel (7:1) sometimes comes in handy when burning those baits. Sometimes that's what it takes to trigger strikes. Not that you can't do it with a 6.x:1, just a preference.

Thanks for your inquiry. The full floating spool design of the Daiwas makes traditional SuperTuning of no benefit to them contrary to what some competitors claim. A deep cleaning and flushing of the stock bearings would probably be helpful and is $19.80 for members ($22-10%). I'm a big believer in the Carbontex drags and discount them as well. As for the bearing upgrade, if you have them in other reel and want to add them they are $26.96/pair after discount. FYI - Super Tuning for reels with a solid spool shaft (Quantum, Shimano, Pflueger, BPS, Ambassadeur etc) the cost is $34. Let me know if I can help. Mike

Some of my customers like an especially short rod for skipping but it's not mandatory at all. I would suggest a really fast tip in a power taht will load well with the weight being thrown. The sweet spot is usually near the middle of the printed specs. A reel with good free spool will help generate speed for good skips but as you know will backlash badly if (when) it gets away from you. Of course there are always exceptions but most skipping spots are shallow so I wouldn't think much weight is needed. I do almost all skip casting with weightless plastics and spinning tackle. I had a great day and boated 2 doz bass on Labor Day this way.

Also, when you pinch the line to apply pressure you may inadvertently interfere with the level wind laying the line. Pinch the line well ahead of the reel and try not to apply pressure to either side.

A low ratio (IPT) reel for deep cranking is about as technique specific as I get with reels. I have a slight preference for 7:1 for jig/plastics fishing. If I thew a lot of heavy swimbaits I'd probably use a high capacity reel like a 300 or a round reel. As far as durability between the Shimano models mentioned if there's a difference between them it would be splitting hairs. Given your tendency to winch fish in, you might benefit from a crankin type reel if hauling in 3# fish with 5# of slop clung to it. I do just the opposite and use a stout rod to move them and a fast reel to take up the line.

I like the idea of not poking extra holes in the fish. I've seen the mouth clip style and they seem to often end up laying in the bottom of the live well.

I'm considering a culling system and see the Ardent kit on Amazon for $29. Any reviews, recommendations or alternative suggestions are welcome. I only do 10-12 club txs a year so I may not even need one.

For the best performance bearings need to be soaked and flushed with a solvent (acetone, naptha...) then oiled. Air by itself won't do much. This will do more for you than changing line.

The braid may be digging slightly as suggested. You can try some KVD L&L. As for the advantage of bearing swaps (or any upgrade for that matter) it depends on the reel model and condition prior to upgrading. There are steps short of bearing replacement that can improve performance. Max casting distance can be improved but whether or not that translates on the water is debatable. The main advantage in reel tuning and upgrades is the easier casting resulting in improved accuracy.

3 in 1 is a hair lighter than Yellow Rocket Fuel which is our default oil in the shop.

I just recently had Bag-O-Parts job in the shop. Well intentioned DIYers sometimes get in over their heads. No problem, we're happy to help.

The springs might be considered part of the side plate assembly. I believe the plate attaches by screwing onto the yoke posts. If you have the reel apart you should see a pair of coil springs about 1/2 inch long that press down on the yoke. If there is no tension on there the pinion will slip.

Throwing too hard is single biggest mistake I see with new baitcast users. A nice smooth cast is all you need. Accuracy is way more important than distance (that will come with practice). Learn to feather the spool with your thumb according to what the line is doing. You can practice this while sitting in front of the TV at night (if you have that luxury lol) by tying on a weight and dropping it to the ground and stopping the spool with your thumb. The bait you're trowing is not pulling the line out fast enough to keep up with the spool. Be sure the bait matches your rod specs and keep in mind that the bait's profile affects how it will cast. For example, spinner baits are bulky and loose momentum quickly where as a rattle trap will fly a mile.

I offer a 10 % discount to members here off the service price of $22 ($19.80 net) as well as after market parts like drag washers, bearings etc. I do a full service which includes what some folks have an upcharge for (light polishing where apprpriate for example). Return postage is equivalent to outbound with no handling charges. As for oil between services, the oil that came with the reel will suffice. If you don't have it, Oust is readily available in tackle shops or you can use REM oil or even 3in1 if you have it laying around. A small drop of gear oil on the level wind last a little longer than bearing oil and not be as tacky as grease.

The cost of service for members here is $19.80 ($22-10%) plus parts ($10+/- in this case)and return shipping (equal to outbound). Feel free to PM, email or call with any questions. Mike

Make sure the line is caught between the spool and frame and that the reel is not over-spooled. The spool should pretty much fall right out but the first time you might have to gently lift it out.

There's much more to it than removing side plates. I recommend touching them up as described and having a pro service done during the off season.

I would rinse with fresh water rather than dunking in any body of water. Let the dry well before storing. The level wind is exposed and should be checked. Brush and rinse it clear of any visible debris and oil lightly. Since you saw fit to dunk the reel, the bearings should probably get a drop of oil on each.

This question is like when to change the oil in a car, there is a basic recommendation but you have to adjust according to use. An annual deep cleaning should suffice with periodic reoiling of the spool bearings and level wind. If you experience any symptoms or noticeable decrease in performance address them immediately.

Mechanically they're identical. Go with the best deal you can find.

Yup, RM beat me to it and is right on.

Boca Orange seal bearings are a ceramic hybrid technically (ceramic balls in a stainless race) Stainless steel ABEC 7 or 5 bearings are an upgrade from most OEMs but I don't usually recommend upgrading until the stockers have been properly lubed for improved performance or wear out. I am a Boca dealer and sell to forum members 10% below retail if interested. As far as being noisy, ceramic are little louder than stainless when run dry but are faster. The difference on the water is modest in most cases and I install them mostly on an enthusiast level.