Delaware Valley Tackle

Those MHX blanks are the real deal. Glad you like it. Keep on catchin'!

The moderate action is more suited for cranks and other trebel hook lures.

12# is a little heavy for a 1000 size reel. I'd peel off 2 1/2 casts worth of line (75 yards +/-) and fill up with 20# braid. Add a fluoro or mono leader if abrasion or clear water are concerns. If you're dead set against braid, try a co-poly or fluoro in 6# - 8#.

Close tolerances help reduce wear as well while adding smoothness.

I raced the AMA District 3 (Central NY) circuit from '83-'98. It's a great sport with a real family atmosphere. The down side it's not a matter of IF you'll get hurt it's WHEN and HOW BAD. I missed two summers of work with a young family at home and just couldn't risk it any more. A steel plate and misc nuts and bolts in my left leg bring me back to earth whenever I start to miss it. The 4-stokes were just coming around when I got out. The power out put is more efficient and helps keep the 4 strokes hooked up but nothing is more fun than the violent, pull your arms out the sockets burst of a 2 stroke. Have fun and stay safe!

Nice job John, congratulations!

If you have salt water spinning gear you probably have heavy enough tackle for any bass fishing. If you want to try baitcasting I certainly wouldn't discourage you. Baitcasting gear handles heavier lines more easily and retrieves baits with a lot of resistance (deep cranks, heavy spinners...) more easily. Being able to use both spinning and casting gear opens up possibilities thus enhancing the fishing experience.

A moderate action is best for a dedicated cranking rod but for a multi purpose I'd suggest a fast or mod'fast action. 7' +/- is a good length.

The first time opening them can be a bear. Press in on the release with your thumb and rotate the side plate at the same time. I think the front rotates up. Loosen the cast control to take any pressure off the side plate.

The Winch is a great reel especially for deep cranks heavy large bladed spinners. Smaller baits that you might want to burn are probably better handled with a 6.x:1

Good find. Enjoy!

Today's high modulus graphite rods are susceptible to scratches, nicks and dents that can compromise the blank leading to failure. I'm sure rod lockers contribute here to some level. In general it's worthwhile to pay a little extra attention to how we handle our tools.

Below freezing temps are where I use the Recoil guides. I use them regularly on steel-head rods.

High pitched squealing during cast is typically a bearing. Make sure they are flushed and oiled appropriately. You can also check the spool edges and frame where the spool rides to make sure everything is clean and dry. The centrifugal brake drum should be cleaned with alcohol and can be very lightly oiled with a cotton swab.

Are you sure you are rotating the side palte in the right direction? Is the spool seated into the pinion gear correctly?

X2 Micro refers to a range of guide sizes and they need to match the application. They are not a cure all for every rod.

x2 This is the first thing to check.

Our philosophy is that Form Follows Function. I concentrate on building high performance rods that look good. As the saying goes, "You can put lipstick on a pig, and it's still a pig." There are plenty of reputable rod builders that put out some sick looking sticks that perform flawlessly.

Weight saving is by far the biggest advantage to micro guides which translates directly to sensitivity. Casting accuracy and to a lesser extent distance, may be improved by shooting the line in a straighter path.

That's an awsome find. That's almost as good a deal as when my wife sold 6 of my carbon arrows to a guy for $20. Serves me right for being on a fishing trip while she mans the garage sale.

It's a big misconception that a custom rod necessarily costs "hundreds and hundreds of dollars". If you are an enthusiast and want elaborate threadwork and other add-ons that are very time consuming, of course the builder will need to be compensated for their time. IMO GLoomis rods cost a fortune because they live off Gary's reputation and build in the cost of the replacement program. Don't get me wrong, they are high quality sticks no doubt about it, but the technology is not so far advanced as to not be rivaled. Quillbacks analogy of a custom suit is a good one. I'll be the first to admit, fish can be caught on a cane pole and baler twine, there's no "need" for either a custom or high end factory rod if your goal is to go out occationally and snag a few fish. Nicer equipment enhances the experience is all. If you're in competition, the rod is a tool and want that tool to perform in a very specific way. If you can find that off the shelf, there's nothing wrong with that at all. IMO, the point of diminishing returns on a production rod is around $250. As far as engineering and reasearch goes, a lot of people and companies are always looking to improve upon the status quo and the whole industry benefits. In addition, I would bet that for every dollar a rod manufacturer spends on engineering they spend 10 on marketing.

Delaware River smallies crush these things. It's not unusual to get strikes as soon as it hits the water. If not I'll float it along a current seam with an occational twitch.

Start now learning to live well within your means. Start saving NOW and keep it up through out your working life. Debt sucks the life out of you, your relationships and life in general. If you work 20hrs/week and save $5/hour, in two years you'll have saved $10,400.

Email me and I'll point you in the right direction. If my schedule allows, I'll fish with you if you want.

I would expect Daiwa to have parts for that reel, but TW has them new for $49.99. If you really like the reel you may be better off picking up a used one as a parts reel.