Delaware Valley Tackle

As a side note, those reels lend themsleves nicely to upgrades and are fun to tinker with.

Either would probably work for the catfish rod but there would be no real advantage of using the high speed there. That would come in handy where you want to burn a bait or take up line quickly like jigging heavy cover.

Just to get a feel for the tools, materials and processes, you can fool around with whatever you find laying around your house, garage etc. but they wont be really good functional lures. You will get a feel if this is a hobby for you though. Get this book: http://www.mudhole.com/Books-DVDs it has tons of ideas and instructions for all kinds of lure, jig and rod making. Only get into this if you find it enjoyable. I have yet to meet anyone that gets into tackle making just to save money who stays in it for very long.

Replacing a guide is a $6-$7 job. Even one way postage is going to cost you $20 min. Let me know where you are located and I'll try to hook you up with a local rod builder. For future reference, I ship via UPS if the rod/tube is 7'>. Priority or parcel post is competetive on the shorter ones but goes way up after a certain length.

At the very least that reel probably needs a deep cleaning and re-lube. THe bearings may be salvageable if thoroughly flushed and oiled. The Bantam Curados are prime candidates for super-tuning. If done correctly, those reels will outcast some current reels. It is possible to do more harm than good if you are not careful though. Let me know if I can help.

Lamiglas Excel and Competitor series are worth a look. The St Croix Premier line is right in your budget too.

The drag knob could just be dirty. If the knob tightens and loosens smoothly adjustment should not be affected. If there are tight or loose spots in the adjustment the knob or shaft threads may be damaged.

What make and model reel are we talking about? The clicker is just a noise maker and doesn't typically affect adjustability.

Schematics show a list of parts and where they go but not necessarily part orientation or assembly order. Sometimes the tricky part of bail springs is getting the tension put on them. Sometimes it seems like you need a third hand. There are different designs so it's hard to help without seeing it. Maybe if you post pics we can help you out. Shipping and repair would be about the cost of the combo, probably not worth it.

Lot's of bass are landed on finesse rigs using 6lb test. 10 should not be a problem if used with a suitable rod and under appropriate conditions. Different brands of the same test weight can vary in breaking weight, shock strength and knot strength too.

For bass fishing, using 15lb or so mono as backing with about 75 yards of braid as the mainline will work fine and save you some money. If you spool with braid you definetely need a wrap of tape on the spool for some "bite" for the braid. Keep some tension on the line as you spool as well.

The blowout prices make this a perfect time to grab a Shimano reel especially the Curado. If you can find one of the $98 sales that's about 1/2 price of the new Chronarch with the same specs.

The Daiwa design combines the benefits of both mag and centrifugal brakes. The Shimano system is simple and effective. Traditional mag only designs are my least favorite.

Platics, hard baits and metal (spoons) each have their time and place.

Modern braids are smoother and more round. Guide ring material is also improved. Go ahead and fish the braid.

The Orra is a good reel. At $70 less than the Revo SX it's a little heavier and has a couple less bearings. I like the centrifugal brake of the Orra over a mag only design. Keep the levelwind clean and lightly oiled. Watch for gear and/or pawl wear.

Power Pro is decent and affordable. Suffix 832 and Samurai are arguably better handling but a little more expensive. I have power pro on several reels right now.

The Falcon may be over powered by a 1oz lure. If building a swimbait rod I'd lean toward a MHvy or Hvy Mod-Fast blank 7'6"-8'

First off, Thank you for your service! Keeping your terminal tackle dry is a good idea. You can use dried rice in place of the silica if you want. Rods will be fine stored either vertical or horizontal in a rack.Just not leaned in a corner. The pvc could get pricey if you have a lot of rods. If you want the reels serviced we can take care of that. They can be stored wrapped in an old tube sock for safe keeping. Good luck!

Your budget puts you at price points with lots of good options. Scew the budget towards the rod, especially if it will be used for jigs, plastics... 7' Med Hvy / Fast action. Get the highest end rod you can and match it with a decent reel. The St Croix Avid line is a good starting point. ABU, Shimano and Daiwa all have good reels in the $100> range. Don't be afraid to consider slightly used either.

You'll have to check with BPS about any options with them. Sounds like the reel has performed well up to now.

Pure Fishing (ABU, Pflueger..) makes the BPS reels. If you decide to have it fixed I'll be happy to take a look. Trading it in is an option if you can get full value. I can't see just chucking it though.

If it was in deed bass herding shad against the surface, you need to be ready to strike right then and there. If you waited 2 hrs, the shad may have moved and taken bass with them.

Those numbers are to indicate spool capacity. On a 2500 size reel, line over 10lb will tend to coil and be hard to handle. A 4000 size handles the heavier line better but over 10# I'm usually baitcasting.

6' custom for top water, jerk baits and in close spinnerbait casting. Not a pistol grip but a short one.