Delaware Valley Tackle

The Curado has an anti-reverse clutch bearing and an AR pawl as a backup. Neither has any affect at all on casting. The spool is completely disconnected from the drive during casting. The AR pawl kinda rattles/clicks so we sometimes remove them just to quiet the reel some. As far as Revo vs Curado goes, both are quality reels capable of throwing baits farther tahn you could set a hook under some circumstances.

The required casting distance depends on the situation. Clear, shallow water, you may want to stay 50-75' from your target. Longer casts are beneficial for fishing deep cranks so the bait has time to dive and stay in the strike zone longer. I focus more on accuracy than distance. If you're shore bound, nothing beats a properly set up spinning rig for raw distance casting.

SR 765 Lamiglas. This blank has just the right blend of back bone, action and sensitivity to hook and land fish on deep cranks and cover. Mine is custom built with an Ambassadeur 4600c3.

Technique specific labels are just marketing. This is not to say that the manufacturer's suggested use for a given rod is bad advice, just that you don't need to limit the application to their suggestion. Focus on getting a feel for different powers and actions and the benefits each provides in a given application. Also keep in mind that there are no industry standards for rod ratings. It's all subjective on the part of the manufacturer.

The bail is spring loaded, and the spring has probably weakened. The pivot may be dirty as well. FWIW, closing the bail by hand will go a long way toward limiting line twist ona spinning reel.

Ghoti, Thanks for the compliment. RushFan, I concur with the recommendation of a MH/F rod for spinnerbaits. I'll add that spinning tackle is not ideal for moving baits with lots of resistance (heavy spinnerbaits, deep cranks...) A baitcast reel is more of a winch type engineering. I don't think you need more rods necessarily, but you may want ot rethink how you use them. I shore fish with a MH/F baitcaster for all lures 1/2oz> and a M/F spinning for <1/2oz. If i know I'll be throwing a type(s) bait I'll adjust what I bring to minimize compromises. I also usually have more rods in the vehicle. I'll be happy to take a look at your Daiwa if you want. Service costs $16.20 plus shipping for forum members.

I think we do ourselves a dis-service by limiting our choices whether it be by brand, spinning vs. baitcasting, graphite vs glass... I suggest identifying a need, selecting a handful of products that meet that need and then shop for the best deal. We're fortunate to have a great resource like this forum for help select potential solutions to our needs. Take full advantage and then proceed based on your own preferences and experiences.

We've all been there. Another trick that works for those as well as C-clips, put the reel into a clear plastic bag so if they take flight you don't have far to look.

Once you open the side plate you should see a wire clip holding the bearing in place. Remove the clip carefully keeping a finger on it so it doesn't fly away. You can fashion a bearing puller from a bobby pin by breaking it off at the bend leaving a small hook. Reach inside the center hole of the bearing and lift it out. Some times they fit tightly and require a little pressure to pop out. Hope this helps. Let me know if you need anything else.

Yup, that's going to need some work. It's very important to not continue using a reel that is not working correctly. Simple fixes quickly become compounded. Lube is important, but just adding lube on top of old dirty lube can do more harm than good. Do your best to keep dirt and grit out of the level wind and have the reel cleaned and relubed as necessary.

Yup, that's the "right" way to do it. Especially in a case like the OP, the level of servicing in that video would do nothing at all for a swamped reel or even a really dirty one. The one in the vid was pristine lol.

Ask for a cast control cap complete with shims. Without the shims the cap will not apply any pressure and you'll have the same problem.

This would be covered under my basic service charge of $16.20 ($18-10%)+ shipping. If any parts are missing or broken, I order them and pass along the cost. Bearings and Carbontex washers are 10% off retail. Super tuning starts at $28 but can be done to various degrees and quoted case by case. Thanks, Mike

Awesome video. Be sure to save it, my "Little Guy" is 6'2" and it seamed to happen overnight!

Tips: Load spool with a soft mono (Trilene XL...)avoid fluoro at first. Use a weight/practice plug on the upper end of the rods rating (1/2 oz>) Adjust spool tension on the tight side (so the lure barely falls when in free spool) Practice smooth easy lob/side arm casts. Concentrate on accuracy and not distance. Practice thumbing the spool without casting. Pull off 100 ft of line and put a piece of electrical tape on the spool to limit the depth of any over run/backlash. Stick with it and make it something fun to learn. If you start getting frustrated, walk away for a bit and come back to it.

I just tried again. Let me know if it's working. You can also email mlawson@delawarevalleytackle.com or call 973-459-2835 Thanks, Mike

If you are not mechanically inclined, as you mentioned yourself, you really should consider having your reels serviced professonally. If you insist on DYI, you'll need to remove the handle before the side plate will come off. Under the rotor is the anti-reverse. This is where you're most likely to encounter problems. There are several varying designs in use. Remember, the schematic shows the parts, not necessarily the assembly order or part orientation. Good luck.

This is a very good video to give you an idea of how your reel works and to help with a superficial service. This is in no way indicative of the pro service that myself others perform though. Our process is much more thorough and time consuming.

PM sent! Thanks

I use about 1/2 a spool of cheap mono backing, then braid and leaders where necessary. When the braid starts getting beat up I transfer it onto another reel and use the opposite end. Braid handles graet ona spinning reel and is super sensitive.

Don't get sun burned! Enjoy

A heavier lure will load the rod properly for a more effortless and hence accurate cast.

Modern spinning reels are complicated. It's only going to get worse once your're inside. I strongly suggest having them professionally serviced. If you decide to DIY obtain a schematic before attempting to disassemble any reel. Email me if you get stuck and I'll try to help you out.

A medium power, fast action rod will probably cover the broadest range of baits and fresh water species. One setup is really hard to cover everything so there will be some compromises.

You get what you pay for up to a point, then hit the point of diminishing returns. On a production rod, that is at about $250. At this point, I suggest considering a custom build to maximize your investment. Higher grade components and materials make a rod lighter, stronger, and more sensitive. Sure you can catch fish with an inexpensive rod, but you don't know what you're not feeling because you're not feeling it.