Fishes in trees

I want to be able to loosen or tighten every nut, bolt or screw on my boat and fishing truck, so I carry enough tools to be able to do that. I've checked most of the screws, nuts & bolts, so I really think I've got that covered. One set stays in the boat and another set stays in the truck. In my fishing truck I carry a 3 ton shop jack, to deal with tire issues, and a 4 foot extension for the lug nut wrench, (I'm not the strongest guy in the world, so I appreciate the extra leverage.) I carry a 12 volt air compressor and a 12 volt extension cord so I can go from the truck cigarette lighter to the trailer tire, and a couple of cans of that fix a flat stuff. I know many tire guys don't like that fix a flat stuff, but if you are caught out in the boonies, it will get you back to the garage. I carry a few rolls of duct tape in the fishing truck and in the boat. Same goes for black electricians tape. I have a couple of circuit testers, 1 for boat and one for truck. I keep a heavy duty tow strap in the truck and 150 feet of heavy duty nylon rope in my boat. I keep a couple of sets of jumper cables, 1 for truck and the other stays in the boat at all times. I keep 4 wheel chocks bungeed to the trailer at all times, and 3 orange traffic cones with name & address so I can save the space in front of my motel room. It takes a real jerk to poach your parking spot once you've marked it with cones. 2 first aid kits (boat & truck) I keep several changes of clothes (seasonally appropriate) and a set of coveralls. Several different flashlights & lanterns. 12 volt charger for the phone. I know I'm leaving out stuff. My fishing truck is pretty full. Stuff I've convinced myself that I might need some day. I fish by myself most of the time, so I try to be self sufficient, but I try to leave space for a passenger in my truck, I really do. Already I need to modify. A spare tire for the boat trailer is a necessity. Every year I see guys who don't carry a spare trailer tire and I know they are just asking for it. Generally it is guys with a newer boat and they bought it as a package and a spare trailer tire wasn't part of the package.

I experimented with drop shot fishing alot last year. I carried 4 and sometimes 5 rods rigged for drop shot fishing, from extra finesse to bubba weight. Most of the time, I had the "bubba" drop shot rig in hand, i.e. a 7'6" fiipping stick rigged with 20 lb fluorocarbon and for the most part a 1/2 ounce drop shot weight. While I caught fish on a wide variety of soft plastics, the most productive baits by far were a senko type imitator and a crazy legs chigger craw. Regular senkos proved way too fragile for me, so I fished YUM dingers or BPS stick-os or any of several other imitation senkos. Something with a thicker, more durable plastic. The Gulp sinking minnows worked great, but they dried up quickly if they weren't in the water all the time. I'd imagine that this coming year, the drop shot will be my go to technique for any water deeper than 15 feet or so. I also got bit quite a bit in shallower, dingy water.

I use medium light spinning gear with braid and a fluorocarbon leader to throw jerk baits. I don't think the gear ratio of the reel makes that much difference. I throw Lucky Craft 100 SPs most of the time and my goal is to throw that 1/2 ounce bait as far as possible and cover the water. For the most part the very limited stretch factor of the braid compensates for the flexibility of the rod. I haven't felt like the flexibility of the rod has cost my fish. The coolest part of this whole rig is that feeling your bait really isn't necessary. As soon as you pause your jerk bait, you give it slack line, some, not a whole lot, but some. The braid acts like a strike indicator, like trout fishermen use. Just glance at the line every so often. Should it twitch or do anything out of the ordinary, you tighten up and a fish will be there - 99% of the time. I'm assuming that you have really really, sticky sharp hooks on your jerkbaits.

I've got a couple of the Shimano Calais reel that are 6 or 8 years old now. Very good reels. I've got 5 of the Shimano 200 TEGT Calcutta reels. They are 6 or 8 years old as well. I like them better than the Calais. I have several Curado reels. They are ok reels. Should a bait casting reel not say Shimano on it, I probably won't buy it, so I don't know about any other brands of reels.

I buy bulk spools just because I don't like to run out. Over time it saves money too.

I had the opportunity to listen to Rick Clunn talk a few weeks ago at the KC Sports Show. According to him the Trickster spinnerbait was the smartest, the wisest, the most innovative spinnerbait there has ever been and it wasn't his fault that for the most part it didn't catch on with the angling public. I have a few of these spinnerbaits & I didn't find them to be anything special. But then, I'm not as wise or as smart or as deeply intuitive and spiritual as Rick Clunn, so maybe I don't know squat about spinnerbaits. Oh well, I'll have to carry on with my limited and stunted knowledge. So it goes.

X2 on the Buster boats. Put a Buster and a Pelican side by side and you can tell the difference. Oh, yeah, the Buster will cost more. Prior to getting my current boat (2002 Lowe WF 180), I had a Buster boat "Trophy" edtion. It came on its own little trailer, so I was a little limited where I could put in. (Lake had to have a ramp) I put in on some pretty shoddy ramps where I wouldn't consider putting in using my current boat. I liked my Buster boat. Fishing by myself, with 3 deep cycle batteries and a 55 lb thrust 12 volt trolling motor, I had virtually unlimited range.

I use it as an alternative to a spinnerbait. Just like spinnerbaits, I like the more life like colors in clearer water.

I'll probably start fishing in March, shortly after ice gets off the water.

I like that rod wrap stuff. I use it on most of my rods, no matter what the handle is made of. I like it cause it makes the handle a little bit thicker and easier to grip. The different colors help too. Soft plastic baits - grey wrap, spinnerbaits - red wrap, crank rods - green wrap, etc. It makes a difference when you've got 20 rods sprinkled all around the boat.

I've been told to wear hats like that by my doctor because of skin cancer issues. A few years ago a buddy of mine had roughly 1/8 inch of skin whittled off of each ear because of skin cancer issues. He always wore a ball cap and his ears were always exposed. I got a fishing hat from Columbia that has a brim slightly wider than an average boonie hat. It handles rain ok. At Cabelas, I saw a hat made of gore-tex, called a "Seattle Sombrero" I forgot who made it, but it was made for fishing /hiking in rainy weather. I have more issues with wind. I've had the extended brim on the had act like a kite and fly off my head on several occasions. The hat has a chin strap, but I really don't like using the chin strap. I'm always on the look out for the perfect fishing hat, but I haven't found it yet.

I prefer spinning equipment for jerkbaits because mostly, when the jerkbait bite is on, it is windy, and I have issues trying to make long distance casts in the wind on bait cast gear. I think it is important to be able to throw jerkbaits a long ways. The past few years I've used a 6'3" medium lite rod which had an extra fast action. I think it was a Shimano, but I don't remember the number. Next year I'm going to a 7 1/2 ft. medium lite rod which has a fast action. I use 14 lb Fireline with a fluorocarbon leader to throw jerkbaits.

I've got a few of them and I like them. I like how the wide spool handles braid real well. Mine are only a couple of years old, so I haven't experienced any drag or bearing issues.

I've read about these pro control units that turn a hand control trolling motor into a foot control one. I've been to their web site and it seems like a good idea that should work. I've never seen one - in a fishing tackle store or at Bass Pro or at Cabelas, or at a boat dealer or at a sport show. I think they are having some issues getting this thing to market. If you really want one, go to their web site and get a phone#, and call them up. I know several people who think this is a good idea, but I don't know anyone who has one or who has even seen one.

They are all good suits. Make your purchase on the basis on which one fits the best, because they aren't exactly the same. BPS gear has more logos on it, so there is the uncompensated walking billboard factor to consider.

I've had a hibernet in my boat for a number of years now. It works good and more importantly, it stores great. There is a learning curve to using this net, but as long as you remember that the top part of the hoop is flexible, there isn't any problem. The only issue with the hibernet is deploying it when you have a fish on. For this reason I also keep a long handled gripper in my boat that I use most of the time when I'm fishing by myself.

I like the oval split rings better than the round ones. I found them at BPS. Your line doesn't get caught in the split as often.

That's a good trick, getting the zippers on your tackle bag to "brake". Maybe you could patent that somehow. OK, sorry about the smartass comment, I couldn''t resist. Seriously, maybe you could find a decent tailor and get the bag fixed. I found a decent tailor several years ago, and she can replace broken zippers on tents, torn tent seams, etc. She replaced the elastics on a set of frog toggs and you can't tell them from brand new. If it has anything to do with fabric, she can fix it, and while she isn't totally cheap, she is reasonable. If you really like the bag and it's got some history, maybe you can get it fixed. Find a decent tailor and ask.

When you are bank fishing, almost everything is a compromise. You want to carry enough gear so you are prepared for most situations, but you don't want to be bogged down with so much stuff that mobility is an issue. Everything that you tote down to the bank, when you're fresh and ready to fish must be toted back to the car when you're tired and done fishing for the day. I assume you're going to be bass fishing and want to be somewhat mobile. First, you'll need something to keep all your stuff in. Different fishing bags and back packs are available. Take your pick. Back in the day when I was your age, fishing on the cheap, I went to Salvation Army and got the biggest sturdiest womens purse I could find. I found a big canvas one and as an added plus, it was butt ugly - neon green & black zebra stripes. In bank fishing, casting distance is important. It helps you cover more water so you don't have to move so much, and it may help you throw into areas other bank guys can't hit. I'd go with a medium or medium light rod action - help get more distance. A longer rod will, for the most part give you more distance. A longer rod is also more likely to get tangled on shore obstacles, tall weeds, bushes, etc. Pick your poison. Back in the day, I got by with a 6' rod and that was considered kind of long. 6 1/2 footers were available and 7 foot rods were rare. Take your pick on reels - there are lots of good ones out there. Make sure you get one with a spare spool or two, because there will come a time when you screw up a spool of line and you don't want that to put you out of action. I'd stick with 8 or 10 lb fluorocarbon. If you start fishing around heavier weeds or wood or stuff, you can go to a spool of 20 lb braid and the same reel will cast it fine. The #1 tool to get you off the bank and into position to cast into productive water will be a set of hip boots. The advantage you get standing knee or thigh deep in the water compared to standing on the bank is huge. One good thing about bank fishing is that it restricts the number of lures you can use. For the most part, deep diving cranks are out, as are jigging spoons, heavy jigs and all the other boat oriented lures. All you really need to throw are weightless Senkos or if you want to cover the bottom a little quicker, some shakey jig heads and worms. Pointy heads come through weeds better than round heads. Rounder heads come through rocks better than pointy heads. Pick your poison. You might want a stick bait or two - Rapala - Rogue - Lucky Craft - something like that. Early in the spring, throwing a stickbait parallel to the shore can be a monster pattern. Some guys might tell you to get a few spinnerbaits, I'm not a big fan of throwing spinnerbaits on spinning gear. Don't forget weather appropriate clothes and you're set.

Never did say whether you were bank fishing, boat fishing or riding in another guys boat. 3 different situations and three different prep modes. I carry quite a few tools in my boat and I hope I never need to use them. I want to be able to loosen or tighten any screw or nut on my boat or trailer. I want to be able to take the prop off my big motor and trolling motor quickly and easily ( and put it back on ) I find it is easiest to have 2 tool kits. 1 stays in the boat and 1 stays in the fishing truck. Besides that stuff I always have needle nose vice grips and regular needle nose pliers, scissors and clippers for cutting line and braid. I keep an upgraded first aid kit in a bracket up underneath the console. After you use it a couple of times you will want to upgrade to the waterproof band aids, etc. Wet Wipes and extra zip lock bags for obvious reasons. Even if you don't have to do #2, should you come down with a case of monkey butt, say perhaps from too many barley pops the evening before, you won't be able to concentrate on your fishing. Wet wipes can solve that problem. I generally carry a couple of extra changes of clothes (seasonally appropriate) in the fishing truck. If on the way home I plan on stopping somewhere to eat, I really don't want to be dirty and stinky. I've had waitresses suggest dinner on the patio several times when I was still in fishing gear. Especially in the summertime, after 10 or so hours of heat & humidity, a clean polo and clean shorts will improve your attitude on the drive home. Cell phone and a waterproof floating box to keep it in and it doesn't work unless you remember to put the phone in the box. A large float attached to boat keys and truck keys and don't have your boat keys and truck keys on the same key ring. At this point it is pretty obvious that I fish by myself alot, and I choose places and times where there aren't many other people around, so any issue I get myself into, I need to be able to get myself out of. And I haven't even started talking fishing gear yet. - maybe next post. This post has gotten too long.

Feet getting wet is a different subject. I found a pair of stretchy rubber overshoes at Orschlens for relatively cheap ($20 or so) I can stretch them on over any pair of shoes or boots I'm likely to wear fishing. They are mid calf length and they will keep your feet totally dry. I wouldn't go hiking in them very far cause I think they would tear up pretty quickly, but for keeping your feet dry in the boat they are perfect. I keep them in my fishing truck all the time.

I do both. Should I find lures in a bargain bin that I think are neat or collectible (happens very seldom) I'll buy them and put them in my collection box. One old geezer told me once that he knew guys who collected lure boxes if they couldn't find the lure. Now, for the most part I carefully open all hard lures I buy and save all the packaging in a waterproof/air resistant container. The cheap orange buckets and lids from home depot work great for this. For the most part, I cant drive by a fishing tackle store or a place that sells fishing tackle without stopping. Can't do it. A few years ago in an undesirable neighborhood in KC, stopped at a mom & pop store on a whim because I thought I saw a fishing rod through the window. They were in the process of closing out all their fishing tackle. The fishing rod was junk. The half a dozen 60's era wooden bombers were not. At $2 per hit, he thought he was getting the better of me. While this isn't the main focus of my fishing addiction, I've never done the math, but I wouldn't be suprised if I spent $150 or so a year, getting stuff like this. For KC area guys, there is an amazing military surplus store in the Argentine neighborhood of KCK that has an amazing collection of vintage fishing rods. Rods that at one time were towards the top of the line rods that now are 15-30 or more years old and never been fished. I think Mickey's is the name of the place, but I'm not sure and it has been several years since I've been there.

I almost always do. I prefer the 15 or 20 lb leader material as opposed to just using fluorocarbon line. Every so often I get baits stuck using braid and I've learned my lesson, trying to pull them loose by hand. I got several deep cuts on my hands before I convinced myself that it was a bad idea. Now, if it is a Lucky Craft or some other expensive bait, I just go get it, and I understand that after I am through getting it I'll have to move because I'll stir up the area pretty good with a lure retriever. If it is a soft plastic lure that is stuck, the easiest thing to do is to wrap the line around a boat cleat several times and back it off with the trolling motor. So far, that has always worked. Sometimes it will re-arrange structure prior to working.

Are you thinking spinning or bait casting?

I think the HIT (hydrostatic) vest are better than the AI ones. I had an Auto-Inflation one that self deployed once. Middle of the summer - extreme humidity - locked up in fishing truck and several days later when I was in my truck for something else, I noticed that it had inflated. A year or so later, I came across a good sale price on an HIT version and I bought it. I keep the other one on board as a back up.