Goose52

Another thought - has anyone had any issues with the digital maximizer controller board or the potentiometer that resulted in limiting available thrust?

I check for line wrapped on the prop shaft frequently - no issues there. All connections are good - solid and no corrosion. The battery is in an MK battery box and those connections are good. The TM extension cables are 6ga and solid. The TM connects to the extension cables with an Anderson SB50 quick disconnect and that's solid. Short of finding a motor shop in my little town (or having to drive to the "big city"), I think the next step is to take the battery back to Walmart and have it checked out. It's date coded 5/15 so it's a fairly new battery... Thanks for the replies.

I'm on the 6th season using a Minn Kota Traxxis 45lb trolling motor on my canoe. The first couple years, the motor produced all the thrust I could use, with the boat reaching hull-speed before the available motor RPM maxed out. I had plenty of thrust to handle significant wind conditions on the lake as well. As time has gone by, however, I'm noticing that available thrust is diminishing. I started this season with a fresh TM battery and thrust is still down significantly from when new. This thrust reduction is confirmed by a reduction in top speed as indicated by the GPS on my sonar, as well as a noticeable reduction in the ability to handle headwinds. Thinking it might help, I installed new motor brushes and compression springs and that made no difference. In fact, the old brushes were only about 1/3 worn. Question: Has anyone else noticed a similar reduction in thrust on their TMs and, if so, had any remedies that worked? Or, do these machines just "wear-out" and need periodic replacement? Yesterday, I got caught in a pop-up thunderstorm and had to make a run for the launch point, bucking headwinds. The 'ole war canoe just about started going backwards in the heavy gusts. I need to do something about this issue pronto. I'm inclined to just get a new TM, perhaps moving up to a 55lb Traxxis. Thoughts?

My Walmart is typical - one aisle, with the usual stuff. Not a big selection of any one thing but enough to go fishing. Like most of us, I purchase quantity items on-line but have to use Walmart for items that I need immediately. For me, it's the only tackle outlet within about 40 miles (there are pros and cons of living in the sticks... ) My Walmart rarely has any clearance items, and when it does, it's like only .50 cents off. Also, with all of Walmart's purchasing power, they seem to sell many items, espescially crankbaits, at full list price with no discounting.

........................................and MAKE sure you pick up a personal flotation device..................................and WEAR IT ! Also, if you haven't been in a canoe lately (or at all), take a practice cruise with just you, your PFD, and your paddle to get an idea of the handling and available stability before heading out fishing with all your gear... Have fun !!

A good suggestion.....but then you need another BC reel. And so it goes...the slippery slope to tackle-mania... OP - what gear ratio is your current PQ? If you could swing another PQ, you could have a 6.4:1 or 7.1:1 on the Ghost and a 5.2:1 on the Ugly Stik.

Your specified baits would usually mean THREE rods for most folks. Weightless t-rigs might mean a medium-power, fast or extra-fast action rod. Frogs are most often tossed on a medium-heavy, or heavy power rod. Crankbaits are typically tossed on a medium, or medium-heavy (depending on the weight of the bait) power rod with a moderate, or moderate-fast action. Many feel that if you can only have a SINGLE baitcasting rod, then a ~7' medium-heavy, fast action rod is as close as you can come to covering the most bases. Depending on how soft the tip is, it may, or may not, give marginal service for cranking however. Welcome to BR !

Mine is always in the boat - fished it today in fact. I primarily use it for t-rigs, but the beauty of this rod is that you can use it for practically anything in it's weight range and get good performance. T-rigs, light jigs, flukes, ligher paddle-tail swimbaits, lighter spinnerbaits and other single-hook baits. You can even crank with it in a pinch. If any of my other BC rods/reels go down while in the boat, this rod can sub for them on the lighter end of the weight spectrum. You're not going to pull hawgs out of the slop with this rod, but in open water it will handle some nice-size fish...

Line on the reel and fish slime - outstanding !

A coincidence - I just caught a 7.5lb channel cat today on a 6th Sense Crush Flat 75X squarebill. While bass fishing, I've caught channel cats (the only species in my lakes) on cranks, lipless cranks, inline spinners, and plastic grubs.

I don't have a list, but one option is the first-gen Revo S handle - came stock with 4 bearings - here's one on a 1500C. I got this handle a few years ago for about $20 at Dad's Ole Tackle.

Now THAT'S the way to break in new tackle ! CONGRATS !!

Retired to the display case in my man cave / den / office / bunker...

Nice work indeed. Good thing you stuck to your original plan...

FWIW - The reel foot on a Curado I (well, the JDM Scorpion version) measures approx. 2.45" in length which is the same length as the foot on a Curado 200E7. Assuming the new Citica is on the same frame as a Curado I, then it would seem to be all samey-samey....

Only one little pocket in my (inflatable) PFD - which contains a whistle...

Roger - did you mean to say "back in the 80s" (or perhaps "90s")................................................................

Hey Raul - keep passing the word - you can't catch bass on December 31st ! (This keeps everyone off the water). For me - 8.4 LMB, Tennessee, December 31st, 2011. HAPPY NEW YEAR !

Here in my little lakes in east Tennessee, May and June are the peak months. Fishing is NOT over by any means after July 1st...but fishing does slow down. The bar chart below shows the total number of bass that I have caught, by month, since the end of the 2009 season. Catch rates peak in May/June, down quite a bit in the hot weather in July/August, then it starts tapering down as you approach winter. Note that on this chart the bars for July through December do not yet have 2015 data so the bell curve will change a bit at the end of this year. Also note that this chart is influenced by a number of factors: 1) the overall "catchability" of of the fish by season, 2) my skill level to find/catch the fish in the various seasonal patterns, 3) work/travel time that is seasonal and keeps me off the water, and 4) seasonal weather changes that directly affect catch rates (like low water temps or hard water...).

Small fish, big fish - they all have slime... Congrats on getting the new rod on the water and catching fish...

"...which reels are actually rigged ready for your next bass fishing trip whether it be by bass boat, kayak or foot..." Reels with line, mounted on rods, ready to go: 11 spinning 41 baitcasting

When Loomis went to a "Wildcard" system for the NRX, you used to have to send off to get the Wildcard. Now that Wildcard is gone, it doesn't appear that you need to do anything special. Loomis has their warranty information here. Perhaps one of the Loomis experts on the board can confirm...

You beat me to it...I was going to post my usual "now you need a reel, line, and fish slime" comment... My new NRX 852S will be arriving tomorrow. Thanks for the tip about the sale!

Good show - those mods should make motoring easier for you. I'm only 62 but have some neck and back issues and twisting to the side can be a bit of a pain at times so I wouldn't be able to comfortably use a rear-mounted trolling motor. I have a double-ended canoe and have my trolling motor side-mounted which is easy to use and the asymmetrical balance isn't really an issue. You can see my motor location in my avatar photo. Enjoy your "born-again" boat !

It's handy to trailer it for sure - saves rigging and de-rigging time. In my case, when I bought my canoe I also bought and installed a trailer hitch for the car at the same time. Never used it. While I was deciding what trailer to get for the canoe, I started car-topping. What I found out was that for ME, the car-topping, rigging, and de-rigging was not a big problem. My canoe only weighs 34 pounds dry - and weighs about 44 pounds in the configuration that I actually lift up on the roof of the car. It takes about 12 to 15 minutes to rig/de-rig lakeside. Not a problem so far. For me, the disadvantages of car-topping (extra effort and some extra time) are less than the disadvantages of trailering. Finding a place to park/store the trailer, not being able to get into some spots without boat ramps, etc. I'm 62 years old now and might have to consider trailering some day....OR, there's always the option of getting a lighter-weight kevlar hull canoe that is easier to lift on the roof...