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Carrot_Stix

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  1. Can I be effective in MOST of my spinnerbait presentations with just one type of spinnerbait blade combination (tandem)? I used to throw spinnerbaits a lot when I started bass fishing....but I started to learn other lures/techniques. The ONLY time I ever throw a spinnerbait now is when the conditions are 100% prime and I know I will get bit. I have spinnerbaits I don't use now and its taking up space. I don't want to have to buy 6-8 different spinnerbaits when 3-4 will do. Just trying to save money, time and organization. Thanks.
  2. Anyone know a reel that can cast 8LB test/light lures REALLY well and is cheap 100-150$. I need a baitcaster for dropshot and I do not want to go to spinning tackle. Thanks.
  3. I feel like I have too much line on my spools. Even with my FARTHEST CAST, I still see a lot of line on my spool left. Also when I get a VERY BAD BACKLASH, I end up wasting a lot of line. What is the best way to make my spools a little shallower for less backlashes and for saving more line? I heard "electrical tape" maybe? Just today, I started spooling 20LB mono as BACKING half way on my spools and using a ALBRIGHT KNOT to connect to the other line. Is using thicker line as backing, a good way to make a shallow spool? I figure, when I need to spool again...I can spool at the end of the mono, just like before. HELP !?!?!?!?!??!?!?!
  4. I am FINALLY getting enough time on the water to notice and get used to my reels/rods/line/techniques more and more. BASICALLY...when setting the drag... You want it to be LIGHT enough so a HOOKSET does not break your line/rod AND/BUT TIGHT enough where your HOOKSET will bury the hook GOOD. I also know that setting the drag also depends on what technique your using at the time too. 1) Am I right/on the right theory? 2) Who sets their drag ALL the way TIGHT no matter how soft/light your line/rod is OR technique your using? I know this is a REALLY DUMB/RHETORICAL post but BARE with me as I am a BEGINNER BASS ANGLER with BARELY ANY experience who just needs REASSURANCE. Thanks.
  5. I need some advice as to which brand angler's here might favor a little more. I currently use E21 Carrot Stixs but want to change now. I am looking at changing my arsenal to ALL Powell or Dobyns. Many good reviews for both so I need some input. The only difference I see is: 1) Price. I might lean more towards the powell cuz it is a lil cheaper. 2) All of the Powell rod lineups seem to have extra fast actions. I have never fished a extra fast. What are the pros and cons for a extra fast"? Hope you guys can help me out. Thanks.
  6. Seems like there are numerous jig head designs for different applications. I am so confused. 1.Football head, casting, standard, flipping, arky Can someone clarify as to which is used for what and when? Can you interchange them? Does/can one type excel at all applications/situations better than the others? Thanks
  7. What does it mean to have your reel in "free spool"? Does it mean setting your brakes to "0"? Or does it mean setting the spool tension back a little more so the spool spins easier/line comes off faster? Thanks
  8. 1. How are you supposed to set the hook on a football head jig? 2. What is the proper equipment to fish 1/2 - 3/4 oz football head jigs from the shore? (Rod, Reel, Line) 3. Is the strike on a football head jig subtle (tap) or a aggressive inhale that gives you more time to set the hook vs the subtle tap?
  9. This will probably sound stupid but I saw someone at the local lake use it on a senko. It looks sufficient and easier than the traditional way so here goes.... Can I use a weighted hook for Texas rigged plastics (originally for paddletail swimbaits) or should I stick with the ORIGINAL way of weighting a texas rig with a bullet head pegged?
  10. I want to change baits fast because of size or color for hard baits. What do you guys use for your hard baits? I like snap swivels because I don't get line twist but I feel it lessens the action of the lure though. With the other two I am always afraid/hate the line twisting. I just don't know which one I should use. Thanks.
  11. Every angler has his/her own technique but I need some input to help me catch more fish. 1) I use a sweep set to the side most of the time...when i sweep...how long should I hold the rod in the set hook position before pointing it towards the fish to start my retrieval? 1 second? 3 seconds? 2) When I do my sweep set...should I start to wind my reel as soon as I start my set or should I wait to reel when I start to point my rod towards the fish? Hope u guys can help me out. Thanks
  12. What type of knot is best for a football head jig? I am using the palomar as of now as it is the easiest for me to tie. What do you guys use?
  13. I am in a pinch financially and can not afford to buy good fluorocarbon like I used to. I usually buy Seaguar for all of my Fluorocarbon needs. It ain't cheap (20-24$ for 200 yd spool, abrazx and invizx). But financially, I want to go cheaper. Like around $10-$15 for 200-250 yd spool. Looking at Vicious Fluorocarbon. Only $10-$15 on *** for 250 yd spool. Is Vicious line any good? Any experiences? Pros and Cons? Comparisons to other brands (Seaguar)? Thanks
  14. I have an extra E21 carrot stix 6'9" MH fast action and was wondering whether to keep it or give it to my brother. I am deciding whether to keep it based on the 2 techniques above that I am intending to use it for. Is a 6'9" medium heavy fast action sound good for T-Rig senkos and lipless crankbaits? I do want to start fishing senkos and lipless crankbaits and was wondering if that rod would work. Thanks.
  15. I have a 6'9" medium heavy fast action E21 carrot stix. I use it for jerkbaits, shallow crankbaits and topwater. I am going to replace it

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