Javelin200

I just spooled up a swim-jig rod with 40# SPB. So far so good. No backlash or 'dig in' issues. I'd agree with everybody else here. Re-spool with the same (new) 50#, or reverse the line.

BI has it right. My HB frog rod is an old 7' MH BPS Extreme Walleye "Spoon" rod. It's really more of a heavy-fast action. I have an equally old Browning Aggressor reel on it, with equally old 20# Moss Green Fireline. It'll throw a Spro Bronzeye into the next county, and has pulled more than its share of 4+ pounders out of the slop.

You're kidding about the "hit a rock with (it)" thing, right???? If you're predominantly running rivers, I'd suggest sticking to aluminum hulls. Whack a rock with that beautiful Ranger, and you'll be cryin' all the way to the bank....both of them.

I've been in one. Very nice entry level Ranger. If it's in good shape, and the motor checks out, you can't go wrong if the price is right. Are you looking private, or thru a dealer?

Excellent job. A few people make a pretty good buck on the side doing these types of conversions. You should consider it.

This statement was inevitable. Surprised it took so long. .....Friggin' Old Rusty Dogpile

This. I've had two Javelins, and nothing but good times in both. That E-rude is a strong motor. Make sure to have the transom checked for integrity. That model year still had plywood construction. If everything checks out, I'd jump on it for that kind of money.

Rule of thumb is to power up with the maximum rated HP for any given boat.

I also put the line on after soaking it in water. I will also spray some Reel Magic or KVD in a rag and run the line through it as I put it on. Excellent info. Thanks.

Combo rods. Put your $60 towards a better stick.

I spooled up some crystal on two spinning reels prior to a Fl. salt water trip. I experienced the same thing Dave described. I won't use it again. OTOH, I've had the same original FL on my Frog rig (baitcaster) for close to 10 years. I wouldn't switch it out for all the tea in China. In clear water, there may be some advantage to crystal, but if line visibility was an issue, I'd be tying a fluorocarbon leader to my original FL.

Don't blame ya there. That'd be my next move.

I wouldn't put anything less than 15 hp on that, but that's just me. You've already gotten some "red flags". Motors that "just need tune-ups"??? I'd tell the guy to keep the motors, and run him down on the price for the boat only. Not sure what you're budget is, but be patient and don't jump on the first thing that looks good. There's plenty of good deals out there to be had, and the season is just warming up. Where in NY are you?

Get the motor serial number and contact Evinrude directly. They can give you guidance on the correct plug and gap. You don't need "resistor" plugs on that motor.

I'm not so sure 100% fluoro deserves the bad rap it seems to get in the strength/knot discussion. Certainly the majority of published "tests" show fluorocarbon generally has less knot integrity than comparable diameter or lb. test mono's, but there are ways to mitigate the frequency of failure. Tying clean knots, proper lubrication before 'cinching' (s-l-o-w-l-y), and re-tying often eliminate a majority of break-off issues due to knot failure. As far as overall "strength" goes, depending on formulation, most 100% fluoro lines test out just as well as mono. I'd guess a lot of fisherman have a habit of tying on a lure at the beginning of an outing (or season!!), and expect the line to lure connection to last indefinitely. Unfortunately, that rarely works out. 100% fluorocarbon is different than mono. The more familiar fisherman become with it's unique properties and handling characteristics, the better they'll be able to manage it's use in their presentations....that is until the next big whiz bang line material takes the fishing world by storm.

Still sounds like overheat. Sometimes those muffs do not provide enough volume to effectively circulate water throughout the powerhead. I'd suggest skipping the driveway tests. There's really no need for it. The last thing you need to do is to fry a piston or warp a head. If it starts fine there, it'll start fine at the pond.

Now I'm jealous. Good for you!

Me too.....and fishing was so simple back then.

Looks they were mounted on Walleye forms.

I hope you're running it in the driveway with muffs on, or in a dunk tank, otherwise you've probably destroyed the impeller (and or the water pump). Huge no no. Sounds like you're overheating the engine. The engine will not re-start if overheated.

May need to replace the trim relays.

ive always adjusted the trim for max rpm's. as far as sinking from trim adjustment, thats never crossed my mind. What's being referred to here is the dangerously over-exaggerated stern-low boat attitude caused by improper trim angle at 'blast off'. BP215 did not have his engine trimmed in far enough, resulting in the prop driving the stern of his boat down into the water instead of pushing/lifting it up out of the water, and onto plane. As I'm sure you can appreciate, this will create a considerable amount of backwash into the boat when cutting the throttle back to idle speed.....similar to what happens on most rigs if you fail to trim in before coming off plane.

Glad I could help. Have fun, and save some NY lunkers for the rest of us!!

I'm gonna go out on a limb here, based on your response. Assuming your Evinrude is rigged with power tilt / trim, here is a brief explanation: Tilt: That range of motion that "tilts" the engine up or down to angle the motor for transport, storage, or access. It is the upper range of motion, allowing the most significant angle change. Trim: The range of motion designed to adjust the attitude of the craft in the water while under way. This is the lower range of motion, enabling the gearcase to be 'tucked' parallel or slightly inward of parallel to the transom to assist in planing the boat out from take-off, and allowing attitude changes to the boat once on plane. When you raise and lower the engine with the hydraulic tilt/trim, there is a noticeable difference in resistance between the two. Starting with the engine tilted up, press the trim button down and hold it. The engine reaction will be fairly fast until you reach the lower limit of the 'tilt' range....keep holding the button down. At this point the angle adjustment will feel like it's bottomed out, but it hasn't. The engine is now into the 'trim' range and will continue to gradually tuck (much slower movement) until you let off the control, or it reaches the trim limiter on your transom bracket. Ideally, you want the engine trimmed all the way in upon take-off. When you're ready to get on plane, mash the throttle, the bow will rise for a few seconds, and then begin to settle over and level out as you approach planing speed. Once on plane, you can throttle back a little and begin making outward trim adjustments to raise the bow and keep from "plowing". From there it's a matter of adjustments to throttle and trim angle to adjust speed and ride. I apologize if this is something you already have a grasp on, but based on your response, I figured it better to start from scratch. I was in the same 'boat' you are in when I got my first glass bassboat. I had no idea how to work the trim/tilt properly, and d**n near sank the boat before I figured it out. Aside from the embarrassment, it was dangerous. Wish I would have had somebody to give me a little orientation before I got started. If Burdett was closer (I'm in Rochester), I'd come give you a hand. Best of luck, and be safe.

Is this your first time operating an outboard with power tilt / trim? What boat / motor are you running? Sounds to me like you don't have the engine trimmed all the way in.