Javelin200

If your leaning towards the BPS Extreme, I'd suggest the EXT68MS.

1) 12-14# Mono (Trilene XT Green) 2) 12# FC or fluoro co-poly (P-Line clear) 3) 17# FC (Trilene 100% clear) 4) 14# Mono (Trilene XT Green) 5) 15# FC (Trilene 100% clear) That's what works for me.

Walking the turd.

Because 'flippin' is a short line technique, I don't think it much matters. I use 20# Trilene BG, and it works just fine for me.

What articles / shows have contributed to the change in your opinion? Here's my take: Not unlike alot of other boat anglers, my boat aquisitions went through an evolution. From 8' aluminum canoe, to 16' aluminum bass, to 17' glass bass, and lastly 20' glass bass. I primarily fish small to moderate size inland lakes for bass, with the occasional "Great" lake foray thrown in. This set-up works very well for me. I'm not a tourney fisherman, so there's no incentive for me to beat up myself or my equipment if the water gets unruly, but I'm certainly happy to have the larger rig when caught in adverse conditions. Your choice should be predicated on the type of water you'll most likely be fishing, the type of fishing you'll be doing, whether you'll be needing extra space for family / friends, and if you'll be using the boat for 'other' water related sports activities. If I was primarily fishing rocky Northern US or Canadian waters, I'd probably opt for aluminum for durability sake. If I were fishing large inland lakes prone to larger waves or weather influences, or where trolling may be involved, I'd go for a larger glass or aluminum V-hull. Ditto if I planned on entertaining more than one or two other anglers in my boat. Bass boats generally have shallower drafts (allowing you access to some spots V-hulls may not accommodate), definitely have an edge in the speed department, and more effectively allow techniques like flipping and pitching where a raised deck is almost paramount. Today's glass bass boat designs are far safer and more efficient, and glass multi-species rigs such as the Ranger "Fisherman" series offer excellent compromise in both layout and capabilities. That said, I don't think there has been any more innovation than what has gone into today's aluminum boat offerings. They still have the lion's share of the fishing boat market, and offer up some great values, and top of the line fishing amenities Shopping is half the fun. You just need to decide what type of rig will best serve your purpose before you pull the trigger.

If you have a BPS near you, check out the Extreme Woo Daves 6'8" ML. I bought one of these last year, and have caught everything from crappie to 4# smallies on it. LIGHT, sensitive, split grip, and plenty of backbone. The more I use it, the better I like it. I have it paired with a Pfleuger 9030 Supreme XT.

i used that handle on my Revo SX but then took it off cause it would work it self loose , not really the handle nut , but the handle it self was getting rounded out where the crankshaft goes thru it , didn't actually fit good like a stock handle did , plus the handle flexes way too much . i took it off and am gonna replace it with the skeet reese handle , already got all the parts , gonna have Mike from Delaware valley Tackle , our site sponsor , put it on after he does some upgrades to the reel Good to know, thanks.

BPS sells replacement handles for BC reels. I think the longest one they advertise is 4-1/2".

Lots of great used rigs out there. Aside from adding your own preferences of electronics, it's a sure bet you can find a rig in your price range that is relatively 'turn-key' and ready to fish without investing any sweat equity to make it ship shape. I'd stay away from "fixer uppers". Good luck.

I tow my 20' Javelin with an '07 Silverado Crew. I love that truck. Although Silverado or Avalanche will work just fine, be open minded and shop around. You'll save a ton of cash if you can find something one or two years old with low mileage. They're out there.

TIMS602-1A = 6' Spin Med Pwr - Fast Action - 1 pc. TIMC664-1A = 6'6 Cast Heavy Pwr - Fast Action - 1pc.

Take a gander here. I followed these instructions on 3 of my Abu's, and it made a huge difference. http://super-tuning.home.mindspring.com/i1a.html

Contact your state DNR.

2 - Abu's and 2 - old BPS Pro Qualifiers....love em.

I bought a Plano binder years ago. When I ran out of "pages", I just punched some holes in some HD ziplock sammich bags and added them in. Works great.

I have a mixed collection. My favorite (hands down) is Norman Professional Edge. I've hung more bass on a Deep Little N in Root Beer than all my other cranks combined.

Incorrect....NY now allows C&R only bass fishing from Dec.1 - 3rd Sat in June (start of the regular season). There may be a few waters with special regs, but this is now policy state wide.

Join your lines with uni to uni knot.

...a.k.a. "construction season"

It's called a "trim" tab or "torque" tab. It's actually part of the sacrificial anode attached to your anti-ventilation plate.

Which ever type of reel you can comfortably and effectively handle....spincast, open faced spinning, baitcast. They'll all work. Depends on your skill level and what your goals are.

They are "recommendations", not limitations, and in alot of cases very general. Yes, there will be some casting distance issues with light lures on heavy rods, but alot of it has to do with the rod tip stiffness. As has been mentioned, no harm whatsoever in tying your 1/4 oz jig on the new rod. Good fishin' !!!

Thanks all for the warm welcome. ww2farmer - never fished Silver Lake (but I love the Drive-In!!)...are there any HP restrictions there?

I have a manual...be glad to copy and send it to you. Email me @ znu2@rochester.rr.com

I hear ya. That's why I like my Jav...ur sittin' in it, not on it.