Hooligan

True, but it isn't gel spun. It is a completely different fiber, known as Aramid. They're very, very different from the fibers uses in fishing lines.

They don't stock the popmax it's the pop x. Vision 110 Vision 110 +1 Vision 110 Tour Premium Pop X Xpod Giant Dog X Vibe X Deep x 150 Deep x 300 Deep 6 Xdad Flap Slap Knuckle 60

They stared welding the eye just this year, I believe.

I can't post some of it, because its proprietary data. Others can't be posted because of the direct link being blocked. Calling braid impact resistant, or abrasion resistant is completely untrue. It is neither. It has extremely low impact resistance because of its low stretch. High load on low stretch equals failure. The same for it abrasion resistance. Fish any sort of abrasive vegetation like reeds and rushes and braid is completely annihilated in a very short time. It isn't hearsay, it's fact. Yes there are braids that are more abrasion resistant than others, but they do not compare to fluorocarbon.

I don't fish the slop craw much. When I do, I have been using a 4/0 snelled, the pit boss is ok with a 4/0, as well, because of the ribs on the top and bottom of the bait. I prefer a 5/0 with, however. When I am fishing deep deep junk, I tend to lean more towards a 4/0 to eliminate some of the chance of hanging up. The nice thing about that hook in Havoc is that the baits are soft enough that clearance doesn't really get to be a huge issue; the bait compresses pretty readily and moves well on the hook shank, allowing for better hook sets. Advantage VMC, too, is the hook pints will not roll. I've fished zebra mussel lakes with the hooks, and unlike the trokar or gamakatsu heavy cover, the point is hard enough that it won't roll.

I'm alright with the VMC hook. It has a bit larger keeper on it than some others but in the long run that isn't too major. The Trokar has accounted for several lost fish for me because of how large a hole it punches. I've had several fish that just backed the hook out somehow, even with constant pressure from the rod. I've not lost a fish in a similar situation with any other hook. The singular drawback to the VMC is the gap of the hook doesn't always match well with plastics which necessitates three sizes of flipping hook where I can use one in the Mustad. Also, the resin coated eye is super excellent. No more braid breaks at the joint, and it snells extremely well.

Dark water requires darker baits, black blue, black neaon, or flipping blue. The silhouette of the dark baits is much better established. Loud baits are not always the answer. Many, many times I've been fishing a jig with rattles only to have fish short strike it. Switch to a non-rattle model and it gets demolished. The same is true of crankbaits. In general with dingy water you want to use colors that offset the shade you're in. Jigs and plastics go very dark, junebug, electric blue, black blue. Though fire tiger cranks will work, I've never done well in darker water. I tend to lean more towards chartreuse black or Rayburn red. Dark natural craw colors or chartreuse baitfish patterns work very well, too.

I detest storing jigs in boxes for any length of time. Weed guards get deformed, and bent. I store all of my jigs in the small zip lock bags they come with in a XL Plano without dividers. I put them in larger zip locks by size and by color to separate them. Jigs I am going to take if I am fishing with a partner go in a 3700, max of about six each. After each outing, anything not used comes out of that box back into the zip locks.

I have 2 of the HG reels that I've put a little time on this spring. Thus far I'm extremely infatuated with them. They're simply incredible.

I do, and I remember the complaints about the D, and the Sf. The entire theory is based in the thought that they should have maintained the reel in the same format as the E, at the lower price. It just doesn't work that way. People continue to compare apples to walnuts with the G series reel, as such there are people unhappy about it. Lastly I see far fewer complaints about the G series than I do about other reels, on the whole. It remains fairly isolated and generally is from the same few people. The number that are happy far, far outnumber those whom are dissatisfied.

Far from Joe Blow. We were in meetings for two days. And the short reply was be a use I'm sitting in an airport typing on my phone and it randomly decided to post before I was done.

I've gotta go with CH51MG, it is just such a special little reel. Second and third tie would be JDM Calcutta D and a Megabass Zonda68.

Shimano hasn't said anything about redesigning the Curado. There hasn't been any word of it anywhere except here in this thread. I have talked with Shimanoabout it and not a thing was mentioned; and it would have been at that point. For the record, if you think the Curado G series hasn't sold, you're completely wrong. It is just as strong, if not stronger than the E series I. Terms of units moved. Moreover, it's been the general fishing public that has been screaming for ten years for their $150 price point Curado back. Those are the bread and butter of that category, and Shimano listened. The Curado target audience is not the Enthusiast, or those that claim to be. It is the weekend tournament angler and part time pro that needs to fill a stable with a quality, but reasonably priced reel. They've done it, and it is selling extremely well. I love that so many have so much input on something they have no experience with, in either the business side or on the real use side. In those cases, they're completely baseless opinions, founded on nothing by speculation. It's irrational at best, ridiculous and over blown at worst. I guarantee you 100% that Shimano has gained market share with the reintroduction of the Curado in the classic, historical price point; they've no lost it at all. As for the future of the Curado I see it continuing to be a workhorse and venerable member of the Shimano line. It will continue to perform at the highest levels and meet the highest expectations of the most demanding anglers.

In a lot of the southern tournaments I fish, it's something that will work from 70 degree water through ice up. I use it extensively.

I almost always respond with "jigs" as a stock answer when I am local. If I'm on the road at a tournament, I am generally much more forthcoming with what's working and what I'm doing. I don't, and won't, give everything up, but will give the basic information.

You couldn't be more incorrect.

I laugh at the notion that the G is junk. I've spent hundreds and hundreds of hours with the G series reels in my hands and have yet to have a single issue. The notion is laughable at best. Those "reviews" that are negative have come, I'm willing to bet just as the majority of those in this thread, from people that have spent no time with the reel at all. I've got 15 on rods, along side E series Curado and Chronarch, and have been just as happy with my G reels as all the others. It's a bunch of naysayers saying nay. That's all, nothing more. There are other good reels out there, there's no doubt of that, I have many. But this whole thing is just ridiculous.

You heard wrong. I swear I need to hardcopy a response to these.

Have used this weighting method for years. Also use the method that sets the weight on the hook all the way at the nose when more of a vertical drop is wanted.

That's terrible advice. Your line will be incredibly twisted if you intend to use it again, it will not come out when you detach from the spool. Every revolution will have added one turn of line as it sits on the spool.

Nine times barb deep or deeper. The two worst were both Muskie fishing. I had a big fish hooked and on her way to the boat, about ten feet from the boat she gave a head shake and a 10" Weagle came screaming at me with all nine points of the 5/0 trebles baring down on me. I turned my head because I thought it was about head level. It wasn't, it got me in the thigh with 5 hook points buried. And I mean BURIED. That one took a hospital trip, after I cut the hooks and tried to push them through. 26 stitches, too. The next was very similar, was throwing a Sennet CreepTonite and had a fish launch on it pretty close to the boat. I could tell the first time I sent the hook I didn't have her hooked well, so I set the hook again, dislodging the bait and drawing it toward me. This time, however, we were on Lake of The Woods about a two and a half hour run from anywhere that could do anything. Luckily the guy I was fishing with was a dentist, and a freak about first aid kits. He had lidocaine and a scalpel, as well as a staple gun with him so we cut it out there. Four staples in my right calf just below the knee and we were back fishing. I got smacked in a tournament by my partner one time, buried an owner 4/0 round bend worm hook in my chest after he set the hook on a fish, didn't get the fish and it came back at me. Left that one in for a couple hours because we couldn't bear to go back to the ramp and kill fishing time. Luckily, we didn't because he caught a 4.95 and I caught a 6.55 that put us in 1st after a three day tournament. Had we left we would have been in 7th.

One thing that will help keep them from rolling and twirling on the cast is to either to side arm cast, or lightly thumb the reel down if it does start to roll in the air. I noticed that yesterday, and paid a lot closer attention to it. Both those things help to I crease distance.

Hybrid isn't satisfactory for top water baits because it sinks, still. It's terrible trying to get popper to work properly with fluorocarbon.

Up north- at no point did I say catastrophic failures were caused by voids. Frame voids decrease torsional rigidity and cause components to deteriorate more rapidly, far more rapidly than any of its counterparts. Oddly, the only two catastrophic failures I've experienced firsthand with a reel have been Shimano reels. One was a Core 100MgFV that I broke the frame on, left side directly in front of the spool housing post and the level wind tie in; and a Curado 200E7 that I broke the foot in two length wise, and the fire portion of the foot cracked in two. The metal in that case had a very granular structure that was very unlike anything I'd ever seen prior, or have seen since.

Incorrect. Both Shimano and Daiwa use exclusively Japanese made bearings in their reels with very, very few exceptions. In most cases, they grade higher than an average bearing, such as those used in most Pure Fishing reels because the tolerances are too loose. If you also consider the rolling resistance the ball precision, and the smoothness of the ball a d surfaces, they stand head and shoulders above. It isn't a petty argument, it's fact. I can also tell you that, regardless of what you feel, Lews standard bearing in all but their highest grade of reels are nothing approaching the quality of others. They, along with Pure fishing, were denied ISO rating on their bearings because runout was far too great.Don't get me wrong, it isn't turning into a Shimano v Lews v Daiwa v Pflooger v Okuma. The discussion has turned to components and longevity. I've spoken with goose a number of times, not only about his reel, but others. It's a fair statement to say that his reel is nothing short of extraordinary. Yet, that's due in part to the care it has received as well. Not everyone is going to take care of their gear in the same capacity. I can tell you first hand that when I was sponsored by reel company A, I had nearly triple the reels ordered in one twelve month period as I would have with reel company B. not because the frames broke or bent, not because the AR went bad, or even because the retrieve sucked. In most cases it was simply that the casting accuracy and ability had diminished very rapidly- that's due to bearings more than any other factor. Argue all you'd like but the facts say otherwise. In response to what I do, I work in R&D/engineering amongst other things that I do for the company I work for. I'm not at liberty to divulge that because I do not represent my company here, only my thoughts and information I have gathered in those processes. In regards to the cast aluminum versus duralumin gear- huge difference between the two. Some companies say duralumin or alloy drive gear and that's fine. But know what it is. Two dissimilar metals can, and will, react with one another. Be it excessive wear or corrosion. It can and does happen. Again, a large difference in the quality of a brass drive gear, and a machined and polished brass drive gear. Not all are created equal. Pure reels that do not use Xcraftic, for instance use a stamped gear. Lews uses a stamped and polished gear on reels above the 200 price point. Shimano uses a machined and polished gear in most casting reels. Daiwa is the same. What difference does it make? A lot in terms of longevity and how smooth that reel is over time. Micro cut gears? Only one company does that. Lastly, voids in a reels frame do cause failure. It causes a weak point and as the tendency to add stress and torque on the frame. In some cases not enough to notice. In others, it has been enough to oblong the spool side bearings. One last, last, thing. Engineering and design in reels accounts for a tremendous amount. I fail to see how the Curado and Chronarch have been cheapened up, or corners cut. Much as I fail to see that the Zillion has been cheapened, or how the Lexa is a cheap reel. Stuffing more beari vs into a reel does not a better reel make. If that's the case, the Core must be he worst reel on the market. I mean, it's only got five bearings which is as much as the Citica D, so the D must be just as good as the Core, right? I had more to say, in regards to another post, however will not because I know it would be edited and I shouldn't have said it in the first place. What I will say, however, is that I'm amazed at how short sighted we can be. Anyhow, long rambling response to try to address some of the things that were directed back at me.