Crookedneck

Good looking stuff. I like the spring craws.

Here is a preview of a rod I am building. Got a little tiger wrap going. Couple more coats of epoxy and it will be finished. Your thoughts on this thread work?

A question like this is hard to answer as there are no real grading systems from one blank manufacturer to the other on power and action. to answer your question on this specific blank move your hand position up the rod 3 inches to get the feel of it. I do not believe that you are going to make the rod a moderate by cutting 3 inches you may see a little bit of a difference. It will be minor when it comes to action I would believe. You will probably see a bigger difference in the power but even that will be slight with only 3 inches. By trimming the butt you will see the power drop more towards a medium light (not saying it will be a medium light) if you were to trim the tip you would be moving more towards the heavy side. Now again let me restate that it is all relative on the maker and construction of the blank. My question is if it is a high end rod becareful as any modification to the rod or blank will probably void any warranty. I would be intererested to hear what Deleware Tackle would have to say on this subject.

I fish from the back of the boat almost exclusively. I have been for the last 2-3 years. It has taught me to adapt. I think the best advice I can give is to have the best gear you can afford. My first year I had low end gear. I missed alot of fish that year. I have been lucky to have boaters that I have learned to work with and we actually work well as a team. There are days that the back of the boat will get the sweet spot first. Just depends on wind, current and conditions. My main partner and I initially had 2 different styles of fishing. He liked deep water. I spent most of my time shallow. In the last two years, we have both learned to fish each others tactics. It has made us both better. Funny thing is now he feels more comfortable in shallow water and I love fishing deep now.

I hear you on that price of cork statement! $1-3 for Flor grade cork. That is per 1/2" ring. There is a reason people ask for split grips. That can get pretty steep for a 10" rod grip. I myself put eva on a majority of my rods, if you can find the high density stuff it is pretty good.

This is the 3rd rod to go out in the last week. Another one on the bench and only 7 more before the end of April.. This is for a buddy of mine who likes it when I make them bright. I did a few new things on this build. I used spinner blade reflective tape on the split grip and on the exposed blank between the reel seat. He'll probably get a headache from this one. LOL! I used epoxy ramps on the reel seat that I used blue pigment to add some color to the epoxy. Guides are American Atlas Halide's Reel seat is a Fuji SK2, which I trimmed the threaded portion to give a larger opening. (Not sure if I like this seat or not) Blank is a MHX-MB843

I actually use a Medium Ruck sack (military issue) with Plano boxes in it. I fish alot of tournements as a co angler. And I do take the kitchen sink with me. I took the metal frame off and put the back pack straps back on. Plenty of room in the side pockets too.

OOOOoooo! I see a few that have my name on them...... Good job, Ben!

I use the aeresol. I have used a few others all seem to work pretty well. I just prefer the reel majic.

Yep agree with the above posts. 7' MH/ Fast is what I toss mine with. I think hooks and reel speed affect the action on these more than anything.

I use Reel Majic on my braid. Makes a big difference, at least in my opinion.

As you are just starting I recommend that you stay away the fly lines that are cheaper, when I say cheaper I mean $15-20 that you can get at most smaller non-fly fishing specific stores. Where the cost is going to be tempting casting with it is more difficult. I personally recommend a Double taper line. Simular to a weight forward, when the line gets to the point where it starts to sink and no longer wants to stay up in current, you can strip the line and flip it around and get double the use. As both sides of the line is fishable. There are some people this doesn't work for though, for those who can cast 65-75' or into their backing. But, starting out it should work. Essentially, giving you twice the fishability and saving you $$. I also recommend using a fly rod that has a moderate action starting out. It will be easier to cast and control your line in the back cast. As you get better you can then change actions to help casting in windy conditions. The below link has some very good free casting videos and fly tying videos. http://www.tightlinesflyshop.com/ And probably the most important bit of info I can give is not to get frustrated. Fly casting comes easy to some and others it can take awhile. But, once you figure it out it is addicting. Good luck!

It all comes down to the almighty dollar. Look up the cost between the two hook keepers on any rod building site. $2.00 difference between the two types of keepers. Now I know what I pay is going to be totally different than what a company like St. Croix is going to pay. But, there is still going to be a price difference. And over the course of say 5,000 rods that is a lot of money.

There are uses for all types of rods and blanks. To say fiberglass is the best or graphite is the best depends on the application. Toolemera, there have been a lot of advances in graphite in the last 10-15 years. Where graphite is not for every one or every type of fishing it is possible to find that balance between performance and durability. When it comes to current rods or blanks typically the fiberglass is much heavier. For instances if you take a 9' Medium power fiberglass surf blank the weight of that blank is going to be 7 oz. A comparable blank in an IM6 Graphite weighs 5.25 oz. A comparble blank in an IM7 is going to weigh 4.375 oz. All three of these blanks are very comparable in lure and line ratings. Cost of said blanks would be $66 for the glass $96 for the IM6 and $141 for the IM7. All 3 blanks are made by Lamiglass so there fore comparing apples to apples. It is going to be a given that the glass is going to be the most durable and flexable. I don't think any one would argue that fact. The big differences between the 3 is that the fiberglass blank is going to have a slower action rated at moderate. The IM6 is going to have a Moderate Fast. The IM7 a fast action. These differences in action are attributed the type of material used in construction. The tip on each blank is separated by only a .5 mm. And butt dia. of the three are separated by .175 of an inch. All this being said, Like I said earlier all 3 blanks are surf blanks. If all 3 were built the same, with the same components same layout. And I were to hand them to you you would find the IM7 graphite lighter due to the type of material. You would find the fiberglass more wet noodle like based on action alone. Applications would be different even though they are all surf blanks same power, line and lure rating based on action alone. I guess my question to you after all of this is if you like what you have why change it? If it is simply due to the fact that your gear is older but still functional, I say get in touch with a custom rod builder and have them strip and re-wrap/build your current gear. You will have the action and power you like and are comfortable with but it will appear new to you. I will also dare to say that if you think your current gear is light, get it to a builder that is knowlegeable and you will find that due to current advances in guides and components fractions of ounces will be saved in the rebuild. If you want a change in pace then hit up a local sporting goods store and try and find what you think will fit your current needs. Just my 2 cents.

Looking good! Sweet looking key chain. What do you use to make your stencils? I thought I read some where that exposed film was used.

Congrats on the Registry program Scott!

These are a couple spinning rods I am building. I still have a little thread work left and decals on both as well as finish that has to go on both. The blue one is a MHX-SJ842. 7' ML The red one is a MHX-SJ843 7' M

Any time I throw cranks whether lipless or lipped I like to use a 7' medium power rod with a moderate action. This can be achieved a couple different ways. You can get a rod that is graphite with a moderate action, you can get one of the newer graphite-blends that is going to be a moderate action or you can go with a glass rod that is going to give a moderate to slow action. I talk about the action of the rods because any time I use treble hooks I like the moderate/slower action to prevent the likely hood of pulling the hooks out on a premature hook set. Faster action rods when used with crank baits tend to lead to poor hook ups if not used properly. The comments above aren't off base nor do I feel they are rude. I believe your mis-understanding of the replies is based on the fact that you asked a very general and non-specific question. Such a question such as I want to throw 1/2 ounce lipless crank baits into heavy cover using braid is going to get a totally different answer than I am planning on throwing 1/8 once lipless cranks into river current. Maybe a little more info or specifics on your part may help with the answers. Good luck in your search.

Good job on the builds guys.

I fish Quantum Bait casters exclusively. I have fished Shimano, Pflueger, Diawa and ABU as well. My personal preferance is the Quantum. Have I ever had a problem with Quantums? Yes. I had/have a Kinetic which is my lowest priced model that I had a drag problem with. Quantums customer service replaced and I was happy with the service. I have Energy Pt's, Tour Editions and my favorite model which was discontinued is the Catlyst. Looking at my reels the Tour's do seem to fade and have boat rash, but they are also my oldest models. I use Pflueger spinning reels, because for the price I don't beleive there is a better reel out there.

I would suggest going with at least 8 micros for a 6'6" plus your tip top. But, like said above a static test is the only way to go for sure. Don't let the micro's scare you. They are only small guides if you can do a build with regular guides you can do it with micros. When doing the static test lay it out first with standard guide placement then do a spiral. See which you like better. You can use 1/4" masking tape to do a static test also. The other bit of advice I would give would to use a Forhan Locking wrap if using micros, I also use this for 6's when building.

Last year I bought a pair of Wiley X polarized prescription glasses. Close to 400 but worth it if you ask me. As long as I don't loose them or drop them in the drink. I would rather break 2 custom rods versus loosing those bad boys. Work great on the water though. Got tired of magnetic clip ons.

Good call on this!! I used Mitchell for years and yes it would be my second in the price range...

Best bang for your buck in my opinion is a Pflueger spinning reel. The President is right around $60. Smooth, casts great. For the price the best reel out there.

If you are going to be doing more casting the MH will be better, IMO. If you are going to be pitching to heavy cover then get the H.