Mr.Sheephead

Okay heres what i did I took some small ZIP-TIES and sinched them down to a diameter a bit smaller than my worms i use for my wacky rigging... I then just snip the tag ends and super glue the part were the connection of the ring is to make sure it will not sinch down more and there you go! a wacky ring for wacky rigging it works just like the rubber O-rings but they are stronger and more durable only downside is theres a bump in the ring since the connection is held from the little box thing that the tag end goes thru to make the zip ties able to loop and sinch down on something. Its easy to make if you have the time to make em! What do you guys think of this? i used a few and landed bass of all sizes and some 2 pounders as well! works the same acts the same and performs the same as a O-ring the worm goes out wayy before the wacky ring will ever wear out!

Okay so after losing my trophy today whatever fish it may have been (felt like a bass) im pretty destine to find her again. I caught her in a pond that has small drains that leads to other ponds around the area. Were i caught her was were the pond narrowed and led to a drain. The ponds are decent sized they all connected but i feel one pond is big enough to support a large bass without that bass having to move to the other ponds. Im motivated to fish around the pond that i lost my beauty but what i want to know is if she will be around the same spot were i lost her and also if i did catch her would the hook and plastic i lost to her would still be on her or at least the hook? how far do bass move from time to time and were would they move? how far do they actually move and do they ever stay in certain spots for a long time? this is my secret area all i will tell about it is that its somewere not in the main counties and cities but more further out in MN

the line guides on the rod accout to the drag as they cause drag when the rod is lifted up (12-2 oclok position) they push againts the line and make friction which adds about 30-40% to the drag and when using really light line and a fish is about to break you thats when you lower the rod to relieve some drag or friction on the line guides making line easyer to come out..... i learned this off a fishing guide on youtube..... Im guessing it was broken at the knot since i landed a few small fat good fighters before losing my beauty sometimes when i inspect my knot after time the knot looks to have shrunk and the mono became compressed from being pulled and constantly tightened after catching a few fish..... how often should i retie my knots? which knot holds best and fastest to tie? NO palomar knots tho because they have way too much tag ends when finish tieing... I use The Hangman's Knot for all my knots unless im drop shotting

I have landed a 3 pound bass with 8lb mono and its my personal best so far in my 2 years of bass fishing. Today I tried a pond and landed a few small but fat bass then i caught something huge! compaired to my 3 pounder this one had way more mass and more power but that split second i set the hook i new it was too good to be true. Just 3 seconds later i see it swim off to the left and i folowed it like i always do and tried to let him tire but i forgot to drop my rod to eliminate my line guide drag and the line snaped on me either that or it was a toothy fish! just that feel of disrespect! made me wonder should i go to 10lb mono? THE POND HAS LOTS OF SCATTERED PLOTS OF WEEDS BUT IF I WAS EVER TO BE DOGGED DOWN INTO the weeds i have enough scattered spots of open water to let the fish run to. I fight fish by settin the hook once try to bring em in and when they swim away to either side i follow them and if i feel there gonna snap the line or shake it out of there mouth i let them run off with line..... i do this to alot of bass i catch even with 30lb braid and even with some small bass and my loss of fish due to hook shaken out is 0 but line snaping from teethy fish is 2 and line snaping from a fish idk about is 1 so give me all the advise you can about my situation! Thank you very much guys! for those who have no idea what i mean when i say your line guides are part of your drag heres a video of what i mean

I just adapt to my rod my gloomis imx fast action rod is my all purpose rod and skipping with it just takes practice. skipping a shakey head is not doable unless you skip it really hard! you end up tearing the plastic. trying to skip hard jig heads like the shakey head and other hard tackle is like throwing a rock into the ground only way to get a nice skip is weightless plastics. when skipping look to try and throw the lure not at the water but more like trying to get the lure to just be casted above the the water straight and above the water and when the lure falls it will SKIP and there will be lots of skips if your getting a skip then it flys into the air or dosnt get another skip until the lure is far out there that means your trying to skip it hard by throwing it at the water. hope i explained this well enough

I saw some multiple piece Fly rods with reels all in a pack ready to go and fish at gander mountain. The cheapest one was a Pflueger which went for like 50-70 range and it seemed to catch my eyes. Thinking about buying one now but I dont know were to start! What size rod would I need? Should i even get one? I mainly fish bass with a spinning rod and a baitcaster and I call myself a semi pro... not that im soo good just that im averege to better than the averege bass fishermen and i only fish from shore! Any ways yea I dont do much panfishing or trout fishing since i do not have the time and gas to drive far to fish for trout. What are the main fish targeted with fly fishing? Should i get one?

I can find molds online for rather cheap and plus my dad can make em from metal from machining but what i need to know is how to melt old torn up soft plastics to make new ones. Can i melt different plastics to make one pot of melted plastic to pour? Do i need a one piece mold to make like a grub or do i need a 2 piece mold to make like a senko worm? if i need a 2 piece mold how do i pour and then close it? basickly Im thinking of making my own softplastics

if its mid to late post spawn when would that phase end?

I live in the metro area of Minnesota and I would like to know when the bass spawn phases start and end. Bass opener is this weekend and in the past I will always hear that in the spring after "ice out" the bass will be in pre spawn and cranks and T-rigs will work when fished slow and then the spawn will be a few weeks later and the same lures and speed for pre spawn bass will work as well and then the post spawn were catching them gets harder which is usually the time i wait until after the post spawn. All this time I thought it was right after ice out i would catch bass then spawn i would catch them and then post spawn i would not catch any maybe just one small one. All this in the time span of I'd say mid March after ice out into late April or mid may. Take that time span split it into 3 and that's what i believed was the time that the 3 spawn phases happened and then in summer bass were just bass nothing to change their behaviour except weather and baro pressure as soon as summer came in June i be catching them with whatever anything from top-water frogs to T-rigs and everything in between. I just recently learned that the bass spawn is occurring this weekend during opener when the water reaches 60 to mid 60 degrees and that post spawn will occur when the water reaches 70 degrees which should be around June..... JUNE! the spawn phase were i thought bass were not biting but what the hay! i caught them in the past with any lure i can throw out! can someone help explain how long the phases last and what the real time the phases happen and end.

nice video man nice place as well and were is that place if you dont mind tellin me. and if so can you tell me the months-days that the pre-spawn, spawn, and post spawn happen in minnesota. RedBear i didnt realize it was this weekend lol I know man Its this weekend man im hiped!!!!!!!!!

Im looking to get some polorized sunglasses and Im not sure what color would be best. I like to see thru the water but at the same time see the original colors of my surrounding as close as possible. I have somewhat poor eyesight only good enough to drive without glasses. I have worn unpolorized sunglasses and I hate when they darken everything alot and it makes me dizzy and become poor at juging things. My frand has these chepo polorized glasses they have like a blue lens and make the water look yellow to tan-brown and they seem pretty good to me. What would be a good choice for lens color for me? I wanna see thru the water as much as possible and to see the original colors of my surrounding as best as possible and to see enough light rather than block it.

jeesh a boga! i rather get a new shimano curado but im not sure there are lots of scales out there like digitals and spring scales. just to let you know i think the digital scales become very inaccurate over time ans spring scales may be unconsistant i will catch a 2 pound bass that feels heavier so im not sure but a boga with its price should be very accurate i mean cmon for the money it better be! if you got the cash for the boga go for it and when you get it hang some vairous weights on it to be sure its accurate.

yes here in MN bass are closed at certain times until May 29 and its illegal to target them when in closed season. Im gettin my game plan on since they open in 2 weeks and if anybody knows when the bass opens here in MN will they start hitting topwater lures like frogs? if not when will they start hittin the frogs?

I am so hiped for bass openner in MN and Im working on gameplans like what will i throw and what to use. I was at Coon Lake throwing a storm kickin minnow for pike and man were they slamming it! I caught a small bass as well and while walking in the water along the shore I came across a weeded area with lily pads and saw a nice 1-3 pound bass swimming in the shallow weeds and I threw my bait around him and all he did was swim around and didnt find it much interesting. This made me wonder what should I throw when openner comes when bass are like what I just saw when they see the lure but ignore it and they dont seem to bite. Plus what lures should i be throwing when the openner comes (May 29) and what lures should I be throwing into weeds and lily pads? Open sandy/weedy shoreline? Are the bass in the spawn still right now? or are they in the post spawn? Im guessing post spawn since openner is only 2 weeks away and the bass should be done with the spawn cycle by then right? Thanks for all the help Anyone else pumped? Whats your game plan?

Im a shore angler looking to get further into the water but cannot afford a boat and cant afford to maintain one. I have seen float tubes on youtube and they seem pretty fun and something different but what gets me is that the float tubes looks a little hard to manuver and get to places faster. What also makes me shy away is saftey like the seat looks like it sags into the water and seems like i may sag down and fall thru between the seat and the strip apron that is used by fly fishermen and if i would not sag thru, it would look like a uncomfterble seating like sitting in a chair while someone is behind you lifting the chairs 2 back legs making you sit at a sloped angle. Not only that also what would make me question is my gear. I have g.loomis rods so droping that into the water would be terrible and also getting my reels wet would be bad for them also storage places seems small i usually carry 2-4 of those typical low slim profile plastic tackle bins with other small tackle bins and tools, will the tube compartments be enough? Also how long does it take to inflate? Could it fit in a truck when inflated? Last but not least the quality of the high to low priced ones. I have found a cheap unused tube on craigslist which was the cheapest modle tube on cabelas and it seems like a good tube, would any tube be good for a beginner?

I know that this is not a fishing tackle but here seemed best to ask. Im a shore angler and I got started into fishing IN the water with my swim trunks on. Well the broblem is i cant get far enough because of my wallet and phone in my pockets plus a camera if not mounted on my hat for filming. Im not too scared to get my $1 pliers wet and my knife im more worried about my phone, camera, and wallet. How should i keep them dry without hassle of taking it out to use or access? also how about backpacks and a way to attach my rod to it so i can carry 2 rods

takes PRACTICE and alot of patience dont expect to be fishing since alot of backlash will occur while practicing longer harder cast plus number one rule is to train the thumb to control the spool in a cast to prevent backlash and remember to check your breaks are set right with the lures weight just takes time frustration and patience to get it I just recently learned to do an over head cast with mines and i have been using it for 2 years now im better at pitching and side arm cast just remeber that a spinning reel is a cast that can be FLUNG hard with a snap motion but a baitcaster is more of a LOFT or using the lures weight to fly at the same speed as the line basicly all a baitcaster is is a sling style weapon were a rock is held in a pouch conected in the middle of 2 strings and using the momentum of the swing over the head plus the rocks weight to launch the rock or also like a sling style catapult also known as a trebuchet

Need help finding out what companies makes these 2 soft plastic swimbaits and also the names of the swimbait alone. Buddy of mines gave em to me.

I'd love to try that thing seems to work with the worm charming method thanks everyone i went and tried digging for some worms again and finally i found some worms it seemed that when you dig for them its the same as worm charming since i found a few on the surface that i hadnt spotted in the ground but at the same time i found some in the dirt the only problem i had was that alot of the were too thin that you would need a small hook to get the hook hidden some were short some pretty long and in the middle but they all had one thing in common, they were all skinny worms! any other advise i can get for getting the bigger worms?

what your doing wrong I think is that the sinko are fatter than finess and trickworms and when the bass are taking the senko that means they are feeding normally to aggressively and are taking in bigger lures like the fatter senko what you should try since you want to get away from senko fishing is buy bigger fatter worms than the sneko or worms with the senko size but with a twister tail or something. Also what your not trying is the finess and trickworms on a day were FINESS is needed to catch fish on those days for me the small senkos will catch me bass and the slimmer worms will produce better than my senkos. I hopped this helped you.

I have heard of worm charming or grunting by vibrating the ground to get worms to come to the surface but I had'nt had any success with this method i have tried everywere and just to day I tried it and soon after I quit 15 minutes later i saw two worms on the surface for some reason. guess it works but very little success. I can dig for them but that's messy and i don't know were you would dig for them also I have seen people pour water around the base of a tree and worms seconds later will rise to the surface but what I don't know about it is if they are using tap water natural water or some kind of mixture to get the worms to surface. can anyone help me figure a way to get worms for fishing without having to buy them?

its gonna be a while before i finish these and other lures i made because i cant figure if i should use eye screws or thru-wire<---don't have a clue how to do it--- or if i shuld just twist some wire into eye screws and glue em in the wood i saw this in a youtube vid of a guy making a swimbait plus cant get my hands on any paint or something to seal the wood

yes and no my dads a machinest and can make me all the molds in the world and custom ones for free rather than buying metal softplastic molds from tacklemaking sites (sell for $80-$100) does this save me money? yes because i can just melt my old torn used up soft plastics or buy some plastic will you save money? depends if your like me that loves to do their own work you can find out how to cast your softplastic lure bodies and melt some of your own old plastics and pour them into the molds you have made. then only way to explain the cost is what RESOURCES you have like me i have a machinest to make me free metal molds so im set otherwise you will have to buy metal molds yourself for $80-$100 or cast your own molds or buy the cheaper plastic molds from tackle making sites that sell for $5-$20

well blades if you have a grinder you can make em out of dinner spoons of various sizes but you can't beat the real blades for lures but for the clevis for the blades will most likley have to be baught

So I decided to go crappie fishing for the first time in a few years at Coon Lake MN were I use to always go to as a kid. The lake still looks the same over at the DNR access. I was fishing at the rocks and didn't even get nibbles so I went over to the back side of the DNR access to were the lake goes into Thielen Park around the houses and I was fishing around Thielen Park and had bites every now and then. The only problem was that the fish were too small to hook I just end up pulling the hook out of there mouth since they nibble at my small crappie jig's tails. I did however catch something of decent size but lost it. What i want to know is if there are still good size crappie there and were to find them. Also I enjoyed Thielen park alot and wonder if there are any largemouth bass in the back waters of Coon Lake in Thielen Park also at the rocks and docks at the DNR access.